Friday, February 26, 2010

Greenwater Lakes


Greenwater Lakes - February 20, 2010

It was a wonderful day for a hike – sunny and almost warm. Getting to the trailhead was easy too – Forest Service Road No. 70 was in good shape all the way to the trailhead, no ice or snow at all to contend with.

It’s unusual to be able to do this hike so early – in a normal year (whatever that means) the roads/trails off SR 410 are popular with skiers, snowmobiles, etc and a Sno Park is required. How strange to find the Sno Parks devoid of snow and only a dusting of snow on higher destinations.

We displayed a Northwest Forest Pass on the car at the trailhead and began our hike. We were not alone on this sunny day but that may be because some hikers assume it’s too early to hike this trail.

The bright sunlight increased our spring fever – we looked for other signs of spring as well as unprecedented warmth and lack of precipitation of any kind. Mother Nature is still holding her breath; uncertain as to whether or not more snow is to come. Despite the sense of imminent spring it felt like winter in the shady areas and foliage has yet to burst forth from tight, protective buds.

The lakes (also known as Meeker Lakes) are the greenest lakes we’ve ever seen; they are well named. An overcast day would have been welcome, at least for photography. The combination of blinding sunlight and dark shadows made photography impossible but we weren’t complaining; we were glad to experience sunlight so warm we didn’t need gloves until we hiked through shade.

The trail is in good shape with sturdy bridges where needed. We hiked as far as the turnoff toward Lost Lake before turning around and picking out a lunch spot in the sun on a sunny log. At various scenic spots a few hikers were setting up campsites; campfire smoke drifted across the green, green lakes like a good omen.

We spent so much time enjoying the lakes that we used up our turnaround time and headed back to civilization except for a quick stop at Wapiti Woolies to check out the sale rack and grab a hot drink.

To get there – from Enumclaw head east on SR 410, turn off onto FS Road No. 70 (left) – the road is paved. In a little less than 10 miles look for a short, gravel spur (right) that leads to trailhead parking and the beginning of the trail.

Do you need a Sno Park? We didn’t have one so displayed the Northwest Forest Pass instead. Most of the other cars at the trailhead did not have Sno Parks either so we are not certain whether or not a Sno Park is “officially” needed to hike here. Signs along FS Road No. 70 warn that Sno Parks are needed but in all honesty, we don’t know what rules apply when there is no snow whatsoever. We gambled and got away without one – however you might not want to take that chance.

Other recent hikes include another hike on Cougar Mountain – we hiked from Red Town to Coal Creek Parkway and got back to the car just in time to beat the rain. En route we hiked to Sandstone Falls though that trail is “closed”. We found a few signs of spring here and there; Indian plum is blooming and nettles are springing up though the landscape is still mostly in winter mode. The hike is about 6 miles round trip.

On February 24th we hiked to Twin Falls from Exit No. 38 off I-90 despite the rain. Where better to hike on a rainy day but to a waterfall? There were only a few hikers on the trail; no surprise given the weather. Despite the rain we enjoyed our easy stroll and were mesmerized (as always) by the waterfalls at the overlooks. The hike is a little over 3 miles round trip.




Thursday, February 18, 2010

Index Galena Road, revisited (February 17, 2010)


Index-Galena road revisited, February 17, 2010

We were so intrigued by the roads/trails along the Index Galena road that we returned with our friends Jim and Maxine. Once again we had unusual but wonderful spring-time hiking conditions, not a cloud in the sky. Our objective was to see if we could hike around the road closure on a bypass trail and continue toward Mineral City.

En route we pointed out the “trailhead” for Jumpoff Vista where we had hiked recently. There were no vehicles parked at the trailhead and none further up the Index-Galena road to where it is barricaded (about 2.5 miles from the Jumpoff Vista trailhead parking).

As for the barricade it is hardly needed; there is still water flowing over the road. We can’t imagine anyone other than perhaps someone wearing hip boots that would likely tackle the road on foot. The bypass is absolutely necessary.

The bypass is not signed but it takes right off uphill on the right-hand side of the road near the closure. If you’re looking for it, you’ll find it readily enough.

The path is steep and slippery but there are trees and roots to cling to when needed. It’s actually kind of fun in a way, a little bit like playing in a gym. The forest that borders the bypass is absolutely stunning with mossy trees, the rainforest-like ambience punctuated by occasional big boulders. The route is also marked with pink flags and occasional splotches of paint but it wouldn’t be hard to follow without the flags – enough people have hiked in there that the trail is discernible most of the way.

