Eagle Peak Saddle, November 4, 2009

Eagle Peak Saddle - November 4, 2009

We felt like we’d got away with something. Pulling off a last-minute high elevation hike without significant snow or foul weather. Last weeks hike to Rampart Ridge was snowy and icy. Today’s hike to Eagle Peak Saddle was like a return to early fall.

To get to the Eagle Peak trailhead park at Longmire, then walk through the parks administration buildings and cross the Nisqually River on a solid bridge. The trailhead can be found just past the bridge on the left-hand side. There’s also a great view of Mount Rainier from the bridge.

The hike starts off in forest with salal, deer ferns and old growth trees; the trail is in good condition though there is one fallen tree to maneuver over or around. At the end of the switchbacks spur trails lead to an un-named tributary that flows into the river. We checked some of these out but the creek is hard to photograph, at least with our digital cameras.

The trail seldom stops climbing until it gets to Eagle Peak Saddle. We set our pace accordingly, what I call my “forever” pace. As we gained elevation the forest became more expansive and it brought back memories of previous visits, including a snowshoe trip on a cold, foggy day a few years ago. I also remembered a summer visit when the meadows below the saddle were a riot of wildflower displays. Mostly, I’ve hiked here alone – it is a good trail for solitude.

The climb is relentless and offers few level stretches to hikers but it’s a small price to pay for the rewards ahead. The forested, secluded trail does not attract many hikers – there are easier trails to get to for views but this trail can be hiked or snowshoed year-round. It’s a good place to go in winter when the road is gated at Longmire and safe as a snowshoe trip, at least for the first 3-1/2 miles.

After crossing the nameless stream on a footbridge the trail levels out for a bit before it resumes its climb. The trees thin out and a rocky peak comes into view above tawny meadows with dabs of fall color here and there. The trail contours below a talus slope then heads uphill again into another forested stretch.

There we ran into a little bit of snow but the snow was soft and didn’t obscure the trail. As the trail emerged from the last stand of trees short, steep switchbacks made quick work of the climb to Eagle Peak Saddle. Here a sign warns hikers they have gone far enough. I almost forgot to mention the views en route to the saddle – once we left the trees we enjoyed views of Mount Adams and Mount Saint Helens, too far away to photograph.

The last stretch of the trail was snow-free; we were glad to get to the saddle without having to negotiate steep snow.

In winter the first 3-1/2 miles of the trail offer a safe snowshoe trip. With snow the summer route becomes hazardous; only experienced hikers with avalanche awareness and winter-travel skills should venture beyond the last forested stretch. Even those experienced in the arts of winter-travel take a different route to get to the saddle, avoiding the open, exposed slopes where danger of avalanche is moderate to high.

As you approach the saddle on the last of the switchbacks Eagle Peak is to the left. There a climber’s path leads to the summit; I tried it once but turned around short of the summit. I was alone and getting to the summit was beyond my comfort level. Besides the view of Mount Rainier and the Tatoosh peaks from the saddle are eye-candy enough for anyone. Bring the map to identify other peaks in the region.

On our way down from the saddle we stopped for another break at the end of the switchbacks for one last view of Mount Adams, Mount Saint Helens and the dark surrounding foothills. As we approached Longmire we spotted a raccoon near the administration buildings, our only “wildlife” sighting of the day.

I bet it’s snowing like Hell up there today.

Rampart Ridge Trail, October 27, 2009

Rampart Ridge Loop (Mount Rainier National Park) October 28, 2009


These hikes at Mount Rainier National Park were only a week apart but as different as night from day. Rampart Ridge felt like a winter hike, Eagle Peak Saddle (to follow) a fall hike.

Hikers who hike year round sometimes refer to late fall/early winter hikes as “snowline probers”. Would we need snowshoes on Rampart Ridge or not? Where was the snowline? The snowline in November rises and falls on a daily basis; no two days in November are alike. Sometimes the only way to find out is to head for the trailhead. We gambled we wouldn’t need snowshoes for Rampart Ridge at Mount Rainier and left them behind.

As it turned out snowshoes were not needed but Yak Trax sure would have come in handy. Fresh snow had fallen but we were not expecting ice.

To find the trail park at Longmire and cross the Nisqually Paradise road to “Trail of the Shadows”, a popular nature trail where this hike begins. We hiked clockwise hoping the gray skies would clear – it’s about a 2-mile climb to the ridge-crest and you’re better off hiking toward Mount Rainier rather than away from it. Turn left and start out on the nature trail. In a few paces you’ll come to a bridge; there was no snow on the bridge but the trail was plastered with fallen leaves, the wooden bridge icy and slick.

