August Hikes to date (and the month ain't over)

August Hikes to date:

Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/karenseyes/

August hikes to date:

Mount Washington (North Bend, 2010)

Red Mountain (Salmon la Sac via Little Joe Lake)

Red Mountain (Salmon la Sac via Cooper Road)

Nisqually Vista/Moraine Trail (MRNP)

Alta Vista (MRNP)

Stevens Creek/Box Canyon (MRNP)

Sauk Mountain (SR 20)

Indian Bar via Wonderland Trail (almost!) (MRNP)

Dewey Lakes (Naches Loop Trail) (MRNP and Pacific Crest Trail)

Chinook Pass to Bear Gap (Pacific Crest Trail)

I'm still hiking just about every other day ... will do my best to fill in details later. Bear with me!!

Kautz Creek, September 30, 2009

Kautz Creek Trail (Indian Henrys almost!) September 30, 2009

We made a last-minute stab at Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground via Kautz Creek and almost made it.

The first ¾ mile or so parallels mineral-daubed Kautz Creek – floods tore out existing bridges and rearranged the topography dramatically over the last few winters. The first section of the trail no longer resembles the trail as we knew it years ago – it still parallels Kautz Creek and has an unfinished feel to it, as if waiting for the next weather-related calamity.

Alders are growing back in, filling in the blanks, playing their role in settling the landscape. The rock-lined trail near the creek is sandy, almost like a beach.

Kautz Creek looks like a madman’s playground; the old footbridge lays asunder, the water here copper-colored from minerals - boulders, sand, rootballs, uprooted trees tangled together – all attest to violent weather. Gaze long enough upon this scene and you’ll understand there is a very fine line between destruction and creation.

Once we crossed the creek the trail reverts to good trail as it starts to climb toward Indian Henrys. I have hiked the Kautz Creek trail in all seasons over the years, including snowshoe treks to Mount Ararat with The Mountaineers. It wasn’t an easy snowshoe or hike 20 years ago; it’s still a challenge.

With recent rains mushrooms are popping up, breaking through the duff, lighting the dark forest with their luminescent colors. Angel wings peek out from under decaying logs, speckled amanitas glow as if lit from within.

As we gained elevation we encountered bear grass long past bloom; snow had settled in the well of each plant, an indication of more snow to come. We crossed a quiet stream on a footbridge; soon after we came to a viewpoint though there was no view today.

The forest gradually opened up to small meadows; fresh snow had fallen and was melting. Hellebore lay yellow and flattened, the boughs of evergreens were weighted down with melting snow, blueberry shrubs glittering with water soaked us as we passed through.

Mount Ararat soon came into view above crimson, high-angled meadows. The scene was resplendent with fall color beneath a pewter sky broken by a silent stampede of wind-driven clouds.

By now our feet were soaked but we kept hiking, stopping only long enough to eat, drink and change into dry socks. A turnaround time was established; we suspected we wouldn’t have time to get to the patrol cabin at Indian Henrys.

The trail continued with ups and downs, none terribly steep; we hiked through wan meadows where flowers had gone to seed and grasses were bent by snow. The clouds lifted from time to time giving us an odd view of Mount Rainier and peaks we could not identify without consulting the map.

Though turnaround time was rapidly approaching we continued to a rocky pass where we hoped for a view of the patrol cabin but our high point only revealed we had further to go; the patrol cabin would have to wait until next year.

Reluctantly we turned around though found it hard to leave the moody, ever-changing landscape of snow, clouds, light and shadow. Only the promise of a hot thermos of tea waiting in the car enabled us to hike a little faster.

Stats: According to our GPS we hiked 11-1/2 miles and gained about 3,138 feet of elevation, including ups and downs.

Tahoma Creek, Emerald Ridge, September 16, 2009

Tahoma Creek, Emerald Ridge (Wonderland Trail), Mount Rainier National Park
September 16, 2009

We met up with Craig Romano on the West Side Road for this loop on a perfect September day. After parking at the road closure we hiked to the “trailhead” for the Tahoma Creek Trail (about a mile from the gate). The trail starts at a switchback in the road and is marked with a trash barrel (right). As soon as we stepped off the trail we came upon a “trail not maintained” sign but that was not a deterrent - it was more like an invitation to what promised to be an alluring, enigmatic route.

The West Side Road and the Tahoma Creek trail have been so badly damaged by floods in recent years the park had no choice but to “abandon” this trail in principle, at least until funding is available to repair it (if it can be repaired). I’d hiked the trail years ago and it was in bad shape then – the trail is still in bad shape with missing stretches marked with ribbons or cairns. The route ventures out onto ever-changing river bars; hikers with discerning eyes should be able to follow the flagged route, at least until the next series of storms sweep in.