It drops down again to another broken stretch of road where the asphalt crumpled like chunks of gingerbread creating an eerie scene. Fallen trees lie across the broken road as if to remind one and all that this can be a violent place.

The bypass climbs again around another washout before finally dropping down to the road again. From that point (indicated by another barricade) the road was in good condition.

We continued hiking the road stopping at various spurs; some spurs lead to mining claims (we did not try to find those, of course), others led to old campsites, even a cable car crossing (no sign of the cable car). The scenery along the old road is splendid – peaks we were not sure we could identify (I’d rather not name them at all then get them wrong and be taken to task by a topographical wizard). There are many places to stop along the way where you can sit in the sun and soak up the views beside the river.

Roughly a couple miles from our starting point we stopped to investigate an arrangement of big boulders beside the road – here, it looks like rock hounds have found some goodies. The rocks appear to be a conglomerate of jasper, quartz and granite.

Not too far past the boulders we crossed Howard Creek on a good bridge; and a little further we came to the strong bridge that still spans the river. The bridge was in the sun and that made a good spot for lunch and a turnaround. Silverback and I hankered to continue toward the site of Mineral City but figured we didn’t have enough time to “get” anywhere in particular. Jim was having trouble with new boots so we turned around resolving to return, next time to follow the Silver Creek road-trail as far as possible.

On our way out we met two hikers coming in; other than them we saw no one else on the road. Almost forgot to mention that it looks like the Index-Galena road is a likely candidate for a “new” road. We noticed surveyors tape and flagging on a route above the bypass trail and had heard that there were plans/hopes to rebuild the road higher up on the hillside above the river.

As is often the case in such soulful places I was “feeling” more than “seeing” and my photographs reflect that. The photographs I took do not do this place justice – but the contrast in light was not my friend either. The road-walk is far more spectacular than any of these photographs suggest. I’ve noticed that when I am truly excited about a setting that the resulting photographs fall way short of my anticipation.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Jumpoff Vista (North Cascades)




Jumpoff Vista (February 9, 2010)

It had been a few years since I last tramped this road with fellow guidebook writer, Bob Dreisbach (author of Seattle Outdoors). Then, the old 4-mile forest service road had been in fairly good shape and made a good off-season hike. In addition to the exercise we’d been rewarded with views of Gunn Peak, Baring and other peaks in the vicinity. Older guidebooks suggest views of Spire Peak and Conglomerate Peak as well.

Silverback and I set out to hike the road on a balmy, February day. First we drove the Index-Galena road to view the infamous washout (the road washed out a few years ago and it is not known whether or not it will ever be repaired). It appears that a rough trail cuts up the bank to get around the washout for those determined to continue on.

On a side note the Index-Galena road leads to the site of Mineral City and a mostly forgotten trail that went to Poodle Dog Pass above Monte Cristo. As of this writing I don’t know of anyone who has successfully completed that entire hike and with each passing year, the terrain grows wilder and more desolate without road or trail access. That status seems unlikely to change.

There’s another road at the barricade that branches off to lakes known mostly to fishermen and the old Sunset Mine. Bob Dreisbach and I once hiked that road as well and did find the old mine – in my opinion such exploration can be hazardous and is not recommended. Given the rough nature of that road the fishermen won’t have to worry much about hikers despoiling their hidden lakes.

We got out of the car to photograph the washout but did not linger. At the barricade the road closure sign has been vandalized with racist graffiti and there are bullet casings all around. There is something about the end of a road that seems to attract unsavory elements though some may argue that hikers are also an unsavory element.

We backtracked to the gated forest service road (it is 4 miles from the Index turnoff on US 2). Our odometer said 3.9 miles – close enough. One other vehicle was parked there; there is room for 3-4 at the most. A bright yellow sign on a tree explains that Friends of the Forest removed trash from the site; thank you. I’m seeing more and more of these yellow signs, always a welcome sight.

There have been significant changes to the road since my visit with Dreisbach. As the road climbs toward Jumpoff Vista several washouts break up the continuity of the road. The first two or three are not enough to stop hikers; perhaps even cyclists (they will need to carry their bike across). Canyon Creek is responsible for most of these. In this odd winter that does not feel like winter, the crossings presented no problems for us. These crossings could present challenges later in spring with the melting snow-pack (assuming it ever snows again) or drenching rains. Right now, no problem.