The Rampart Ridge trail is well signed and starts on the uphill side of the nature trail. The trail begins to climb immediately at a moderate grade through forest and is in good shape except for icy patches here and there. The iciest patches are along the lower elevations of the trail. Long, lazy switchbacks through the forest lead to an opening in the trees where there is a good view of the Nisqually River.

Signs of fall are just about gone; the oak ferns and bracken are pale, the vanilla leaf thin and mottled, mushrooms have emerged, some of them dusted with snow, others shattered and lying in pieces beside the trail. The huckleberry bushes that hung heavy with fruit not so long ago have lost most of their leaves.

As we climbed fresh snow replaced the ice and at about 4,044 feet we reached a junction where a spur descends to an overlook of Longmire, foothills and the Nisqually River.
After enjoying the view we continued on the main trail to a high point (4,093 feet). The trail is level for a half-mile or so through the forest; here, the snow was 2-3 inches deep.

This is a pretty trail and we delighted in the ice-sheathed branches of shrubs and snow-dusted evergreens, the subdued tones of shrubs and fallen leaves. When we stopped for a break we were immediately surrounded by gray jays (camp-robbers); it is just about impossible not to be delighted with these birds, they are plucky and seem optimistic as they dart about in their endless quest for food. In logging camps they hung around mess-halls, hence camp-robbers. They eat insects, seeds and berries; they are also meat-eaters (better keep an eye on your lunch!).

As the trail levels off there is a good view of Mount Rainier on a clear day but we were denied the view. Given the overcast it was hard to tell the snowy mountain from the white sky. The trail reaches a junction for the Wonderland Trail at 3,912 feet; here we turned right to continue the loop. You’d turn left if you were bound for Indian Henrys Hunting Ground (5 miles further). We turned right again at the next junction where another trail continues to Van Trump Park and Mildred Point.

The Wonderland trail descended toward Longmire; as we descended the snow disappeared and we were on bare dirt for the rest of the hike. We noticed and stopped to admire several grand old-growth conifers on the way. We did slip and slide on a stretch of icy puncheon before coming out on the Nisqually-Paradise road. The trail crosses the road, enters the forest and in less than ¼ of a mile comes out again at Longmire.

We’d had enough of hiking in the cold but weren’t ready to leave Mount Rainier so extended our visit by driving to Christine Falls an attraction we’d driven by many times without stopping (you can see the waterfall from the road). However, to get the best view of the waterfall park on the far side of the stone bridge where a short path descends to a better view of the waterfall, framed by the graceful bridge.

Stats: 4.6 miles round trip, about 1,800 feet of elevation gain.

West Boundary Trail, August 9, 2009

West Boundary Trail (Mount Rainier National Park)

Hiking abandoned trails is a little bit like listening to jazz - you know where the trail begins but you never know where it will take you.

The Boundary Trail is one of our favorite hidden trails within/near Mount Rainier National Park. It is believed that most of the Boundary Trail was built during the Civilian Conservation Corps era; most of the trail was removed from the parks maintenance list in the early 1970s. The trail once circumnavigated the boundary of the park. A few stretches remain and are still somewhat user-friendly including a section near the Carbon River entrance and another near the Nisqually entrance. Some maintenance continues on those trails – don’t attempt these trails unless you have route-finding skills and equipment.

We’d hiked the trail from the Carbon River entrance to Alki Crest 5-6 years ago, getting as far as Tolmie Creek (no, we don’t know why it is called Alki Crest). We didn’t know how far we’d get today but conditions were ideal for a steep hike in the forest: cool and cloudy.

The boundary trail starts from the nature trail just on the other side of a footbridge (assuming you are hiking the nature trail clockwise); it’s hard to miss. The “abandoned trail” sign was missing but again if you are looking for the trail, you won’t have any trouble spotting it. Though steep, the first part of the trail is as good as established trails inside the park, at least initially. We also spotted 3-4 old signs for the Boundary Trail along the way.

The trail is mostly in old-growth forest, ideal conditions for saprophytes such as coralroot and Indian pipe. We don’t see as much Indian pipe as we used to so we were glad to come across some at the end of a switchback. We also saw vanilla leaf, a variety of ferns and moss (a little on the dry side), Devil’s club with spikes of red berries and lots of thimbleberry past its prime. We found a few blueberries off-trail; always good to find these. Shelf fungus juts out from snags peppered with woodpecker holes and from fallen/downed trees beside the trail.