Eventually the trail leaves Tahoma Creek for good and ¼ mile from the Wonderland Trail we ran into a group of SCA volunteers working on the trail. They explained the upper stretch of the trail will link to a higher point on the West Side Road (this will make it easier to access the Wonderland Trail from where the road is gated). As it is now hikers must either hike the West Side Road (or take a mountain bike) or wrestle with the Tahoma Creek Trail.

While the Tahoma Creek trail may be too challenging from some hikers it is fascinating to see the changes nature has wrought - one wonders where the line between creation and destruction can be found.

When we reached the Wonderland Trail we took a short side trip to the Tahoma Creek suspension bridge. Craig walked across, I walked out far enough to get photos. At first glance the bridge looks like something you’d see in “Outside” magazine but the bridge is safe. You can also get to Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground from here - cross Tahoma Creek and continue hiking on the Wonderland Trail.

Instead we followed the Wonderland Trail toward Emerald Ridge and Klapache Park. After a steep stint through forest we were out in the open, contouring above a moraine with views of Saint Andrews Rock and Glacier Island. Craig had gone ahead (Craig is a very fast hiker) and picked a lunch spot; we were glad he finally stopped hiking. As we gasped for breath Craig pointed out Tokaloo Rock above the Puyallup glacier – apparently there is a scramble route.

As we approached Emerald Ridge we enjoyed displays of Western pasqueflower dotting the scrappy meadows below the ridgeline. Once you are on the ridge you can follow a way trail (right) to a viewpoint or continue (left) on the trail along the crest of the ridge. Here the trail is narrow but not intimidating. From the edge look down into the kaleidoscope of colors from moraines and sluggish glaciers; the hues are amazing. Gold-colored rocks vied with purple-hued rubble, all flowing downhill so slowly you cannot see them inching along. At the head of the moraines the Tahoma glacier splits to spill (slowly) over a dark outcropping, the blue-green glacier slashed with crevasses and streaked with grit, looming over the moraine like some monster being born.

Gradually the nature of the terrain changed; subalpine evergreens gradually replacing the boulders perched at the edge of crumbling moraines. Sedges, partridge foot and harebells bordered the still-narrow path, even a flicker of Indian paintbrush now and then. The long, slow gradient of the trail morphed into switchbacks and grew more forested.

We left the Wonderland Trail where the trail crosses the South Puyallup River on a thank-God footbridge, continuing our hike on the South Puyallup River trail. After crossing the river the Wonderland Trail continues to Klapache Park and beyond. For a view of the South Puyallup River the bridge is just a short side trip from the junction.

As we passed South Puyallup Camp we stopped to gaze at andesite columns formed by geologic processes thousands of years ago. These are not a few columns, rather an entire cliff composed of these columns (God’s hardware store, we called it – the tubes of rock reminded us of giant 2x4s). Some of the columns are gracefully curved (Craig likened the formations to spaghetti). The late Harvey Manning referred to them as colonnades in his “50 Hikes, Mount Rainier” guidebook. However your eye interprets these remarkable formations, you will certainly never forget them.

To get back to the West Side Road we climbed to Round Pass (about a 400 foot climb), that additional elevation was nothing to Craig but Silverback and I were happy to get the 400 feet behind us and take a break on the West Side Road near the Marine Memorial before the 3.8-mile hike back to the cars.

We were all dreading the last miles back to the car on the West Side Road but lively conversation made the miles fly, if not our feet.

Our GPS data doesn’t match up – Silverback’s GPS read 12.4 miles whereas Craig’s read closer to 14 miles. Well, it was a lot of miles any way you look at it. The elevation gain (Silverback’s GPS) reads about 3,141 feet of gain.

It was a lot of work but well worth it.

East Side Trail, Mt Rainier (August 30, 2009)

East Side Trail (Mount Rainier National Park), August 30, 2009

The East Side Trail has been frustrating us for some time. We had been unsuccessfully looking for the “upper” trailhead on Highway 123 based on data in mainstream hiking books. On our way to other hikes, we’d looked several times for the unheralded trail but never managed to find it. Yesterday we tried again – and did not find it.

Failing to find the upper trailhead we continued driving and parked at a lower trailhead for the Silver Falls Loop/Laughingwater Creek trail. (For the lower trailhead you can also park at Ohanapecosh and find a link to the Silver Falls Loop/East Side Trail). We opted to park on the highway instead.

The trail drops in a short stretch to a signed junction; hence we followed signs to Silver Falls and followed that trail to the next junction (always following signs for the East Side Trail). Silver Falls is pretty quiet this time of year but it’s always worth a stop – if nothing else to ponder the water-scoured depressions in the cliffs and the pick-up-sticks piles of downed trees that come to rest perhaps forever.

The East Side Trail crosses the Stevens Canyon Road and the main parking area for Grove of the Patriarchs. The East Side Trail continues on the Grove of the Patriarchs Trail then splits off again a short ways before the suspension bridge crosses the Ohanapecosh River (the East Side trail does not cross the river).