Much of the hike is through forest but there are sporadic views of Mount Persis and the connecting ridge to Mount Index as well as the forested valley below. Further up the road are growing views of Baring and Gunn Peak; the higher you go, the better the views.

Before you get to those rewarding views you’ll come to a landslide or rock avalanche that destroyed a 200-foot or so stretch of the road. Some hikers may opt to stop here and I suggest you think twice before crossing this, especially if it has been raining for any length of time. We felt it was okay to continue since the weather has been stable and did so, proceeding cautiously across the mess of trees, dirt and rocks. Incidentally the road is snow-free all the way to the landing (as of this writing) though that can change.

From that point the road was in good shape with only a few trees to step over. As we climbed we passed a large, mossy boulder field (right) just before reaching pretty Bitter Creek. This is one of the prettiest spots along the road. A little beyond Bitter Creek Baring comes into view but it has a completely different aspect than how it appears from US 2 – it looks like a completely different mountain.

We continued on the road to an old landing where there are occasional unobstructed views of Gunn Peak as well as Baring; the road continues. Past the landing the road grows indistinct as alders are taking over. By spring the road above the landing will be even more challenging to follow as much of the upper road will be blocked by alders (at lower elevations you’ll also have salmonberry and devil’s club to contend with).

We can only imagine how impenetrable the road will be when the alders leaf out. Early spring or fall is the best time for this hike (now is a good time unless winter snow returns). If you do visit in the winter it might make a good snowshoe trip – at least as far as the rockslide.

From the landing there is a choice of two very overgrown spurs to get to that view; since the views from the old landing were good enough for us we made that our turnaround point. We estimate we were a couple hundred feet below the “end” of the road.

The hike to the landing is about 8 miles round trip with roughly 2,000 feet of gain (2,100 feet according to my altimeter). Silverback’s GPS gave us a slightly different reading. To get there from Monroe continue on US 2 (east) to the turn off for Index (left). Continue 4 miles to a gated road on the right-hand side of the Index Galena Road.

Friday, January 29, 2010

Recent hikes, West Seattle, Seattle January 2010


This time of year I often visit city/urban parks that are close to home - Carkeek Park and Discovery Park being a couple of examples. Lincoln Park is also close to me and I often stop there as well.


Sometimes I just walk the neighborhood (West Seattle) and almost always discover "new", or at least "new" to me.


Plus, it's fresh air.


Recent hikes (January 2010)


Recent Hikes (Mailbox Peak (1-19), Mount Si (1-14), a couple of hikes to Cougar Mountain

The combination of Mailbox Peak, a post-hike cigar and Raymond Carver just about did Silverback in. You have to admit that’s quite a combination!!

After we got home from Mailbox Peak I plunked myself down on the couch while Silverback went down to the basement to smoke a cigar (there’s a lot of books down there too – hence, Raymond Carver).

I hike Mailbox Peak once a year whether I need to or not. It’s that kind of place. Long ago I resigned myself to never breaking a record in the length of time it takes me to summit. Let’s just say at best it’s respectable for someone my age.

But this was Silverback’s first visit to this hoary peak – but certainly not his last. We were denied the summit not because of age or lack of conditioning but rather conditions. By the time we reached the boulder field there was enough snow to slow us down (why didn’t I bring my ice axe?) and by that time Silverback had had enough “uphill” anyway. While I still had energy to keep going, I wouldn’t have been comfortable without an ice axe nor would I expect Silverback to wait for me while I trudged onward.

Lest you think us weaklings, consider this: Silverback has lost about 75 pounds since moving out here in April. At that time Grand Prospect via Rattlesnake Mountain was too much for him. By the way, he isn’t dying – he lost the weight on purpose. I lost some as well but not nearly as much. My 21-pound weight-loss has made going uphill a lot easier for me, too. It’s surprising what a difference weight can make when it comes to hiking.

The Mailbox Peak trail was in good condition, the main route now marked with silver, reflective diamonds. It appears there has been some slight rerouting since my last visit but that’s all to the good. I do miss the huge, mossy log that marked the beginning of the initial climb (you hauled yourself up that first pitch by pulling on branch stubs attached to the log) but I didn’t miss it enough to look for it. I also remember when the trailhead was marked by a toothbrush – now the trail is actually a designated trail with a sign warning hikers of potential hazards (not a bad idea, that).