At one point the trail crosses a steep slope where a washout occurred; a path of rubble descends all the way to the Carbon River Road. It would truly have been a sight to witness from a safe vantage when this occurred. A little further there is a split in the trail at a cut log – turn left.

At about 3,200 feet we crossed a stream; not a problem in August. This is a pretty spot to linger a while and take a break, especially on a hot day. Beyond the stream the trail is a little rockier but still easy to follow and in surprisingly good shape even where maintenance ends.

At another point we skirted a boulder field (left); it was so foggy we could barely see the shapes of the rocks. Here the hellebore was almost tall and Corydalis covered parts of the trail; we sought the trail with our feet. It was moist enough from fog and drizzle that we got soaked going through the Corydalis; we’re grateful for our quick-dry pants.

Once past this spot the trail was easy to follow; near the crest we encountered markers on the trees, some with numbers but don’t know what purpose those serve or have served in the past.

The trail levels out briefly at Alki Crest, a forested pass without views. Nevertheless, this is a good turnaround and there are fallen trees that serve as places to settle for a while before turning around or continuing. We elected to turn around as we were short on time and knew it would take us almost as long to get down as it did to climb to the crest.

On the previous visit we did get go down the other side of the “crest” and got as far as Tolmie Creek. The crossing was tricky and from the creek the trail was marginal at best, difficult to follow. It is about a 1,200-foot descent from the crest to the creek.

There is also a route of sorts to Florence Peak from the Boundary Trail but I’ve only done it on snowshoes and it was a long time ago. I don’t know whether or not there is a “trail”. Some branches of The Mountaineers lead Florence Peak as a winter scramble.

Stats: 6 miles round trip, a little under 3,000 feet gain.

Lakes Trail, Paradise

Lakes Trail, Paradise (August 5, 2009)

Wow! What a tangle of trails at Paradise! A first-time hiker may find the trail signs more confusing than helpful, especially when you have an older map that doesn’t correspond to the trail system depicted on hand-outs, trail maps from the Visitor Center. Guess you can choose between following your nose, following one of the maps or following the signs. That’s all OK as long as the weather is clear. If you’re not sure where you are, don’t be afraid to ask or get counsel from one of the knowledgeable volunteers at the Visitor Center.

Our goal was to hike the Lakes Trail starting at Paradise, stop at Reflection Lakes, head up to Mazama Ridge then hike back down to Paradise on the lower Skyline Trail, about a 5-6 mile jaunt.

We got off to a bad start. Perhaps I should rephrase that to say that I got off to a bad start. My friend, Lola, was well equipped for this hike. As for me, I didn’t notice until we got to the trailhead that I’d packed Silverback’s boots rather than my own. Silverback is a big fellow and no way could I wear his boots.

Fortunately, Lola had an extra pair of trail runners so I was able to get into those. Still not an ideal situation as I have a tendency to sprain my ankles without mountaineering boots, even on easy trails.

We started out adventure on the Paradise River trail (signed Lakes Trail, Narada Falls). The last time I was on this trail (only weeks ago) there was snow and snow glacier lilies and avalanche lilies were competing for open space. Today the trail was lined with asters, pearly everlasting, rosy spirea and lupine. We quickly dropped down to the first junction – turning left toward Reflection Lakes (it’s hard to go the wrong way at this junction).

The Lakes trail crossed the Paradise Valley road a couple of times before coming out near another trailhead (accessible by car). Here we paused at the lakes, aptly named – though the Mountain was hazy the reflection cast by the peak into the lakes was bold and sharp, the lakes framed by a fringe of fireweed. Later in the season the lakes will be framed with the bold colors of fall.

We hiked along the road a short way, picking up the trail again as it climbs toward Faraway Rock. Ordinarily, I would have thought nothing of climbing to Faraway Rock but without my sturdy boots I was tense on the steep dirt with its covering of ball-bearing shaped rocks. We then came to a broken bridge across a dry creek in a small but deep gorge. The bridge was broken right in the middle and V-shaped. No railing. Here, I elected to pass up the opportunity to fall off the bridge and scrambled down into the streambed, only to fall down anyway and bruise my hip. Lola gingerly worked her way down on the bridge and made it without falling. Jeepers, I hope that bridge can be repaired.

Faraway Rock is a great place to stop for a break or photos; we did. From here you can look down into the lakes below, glittering in the bright afternoon sun. Above the lakes are ridges, peaks and high points – bring a Green Trails map to identify the peaks you are not familiar with.