The East Side trail begins a long, gentle climb through mostly forest, some of it ancient and spectacular with ferns, moss and thimbleberry. The vine maples are beginning to get a faint tinge of fall color but the real color is yet to come. The trail is lined with vanilla leaf, some of the leaves mottled with age, reminiscent of the hands of octogenarians.

Several streams and tributaries are crossed on a variety of bridges, ranging from recently-rebuilt bridges with a single hand-rail to broken bridges that are still passable and other than presenting the opportunity to fall on your butt, not a danger.

We planned to hike the entire trail to the upper trailhead on Highway 123 (that way, we knew we’d finally find the “hidden” upper trailhead). That would be about a 7-mile hike one-way with roughly 1,000 feet of elevation gain.

Our hike ended at the Ohanapecosh River where a narrow bridge with handrails spanned the chasm where waterfalls roared like lions and the distance between the bridge and the cataracts was a little too narrow for my comfort. The bridge seemed sturdy enough but the supports that held the hand-rails were a little too far apart for my comfort level. Everyone has an Achilles heel when it comes to hiking and mine is crossing on high bridges above water without “significant” railings. I’ve been known to ford rivers rather than cross on high bridges.

In order to “get over” my dread of such contraptions I crossed the bridge twice but there was no getting over it. We had the stamina to finish the hike and hike back down to the car but I simply didn’t have the gumption to hike all the way to the upper trailhead then face another crossing of the bridge again.

Head (mine) bowed in defeat, we retraced our route, not meeting another hiker until the turn-off to Grove of the Patriarchs.

Since we had time to kill we continued on the suspension bridge to the Grove; Silverback had never been to the grove and it was fun to see it through his eyes. We spotted a nurse log there so large that several good-sized trees had taken root and were thriving. The vine maple there is still a young, vigorous green – these trees are an experience that cannot be captured by writers or photographers.

On our way back we were determined to find the upper trailhead for the East Side trail and stopped at several likely spots where an unmarked, obvious trail might be found. No dice. Until we figured out (finally!) that the “upper” East Side Trail is accessed from the plainly signed Owyhigh Lakes trail. Had we stopped at the Owyhigh Lakes trailhead in the first place we would have read the small sign informing hikers that the East Side Trail (and Deer Creek Camp) was .4 miles away. It would also be helpful to hikers if the guidebooks explained that the “upper” East Side trail starts out on the Owyhigh Lake trail on Highway 123.

The Green Trails maps are of little help; (Packwood Lake and Mount Rainier East). The trails in that part of the park are all squished together in a hard-to-read tangle at the edges of the maps.

We’ll be going back this week to “finish” off the East Side Trail.

Huckleberry Creek Trail, Mount Rainier National Park

Huckleberry Creek (Mount Rainier National Park) August 21, 2009

Imagine three guidebook writers on the same hike – now before you think this is a tale of warring egos and such think again. It was a great trip with Alan, Craig and Silverback (Silverback has also taken the plunge into the life of a writer). We had fun from start to finish.

We met up at the Dalles Picnic area for a car shuttle (doing this hike one-way involves a car shuttle). Alan and Craig had already driven their 4WD rigs to the lower trailhead on Forest Service Road No. 73 (the last stretch of this 6-mile or so road is rough). When Alan and Craig joined us the four of us went up to Sunrise in Silverback’s car (not a 4WD).

After a short stint on the Sourdough Trail we descended into Huckleberry Basin on the Huckleberry Mountain trail (the trail is signed). Short switchbacks with breathtaking views got us off to a pleasant start –how many times I had peered down into the barrens and meadows below Sourdough, wondering what it would be like down there.

It’s fascinating to hike through a variety of terrain and this hike is no exception. After a scenic stint through the remains of a moraine interspersed with meadows we stopped for an early lunch as biting bugs at Forest Lake seemed a real possibility.

A few flowers are still in bloom in the meadows – namely monkey flowers, yarrow and asters. Lupine has already mostly gone to seed. Gentians were the dominant flower in the meadows – I think these lantern-shaped flowers are brilliant blue because they herald the end of summer.

It is always heartbreaking (for me) to leave the high country behind but the forest and the promise of a seldom-hiked trail also had a strong appeal. After dropping about 1,100 feet we reached Forest Lake, a campsite on the edge of heaven where forest, meadows and high country overlap. There are two designated campsites at the lake (not occupied) and no bugs.

From the lake we continued our descent into deeper forest, crossing Huckleberry Creek several times on footbridges. The forest was a mix of yellow cedars (not a true cedar tree – this, we learned from Craig who has a background in forestry), Douglas firs, Alaska cedars, vine-maple with an under-story of huckleberry/blueberry shrubs, Devils Club (taller than we could reach), Canadian dogwood (a few still blooming), ferns (oak, deer, bracken, sword ferns).