All in all it was a great hike – our only concern a shady-looking character that had been parked at the trailhead and didn’t appear to be a hiker. We take everything with us – including car registration and any piece of paper that has our names/addresses on it just to play it doubly safe. As for items worth stealing, we don’t have anything worth stealing in the first place – though a hooligan wouldn’t know that. Anyway, despite our initial paranoia we came back to find the car unscathed.

Last week I hiked to the base of Mount Si on the regular trail. I made good time (for me) – I even passed a few hikers and only felt fatigue just below the boulders. The fatigue came on without warning, so intense I had to sit on one of the steps and pretend I was taking a photo (we writers have a reputation to live up to after all – fatigue must never be admitted!) As of last week the trail and the mountain were snow-free. That may have changed by now.

There’s not much new to say about Mount Si except I’d hate to think how we hikers will be affected if Mount Si, Little Si and other popular trails in the area are closed due to budgetary woes. I’m not much into politics but I sure hope this doesn’t happen. Where would we hike in the winter close to home or after work on a long, summer evening? Tiger Mountain is handy but it doesn’t have the “heft” of Mount Si. Other hikers have suggested a lot of this political stuff is just scare tactics and that may be the case. I sure hope “they” get whatever they need to keep these trailheads open. If it means ponying up more cash I’d be willing to pay $1 to park at the Mount Si trailhead – wouldn’t you?

Other recent hikes include a couple of visits to Cougar Mountain – these were “brown” hikes but it’s exercise and fresh air. Sometimes that has to be enough. There are a few signs of spring here and there; Indian plum leafing out, its flowers just beginning to emerge. I haven’t spotted any Coltsfoot yet but nettles are popping up “johnny-on-the-spot”.

Closer to home I spotted my first skunk cabbage last week in Discovery Park along the Wolf Tree nature trail and crocuses in bloom at Green Lake.





Sunday, January 17, 2010

Squak Mountain, January 16, 2010


Central Peak Loop, Squak Mountain (January 16, 2010)

It was just like a Mountaineer hike; 12 of us were desperate enough for a hike to venture out to Squak Mountain despite the likely chance of rain. Of the 12, only Silverback was not a Mountaineer; the rest were members of that hoary organization.

Every time I hike in the Issaquah Alps – whether it be Cougar, Tiger or Squak – I always claim that particular peak as being my favorite. So I guess you could say that Squak Mountain was my favorite peak yesterday. Next week it could be Cougar, Tiger or perhaps another “summit” along the I-90 corridor. Just call me fickle.

We parked in Issaquah, hiking up the Squak Access trail to the East Side trail, checking out Issaquah Creek on our way. The water was running pretty high in the stream though far from flooding (thank goodness). Starting out that way always feels odd as the trail weaves around townhouses and apartments before becoming genuine “trail”. As always, I envy the folks that live so close to a “real” trail!!

The trail begins in a forested blend of evergreens and deciduous trees; it is an especially pretty hike in the fall when the leaves of deciduous trees turn from green to red, orange and yellow. The trail crosses Crystal Creek and small tributaries; all waterways spanned by bridges (all slippery given the recent rain). Part way up the trail is one of my favorite stretches through a boulevard of vine maples where the ground is shad-carpet thick with moss.

Once past the vine maple the trail climbs more steeply to intersect the East Side trail. Here you can access Central Peak by continuing (straight) on the East Ridge Trail, following signs to Central Peak, or turn right on the East Side trail, then take a left (uphill) on the Old Griz trail, following signs for Central Peak. It makes a nice loop; we did it in reverse.

By the time we reached the junction with the East Side trail the nature of the terrain had changed; now we were mostly in evergreens, salal, Oregon grape, bracken and sword ferns. This area has been logged in the past; therefore, most of the trees are second or third-growth trees, there is little – if any – ancient forest.

The last stretch along the East Ridge trail is steep as it switchbacks through sword ferns, finally emerging onto the service road that makes a quick climb to the summit of Squak with it’s array of microwave towers (one of the hikers mentioned that the towers were 20th century old growth). There’s no view here but it is a “summit” and deservedly makes a good spot for lunch. If the summit is too bleak it is only a short distance from here to the Bullitt chimney where there is a picnic table or two.