There are several small tarns all along the Lakes trail, especially between Faraway Rock and the Skyline Trail, all framed by sub-alpine trees and some with views of Mount Rainier above the trees. The meadows were a blue haze of lupine with occasional splashes of magenta paintbrush and golden arnica.

We never did come across a trail sign for “Mazama Ridge” – and while I have been there several times over the years I’ve climbed to the ridge on snowshoes and snow-camped. I didn’t want to encourage off-trail use so we followed the Skyline Trail toward Paradise. Before heading back to the car we hiked some of the “little” trails near the Visitor Center, including the Water Fall trail and a trail with a new name “Avalanche Lily trail”. We wanted to get to Nisqually Vista but the return “loop” back to the car was closed and by that time we were ready to take our boots off and head home.

The flowers are nearing the end of their peak but should be good for another week or two. The meadows are now predominated with bistort, valerian, lupine, arnica and paintbrush. We saw a few sere avalanche lilies near the tarns at higher elevations but they will soon be gone. Anemones have gone to seed and barely resemble the way they appear when they first bloom.

The views from all the trails we hiked were magnificent – views not only of Mount Rainier but peaks of the Tatoosh, the sparkling tarns and lakes; last but not least, the glory of the flowers.

Stats: We hiked a little over 6 miles with about 1,350 feet of elevation gain.

Noodling in the digital darkroom

Maybe the heat's affecting me.

Sometimes I get into the digital darkroom and get a little crazy.

I'm not sure it's art but I like some of the effects.

Crystal Peak, July 15, 2009

CRYSTAL PEAK

This is a steep trail but so rewarding you might not notice how steep until you descend 3,100 feet back to the trailhead. Be sure to get an early start to beat the heat.

The first 1.3-mile of the trail starts out as one with the Crystal Lakes trail; mercifully, it’s in the shade. After crossing Crystal Creek on a footbridge the trail climbs through old-growth forest. Note charred Douglas firs along the switchbacks. In a bit you’ll come to a spur (right) that leads to a spectacular view of Mount Rainier (viewed best in early morning light this time of year). The haze had not yet materialized.

A couple more spurs lead to overlooks of Crystal Creek tucked away in a gorge. At 1.3 miles or so is the junction – the Crystal Peak trail is to the left.

You’ll need to cross Crystal Creek again - the bridge that used to span Crystal Creek is gone but it’s not an issue. Someone has built a bridge out of deadfall to cross the stream; crossing is no problem. Soon after we crossed the creek the trail contoured across a boulder field exposed to the sun before the trail dipped back into the forest again.

Another dark, forested stretch provides an occasional peek of Mount Rainier. Soon open areas alternate with mixed terrain of evergreens, shrubbery and wildflowers. We saw lupine, tiger lilies, bear grass (lots!), mountain ash, and Indian paintbrush. Anywhere there is light there are flowers.

The trail climbs in long, easy switchbacks. The terrain gradually changes over to meadows with a few clumps of subalpine trees. Mount Rainier is in view most of the way, the trail bordered with flowers. I don’t believe I’ve ever seen as many flowers on this trail before. Cusick’s speedwell, Jacobs ladder, tiger lilies, lupine, bear grass and at higher elevations magenta paintbrush and pink heather.

White snags and deadfall are scattered across the grassy slopes; surrounded by flowers. I stopped not only to catch my breath but also for photographs. In addition to Mount Rainier and the sinuous curve of the White River there are views of Little Tahoma and Burroughs Mountain.

The trail continues climbing to the site of an old lookout at the end of the last switchback where the trail meets a rocky, ridge. Almost nothing remains of the lookout - all we saw were a few rusty nails and an ancient, weather-beaten board.

You’ll need to climb a little higher for views of Crystal Lakes below; we followed the path along the ridge to the high point (about 6,600 feet). Here there is a stunning view of Crystal Lakes below, the upper lake nestled within a craggy bowl. You can also see Mount Adams and on a clear day, Mount Saint Helens.

We took our time retracing our route; it was hard to leave. Back in the forest again on the main trail we spotted coralroot, Canadian dogwood, wild strawberry and a few wisps of lupine. The elevation gain for the hike is roughly 3,100 feet to the lookout site, 3,200 feet to the high point.

It’s worth it.

Getting to the trailhead: From Enumclaw drive State Route 410 and in about 4.5 miles past the turn-off to the National park boundary; find the trailhead (left). There is parking on both sides of the highway. No pets allowed. A Northwest Forest Pass is required.