The trees grew larger the further we descended; becoming a Hansel and Gretel trail as the trail wound through the forest. In addition to Huckleberry Creek we crossed Prospector, Josephine Creeks and Lost Creek (in that order). None of the crossings were difficult.
The trail was easy to follow in its entirety with only one short stretch where route finding with our boots was required (the trail was covered with vegetation). We stopped to admire several gargantuan evergreens but found the dappled light in the forest a challenge for photography.

Just inside the border of the park we came upon an old patrol cabin; locked and shuttered for good. An old trail register (not used in a very long time) was on the front porch, fading signs with rules and regulations within the park were still apparent, including one that dated back to the 1940s. Here we also found a boundary sign and a benchmark dating back to 1900.

From the boundary it was about a mile back to FS Road 73, the trail easy to follow. However, there is no longer a trailhead sign for Huckleberry Creek. We believe it is probably just as well, it is undoubtedly the parks intent to keep it from becoming a party place (though the nature of the terrain would keep most evil-doers out).

Alan’s faithful rig was waiting at the trailhead; we all piled in and headed back to the Dalles Campground where our pleasant adventure came to an end. Craig faced a long drive so headed home; Alan ferried us back to Sunrise to our car - only a few cars remained late in the day. It was so cold at Sunrise that we put on jackets, taking only a few photos before driving back home. It felt like fall was well on its way.

Stats: Elevation loss (about 3,834 feet) in about 10.1 miles (according to our altimeter).

Note: This is a steep, downhill trail, not recommended for those with bad knees. Forest Road 73 is not recommended for passenger cars. Most hikers will be happier hiking from Sunrise to Forest Lake, then climbing back to Sunrise (that would mean a reasonable elevation gain of about 1,100 feet).

Skyscraper Pass, Mount Rainier National Park

SKYSCRAPER PASS (WONDERLAND TRAIL, Mount Rainier National Park)

We like trails with solitude but do make exception for trails at Sunrise, Skyscraper Pass (and peak) being one of them. The hike starts out on the Sourdough Ridge trail where we turned left, following the ridgeline. After passing the junction for the Huckleberry Creek trail (right) the river of hikers began to thin out as the trail crossed a talus – just past Frozen Lake we came to a 5-way junction, where many casual hikers call it a day. Here we turned onto the Wonderland Trail, following signs for the Wonderland Trail and Berkeley Park.
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From the 5-way junction near Frozen Lake the trail begins dropping to a plateau where Skyscraper Peak comes into view (be glad Skyscraper Peak is closer than it looks). As we continued marmots whistled, warning of our presence. At the next junction some hikers turned off toward Berkeley Park (right) - we continued on the Wonderland Trail (left).

Most flowers have passed their prime though there were still some blooming in the meadows - asters, magenta paintbrush, yarrow, lousewort, lupine and bistort. There is a bronze tint to the meadows, an indication that autumn is not far off. We also saw several marmots dashing about (or lazing) between the Wonderland Trail junction and Skyscraper Pass.

It’s about 1,000 feet of gain to Skyscraper Pass at 6,786 feet. The Wonderland Trail continues, descending to Mystic Lake (alas, too far for a day hike). We had considered dropping from the pass to Granite Creek Camp on the Wonderland Trail but backpackers we talked to say the trail was mostly in forest until Mystic Lake.

We love forest hikes but on a clear day at Sunrise there was no dithering about where to go. From the pass a boot path climbs to Skyscraper Peak – our revised goal for the day. The peak is only about 300 feet above the pass.

Skyscraper Peak is a minor summit but with 360-degree views and well worth the effort to get there. From the ragged summit directly below is the silver squiggle of the White River winding through the valley and views down to the lush green of Berkeley Park. Take a map to identify other peaks and places - need I mention that there are also great views of Mount Rainier?

The trail to the summit is rocky and somewhat exposed; if you don’t like heights you can always stop shy of the summit – the views are almost as good. The peak is a jumble of volcanic rocks, many serve as great places to settle and bask.

Though most flowers will soon fade, don’t rule out this hike yet. Gentians are popping up in the meadows and marmots are busy dashing about. Late summer and early fall are also an excellent time to visit for fall color though with chillier temperatures you may want to add an extra layer of clothing or two in your pack.

Getting to the trailhead: From Enumclaw go east on Highway 410 to the White River Entrance of Mount Rainier National Park and continue 14 miles to Sunrise, elevation 6,400 feet. Trail. Allow about 2.5 hours drive time from Seattle.

Trail data: It is about 8 miles round-trip to Skyscraper Pass with about 1,200 feet of elevation gain including ups and downs. Skyscraper Peak is about 8 miles round trip with 1,600 feet (total) elevation gain. The map is Green Trails No. 270 Mount Rainier East.