After lunch we began our descent, following the well-signed trail system to the “Old Griz” trail. The Old Griz trail is an old trail and here and there you will find old signs here and there designating the trail as such. As trees have grown over the years the aging signs are now out of reach unless you are Jack and the Bean Stalk.
Since the Old Griz trail has not been as heavily traveled as other trails on Squak, this stretch has more of a wilderness feel to it. Here we found more lichen, fungi and a larger variety of vegetation than on the other trails. We met only one other person on this trail.

The trail descends steeply in places then intersects the East Side trail (the East Side trail goes all the way out to State Route 900) where we turned right in order to intersect the East Ridge trail again, hence making a loop. We saw no one on the East Side trail and hardly anyone else on the other trails.

The East Side stretch provides a slippery bench where there is no view; perhaps there was a view once-upon-a-time. Still, if it’s not raining, it provides a good spot for a break or lunch or simply to enjoy being surrounded by recovering forest lands. Here is the most dramatic scenery (thus far that I’ve discovered on Squak) where the trail weaves between big boulders before crossing a tributary.

After crossing the stream the trail climbs a bit before reaching the East Ridge trail and our return to Issaquah via the Squak Access trail. This hike was new to most everyone in our group; those who had never hiked on Squak Mountain were pleased with this loop that can easily be hiked year-round.

Our loop was about 8 miles with roughly 2,000 feet of gain according to the GPS. That’s good enough to help us stay in shape for more mountainous trails in the near future. If you’ve got the Green Trails map No. 203S (Cougar Mountain, Squak Mountain) you’ll see there are other ways to approach Central Peak as well.










Friday, January 15, 2010

January hikes




Hiker’s Block (January 15, 2009)

You’ve heard of writer’s block … well, I’ve been suffering hiker’s block as well as writer’s block.

Sorry for the long silence, for the long sleep so to speak. I have been hiking and hiking a bunch - two to three times a week – and as I have written perhaps once too often, most of these hikes have been “brown” hikes in and around North Bend and Issaquah (trails sans snow, flowers or fall color). Sometimes these hikes are conditioner hikes like Mount Si -these are always enjoyable and Mount Si is not devoid of beauty. The boulder gardens on the Old Si trail are gorgeous; I never get tired of walking through that mossy accumulation of “big” rocks adorned with fluttering licorice ferns.

We’ve done several hikes on Cougar Mountain as well as Mount Si. When we hike Tiger Mountain we usually make a loop and/or hike lesser-traveled trails (the Hiker’s Hut via the High Point and Preston trail). While the Hiker’s Hut is not a thing of beauty on a raw, windy day it made an ideal retreat for four chilled hikers and a good place for lunch. We got a kick out of the gray jays that have also discovered the hiker’s hut as a potential food source. Some of them even ventured inside!

We showed our friend Kelly a trail on Cougar Mountain she’d never done before and stopped for photos at the Erratic Boulder, also checked out the “new” trail to the Talus Development and its fancy houses (sigh). We’ve hiked up the Teneriffe Road a couple of times just for the exercise and also the road to Green Mountain via the CCC Road. There’s no lack of places to go.

One of the most interesting walks that Silverback and I have done recently is walking all the way around Lake Union, stopping at various parks and points of interest along the way. We especially enjoyed our stop at the Center for Wooden Boats – in addition to wooden boats in various stages of being rebuilt (or built) there are photographs of local shipyards taken years ago, including one of Blanchard’s where my Dad once worked (though the old photograph was slightly blurry, I am almost certain my Dad was in one of the photos on display). My Dad was a shipwright who also worked on tugboats (in Alaska) and at the Bremerton shipyard during World War II. The Arthur D. Foss (a tugboat), the Swiftsure (lightship) and the Duwamish (fireboat) are on display as well.

There’s a lot of history mixed in with the fancy houseboats and new businesses springing up – old railroad tracks, abandoned buildings, pocket parks and the occasional Starbucks where one can get a cup of coffee or a bite to eat (also fancy restaurants we couldn’t afford to set foot into). There’s so much more to see when you walk as opposed to driving or even riding a bike.

It’s just a little over 6 miles to walk around the lake – no appreciable elevation gain!!