For more details on fees, rules and regulations contact Mount Rainer National Park at 360-569-2211 or visit their website at www.nps.gov/mora

Laughingwater Creek trail, Mount Rainier

LAUGHINGWATER CREEK (NOT MUCH TO LAUGH ABOUT) July 26, 2009

My first hike on this 6-mile trail to Three Lakes via the Laughingwater Creek trail was absolutely gorgeous. It was a comfortable day in early summer with many lowland flowers in bloom. While there were no dramatic views we enjoyed the ferns, moss, wildflowers, rivulets and the old growth trees. Most memorable were the Alaska cedars – many of them giants. That first hike was about three years ago.

This time I was leading a Conditioning Hike Series for The Mountaineers. The hikers who signed up for the hike were part of a CHS weekend campout at Soda Springs Campground off SR 410 so the plan was to meet at Cayuse Pass at a designated time.

When we got to Cayuse Pass our three hikers were there; a little tired from hikes the previous day (Mount Aix, Goat Peak) but more than willing to tackle another trail.

As for the weather – it was the beginning of what could become a record-breaking hot-spell. Fortunately, most of the hike was in shady, ancient forest.

We set out on the trail, stopping to admire saprophytes, bead-lily, Canadian dogwood (bunchberry) and columbine. We also stopped for several water/snack breaks – an absolute necessity on such a hot day.

By the time we reached Three Lakes and the patrol cabin we were ready for lunch. Sadly, there was no one at the Patrol Cabin to let us seek refuge from the swarms of mosquitoes so lunch was short. After lunch we looked around the lakes (two are nestled side-by-side, connected by a narrow strip of land) – the third lake is a little further along the trail. The third lake provides a view of higher country but we didn’t linger; once again, the bugs drove us away from the water.

We hiked down as quickly as we could; it was a relief to get back to the car. The hike is 12 miles round trip with about 2,700 feet of elevation gain. If we’d had more time and energy we could have hiked another 1-1/2 miles to the PCT. There are also a couple of abandoned trails near Three Lakes we’d like to explore but given the heat, no one had the energy.

This is a trail for hikers seeking solitude and the peace of ancient forest. The lakes are pretty but for backpacking we suggest waiting until September when the bugs are gone. This would make a nice fall hike; plenty of vine maple to brighten the dark forest in September/October.

Our adventure was not over. As we drove back toward SR 410 on Highway 123 we braked to a stop. Here was a dead car in the road and the smell of gasoline in the air. We stopped to offer help (though what we could have done is doubtful other than a telephone call). It was two young guys – they said they thought their gas tank had ruptured. We offered the use of a cell phone but they said a friend was on the way to assist. It wasn’t a good place for a car to die; right on a curve on a two-way road. We drove up to Chinook Pass, found the park rangers and alerted them of the situation. They said they would get help ASAP.

Silverback and I stopped at McDonalds for a cold drink before the hot drive back to Seattle. Then it was our turn for trouble. The car wouldn’t start. It wouldn’t go into reverse or into neutral. We had parked with the car facing the curb so we were unable to move forward as well. Had to call Triple AAA for a tow truck – they said it might be a 3-1/2 hour wait. In the heat, that was Hellish news to ponder. About an hour and a half later the tow truck arrived; he looked at the car, used the winch to get it off the curb and drove it around the lot. It sounded like something was dragging on the ground and it STILL wouldn’t go into reverse. So we ended up riding with the tow truck driver (and a dead car) back to Seattle. The good news is that we didn’t have to take one of the hikers back to Seattle (she needed a ride back to Seattle) – thankfully, she rode back with one of the other hikers. She wouldn’t have enjoyed standing around the parking lot at McDonalds in the heat, I’m sure.

The news is grim – about a $3,100 repairs to the car. The transmission went out (on a car with less than 49,000 miles no less!!).

Laughingwater Creek is a nice hike but there sure wasn’t much laughter at the end of the day.

Skyline Trail, Paradise, Mount Rainier (July 23, 2009)

Skyline Trail, Golden Gate Trail (Paradise), July 23, 2009

This hike to Paradise was a relief after such a hot hike the day before. The plan was to hike the Skyline Trail to Panorama Point and hike back to Paradise via the Lower Skyline Trail.

Though Paradise was shrouded in fog the flowers were abloom and the temperatures cool and comfortable for hiking. I’ve been to Paradise many times but I have never seen as many flowers as we saw on Thursday. Though some visitors might be disappointed to find Paradise fogged in the fog enhanced the brilliance of the flowers; the flowers are at their peak.

At lower elevations we saw pink heather, Indian paintbrush, scads of avalanche lilies nestled in the greenest meadows one could imagine. Bonsai-like evergreens stood out as the mist shifted around them, flowers at their feet.

Clumps of hikers passed to and fro; ranging from elders to families with teens and young children. Everyone we saw – no matter how old, how young - had fallen under the spell of The Mountain, in awe of the splendor all around. Everywhere you looked there was something to photograph. In fact, it’d be impossible to take a bad photograph in such a setting.

As we gained elevation the trail become more exposed and rockier with more snowfields to cross. All routes are easy to follow with wands where needed. No ice axes needed.
The fog cleared as we approached Panorama Point – Rainier materialized slowly through the mist, the glaciers on the mountain so close and sharp you could almost cut your hands on them. The fog swirled back teasingly, only to vanish again then reappear.

There was more than Mount Rainier to see. The Tatoosh range began to poke through the cloud cover and on a steep snow bank we watched students practice the fine arts of using an ice axe. Once past Panorama Point it became a moonwalk along the rocky trail, still with a bit of snow here and there.

Just past Panorama Point a sign directed hikers to hike the Upper Skyline Trail back to Paradise. The Lower Skyline Trail was closed due to snow and ice. The Upper Skyline trail was new to us and enjoyable with another perspective of Mount Rainier and more views of the Tatoosh peaks as the fog dissipated.

We paused at the junction for the Golden Gate trail, a shorter way back to Paradise than the Lower Skyline Trail. We opted for the Golden Gate - that saved us a mile.

The fog returned when we reached the first clump of subalpine trees; lupine blazed beside the trail with magenta paintbrush, bistort, Jacobs ladder, lousewort, valerian and cinquefoil. A marmot dashed across the trail below; moving too fast for a photo.

Soon we were back in the world of avalanche lilies and green meadows. We crossed Myrtle Creek on a bridge then dropped down to a viewpoint of Myrtle Falls before stepping off the trail into the parking lot, slightly dazed as if we had just awakened from a dream.

Getting to the trailhead: Drive to Paradise from the Nisqually entrance of Mount Rainier National Park and park on the Valley Road (parking is limited to two hours in the upper lot except for overnight guests). Find the trail next to the climber’s lodge. The trails at Paradise are all well signed.

Berkeley Park via Sunrise, July 10, 2009

Sunrise to Berkeley Camp (Mount Rainier National Park)

This is an upside-down hike. Other than a gentle ascent along the Sourdough Ridge trail out of Sunrise the rest of the hike is downhill. The trail is hard on the knees but easy on the soul.

We enjoyed the drive from Enumclaw to the White River entrance of the park, stopping at Sunrise Point for views of Mount Adams (south), Mount Stuart and Glacier Peak to the north plus Cowlitz Chimneys and other prominent features of the park. Between Sunrise Point and Sunrise the road was bordered with lupine, Indian paintbrush and buttercups.

It being a weekday there was plenty of room for parking; soon we were on the trail. We headed up to Sourdough Ridge, turning left (west). A few minor snow patches remained on the trail; all easily negotiated. We puzzled over the “start” of the Huckleberry Creek trail (it looked more like a scramble than trail) and stopped several times for photos on our way to the 5-way junction at Frozen Lake.

Just past Frozen Lake snow patches cover the trail in places; some of them pink. If you have never encountered watermelon-colored snow before, it is a natural phenomenon caused by algae, rest assured you are not hallucinating. The route is wanded across larger snow patches but the snow is melting quickly.

At higher elevations the plants are small; small versions of lupine and Indian paintbrush hug the earth. Trees that look “young” are actually ancient; it takes them a long time to grow in this harsh environment. The white and pink heather may look tough but is extremely fragile. A single boot-print can kill it - it takes years to grow a small pot of heather in a similar environment.

As the trail loses elevation the tundra-like barrens of Sunrise are replaced by glowing meadows. More flowers appear; magenta paintbrush, Jacobs ladder, lupine and buttercups appear. Western pasqueflower is prevalent at most elevations.

The meadows are especially lush near Lodi Creek in Berkeley Park; glacier lilies carpet the meadows like fallen stars. The moss-bordered creek is an exquisite shade of blue-green; the moss varying shades of green ranging from hunter green to lime. Clumps of monkey flowers, not yet in bloom, sit atop small islands in the stream. Marmots run about the meadows; on marmot-errands. It is always a joy to see or hear them. When I hear the first marmot whistle of summer I feel that all is right with the world.

As we approached Berkeley Camp avalanche lilies predominated; it’s best just to sit and experience such exquisite beauty. Neither words nor cameras can do them justice; both fail to capture the sweetness of Lodi creek and surrounding meadows. Perhaps such places cannot be captured because getting to them is part of the experience. You cannot take them home with you.

Past Berkeley Camp significant snow patches covered the trail; we turned around shortly thereafter, retracing our route back to Sunrise.

Paradise River Trail, Mount Rainier, July 8, 2009

Paradise River Trail – July 8, 2009 (Mount Rainier National Park)

This is a 6.4-mile trail that makes an interesting one-way hike between Longmire and Paradise. You’ll need two cars to do this as a one-way hike – you can also make use of the shuttle operated by the park. The shuttle stops at Longmire/Paradise several times a day. Visit the park website for more details on the shuttle. Right now parking is limited at the upper Paradise parking lot; weekends are the worst, of course. There is a 2-hour parking limit in the upper lot but overflow parking is allowed along the Valley Road; on a weekday there was plenty of space to park.

If you’ve got bad knees – you might want to start from the bottom and work your way to Paradise. Conversely, if you are out of shape, you might want to trickle down from top to bottom; your choice. But wait – you don’t even have to do the whole hike. There are other access points to the trail including Cougar Rock and Narada Falls. Hike as little – or as much as you like.

It felt like winter when we arrived at Paradise. Brrrr! There was still snow at Paradise and low-cloud cover. But – avalanche lilies, glacier lilies and pink heather are blooming where snow has melted; lupine, penstemon and beargrass is popping out all along the Nisqually Paradise Road.

We stopped at the Visitor Information Center at the new Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center to get “directions” to the trailhead as the road where the trail starts was bordered with melting snowdrifts. The markers have been taken down over the winter (so snow plows don’t break them) but with guidance from an employee at the Visitor Center we were able to find the trailhead. You can pick up the trail on the Valley Road – it starts where the trees end on the downhill side of the road. There is a small stone stairway; as of yesterday the upper stretch was mostly snow-covered but there were tracks in the snow and it was easy to follow the trail down to where it first crosses the road.

Even along the upper stretch meadows and babbling streams are replacing the snow; this was a lovely stretch with scads of glacier lilies and avalanche lilies. We almost felt the meadows were holding their breath; waiting for summer to melt the rest of the snow.

We were the only hikers on the trail until we dropped down to Narada Falls; there we met a few hikers/tourists who had parked at the roadside trailhead and walked in for the tumultuous view. As always, Narada Falls is a wonder to behold and as always, a challenge to photograph with digital cameras – we try anyway.

Between Narada Falls and Cougar Rock we saw only a few other hikers; most of them closer to Cougar Rock than Narada Falls. Avalanche and glacier lilies followed us all the way down from Paradise – it was only past Narada Falls that we lost them. There was a mix of summer/spring flowers in this middle section; even a trillium or two and a few marsh marigolds near boggy areas. There are also several crossings of the river on jerrybuilt bridges; none of them are difficult to cross. It is obvious that some of these temporary bridges will soon be replaced; new bridges are going in, at various stages of completion.

We stopped at Madcap Falls (the waterfall is not signed, it is just above Carter Falls) where there is a view from a sturdy handrail. It pales in significance to Narada Falls but is still worth a stop. Carter Falls is a little mightier but it’s hard to get a look as the waterfall is partially hidden by evergreens. Do stay behind the guardrails; venturing off trail for a better look at both of these falls could be dangerous.

From Carter Falls the trail descends to Cougar Rock and a crossing of the Nisqually River on a footbridge with a handrail.

The last stretch of the trail is quiet – from Cougar Rock to Longmire the trail is in old-growth forest with stately trees, ferns, moss, salal, Oregon grape and few flowers. It is a cool, shady place and an easy walk for visitors from Longmire. We did find several clumps of pinesap emerging from the thick, forest duff near Longmire. No Indian pipe was seen – apparently Indian pipe has become rare.

At Longmire we took the second car back to Paradise for the shuttle. Before we left we visited the new Paradise Visitor Center (the Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center) and were impressed. It certainly is a beautiful structure compared to the old Visitor Center; unlike the old visitor center this one seems to blend in with the landscape. The interior is a showpiece with wood paneling, a gift shop and elaborate interpretive displays. We’d intended to stop for 5-10 minutes; we spent an hour.

Starting from Paradise there is an elevation loss of 2,700 feet. Conversely, a climb of 2,700 feet or so if you go from bottom to top.

Mount Rainier Mini-hikes, June 17, 2009

Since my friend Lola and I are co-leading a Mountaineer hike to Ranger Peak in the South Cascades we made the Ranger Creek trail our first stop. The trailhead is not well-signed or easily spotted from the road but is located between milepost 54 and the Buck Creek Recreation Area on SR 410 heading east from Enumclaw (trail is on the left). This trailhead also provides access to the White River trail and the Deep Creek trail further east (the main trailhead for Deep Creek begins just off the Corral Pass Road about a mile from SR 410). However, after stopping at the White River ranger station in Enumclaw we learned (and saw the photographs) that much of the Deep Creek trail has been destroyed and not a high priority on their list of trails needing repair.

A short path leads uphill to a signed junction to the White River Trail where the hike to Ranger Peak begins. In about 1/4 mile the Ranger Peak trail takes off to the left - the White River trail continues straight, crosses Ranger Creek and continues to the junction for the Deep Creek trail where the trail ends (Corral Pass Road). We hiked about 1.5 miles of the Ranger Creek trail - and the trail is in good condition. A local descending the trail said the trail was fine ahead - no major problems as far as he got before he turned around at the snowline.

From there we drove to Chinook Pass to see how Tipsoo Lake was faring. It is still mostly frozen over and foggy enough we could barely see the lake. We didn't linger.

Back on 410 we turned around, turning off at Cayuse Pass onto Highway 123 for a hike to Silver Falls. Rather than drive to Ohanepecosh campground (another access to the trail) we stopped short of it and parked at an unobtrusive trailhead (a wide area beside the highway) . The trail is well signed with other connections including Laughingwater Creek and the East Side Trail. We followed the signs to Silver Falls.

It had been a while since my last visit - I knew that the trail had been damaged from previous storms but there is a bridge over the falls (the trail was closed at one point). I wish I could provide more information on previous damage but I'd rather not err so will leave that to readers to ferret out if so inclined.

The view of Silver Falls is dramatic but nearly impossible to photograph. There's a good reason I'm not showing photos of the waterfall. In fact, I have decided to abandon waterfall photography altogether until I develop the patience to work with a tripod. Even with a tripod, it is difficult to photograph such waterfalls - waterfalls such as Silver Falls often plunge through dark, narrow gorges and so you have the problem with light. Black rocks, a blur of white water. Still, it is enough just to sit, gaze and listen to the thunder of water.

We continued past the waterfall - there are side trails that lead to other overlooks (please be cautious), then hiked to Grove of the Patriarchs (the junction is well signed). The grove is about 0.9 miles from Silver Falls.

You can also get to the "official" trailhead (and facilities) for Trail of the Patriarchs by driving a little further on Highway 123 to the Stevens Canyon entrance to the park - continue 0.2 miles to where the road is gated. Be sure you don't block the road as the road is undergoing repairs. The Stevens Canyon road is closed will be open later this summer.

The Grove of the Patriarchs is a popular trail - go mid-week if you can or get an early start. What is spectacular about this trail is not only the magnificence of the old-growth cedars and Douglas firs but the silence of the forest. Regardless of your religious background it feels sacrilegious to speak above a whisper. Right now the leaves of the vine maple trees are young and green, a sweet contrast to the aged, furrowed bark of these conifer giants.

After a short stretch beside the Ohanapecosh River on the trail cross the river on a suspension bridge - a sign recommends crossing one at a time. We hope that visitors will heed this sign. While the bridge is not high above the river, a tumble into the river wouldn't be fun as the river is swift. After the river crossing you can make a loop on a boardwalk that winds through the ancient grove. Benches are provided at intervals where one can just sit and ponder the meaning of Time. These trees were here hundreds of years before us and they will be there hundreds of years after us but for natural processes - yet even these trees will eventually be toppled by Time.

We retraced our steps back to the car then drove a short distance to Ohanapecosh Campground (open), Interpretive Center (open) and Ranger Station. We hiked the Hot Springs Nature Trail, site of Ohanapecosh Hot Springs and long-gone cabins from its heyday as a resort; back in the early to mid-1900s visitors journeyed there for the curative waters of the springs. Today the springs are just a seep and though signs warn you not to drink the water, after taking a look at the seeps, you surely wouldn't want to. The Nature Trail is signed and begins from the Interpretive Center.

Reluctantly we retraced our route back to Seattle. Though we toyed with the idea of making a long loop with the car via US 12 and SR 7, it would have been a very long drive.

Mount Rainier (Spring Opening Updates)

Mount Rainier National Park (Spring Opening Dates)

State Route 123 and State Route 410 (north-south) opens to the public at noon on May 12.

State Route 410 over Chinook Pass is still closed.

Road repairs continue on the Nisqually-Paradise Road – completion date mid-August. In the meantime the road is open to traffic but visitors should expect 20-minute delays.

The Stevens Canyon Road will be closed until extensive damage is repaired (mid-August). However, visitors coming from the west (on Stevens Canyon Road) will be able to access areas as far as Backbone Ridge Overlook and from the east to Grove of the Patriarchs (about 2 miles from State Route 123). Those sections of the Stevens Canyon Road are scheduled to open May 22 (noon). Visitors will not be able to travel between the west and east sides of the park until repair work is completed on the Stevens Canyon Road (mid-August).

The Sunrise Road will open Friday, June 26.

The Mowich Lake Road will open July 3, (noon).

The Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center at Paradise is open daily from 10-5 pm weekdays and 10-6 pm on weekends. The Paradise Inn is scheduled to reopen at noon, on May 15. The National Park Inn (Longmire) is open year-round.

Cougar Rock Campground has a tentative opening date of Friday, May 22 (the campground is snowbound, campsites are still snow-covered).

White River Campground opens June 26 (noon).

Ohanapecosh Campground (Loops A, B and C) opens May 22.

Sunrise Visitor Center/Sunrise Lodge opens July 3.

For additional information/conditions visit the park’s web page at www.nps.gov/mora or for recorded information call 360-569-2211.

SOME DATES MAY STILL BE TENTATIVE DUE TO ROAD CONDITIONS, SNOW, WEATHER