Deep Creek Trail, May 2012

Deep Creek Trail No. 1196 (South Cascades) If you think you need to get in better condition for strenuous hikes before snow melts out on higher elevation trails this is the hike for you. The Deep Creek trail is a trail you can hike as little or as far as you’d like (strong hikers can hike to a junction with the Noble Knob trail when the Corral Pass Road is still snowbound). Refer to the maps for options. In May we expected to encounter snow well before the junction with the Noble Knob trail so we started from the White River (Trail No. 1199) trailhead on State Route 410. Though the Deep Creek trail is steep there are advantages starting from SR 410 – it’s an easy, pleasant 2-mile hike to the junction with the Deep Creek trail. And it’s scenic - en route to Deep Creek you’ll cross Ranger Creek and Dry Creek. The footbridges are all in good condition. There are also wildflowers along the trail including stream violets, vanilla leaf, rattlesnake plantain and trilliums at lower elevations. The hike starts out on the White River Trail a few feet above SR 410 (see getting there). The left fork leads to Camp Sheppard/Snoquera Falls, turn right for Deep Creek. You’ll soon cross Ranger Creek on a footbridge. After crossing the creek the trail contours above the highway through forest then crosses a talus slope before re-entering the forest. Watch for clumps of yellow stream-violets nestled near the streams. There’s nothing prettier than stream violets to herald spring and celebrate the melting snow. Stream violets bloom April through July in various settings and elevations. The trail crosses not-so-dry Dry Creek on another footbridge. In about ½ miles past Dry Creek the trail skirts a few cabins before it reaches the junction for the Deep Creek trail on the west side of a footbridge. Of the streams Deep Creek is the most dramatic – in May it was swollen with snow-melt falling in short, furious cascades over boulders, pushing its way between eroding banks where ancient trees defy the law of gravity and stand tall as if to keep the river within its banks. This is a spectacular setting and it’s also a good opportunity to refill your water bottles before you head uphill. As of this writing the trail sign for Deep Creek is lying beside the creek. You’ll also see a footbridge crossing Deep Creek but don’t cross Deep Creek unless you want to hike out to a lower trailhead along Forest Service Road No. 7174 (Corral Pass Road). The Deep Creek trail continues on the west side of Deep Creek and immediately starts climbing; some stretches are very steep. Below the junction for the Noble Knob trail there are only peek-a-boo views out to the White River valley, Mount Rainier, forested foothills and ridges. However, there is an overlook about a half mile from Deep Creek – find the unsigned path to the overlook at the end of a switchback though views are partially blocked by trees. It’s still a pretty setting to take a break before resuming the climb. Though we were denied the views we’d hoped for we took pleasure in the forest itself, a green concoction of evergreens, vine maple, salal, ferns, Oregon grape, vanilla leaf, trilliums, pipsissewa, rattlesnake plantain, false lily-of-the-valley, wood sorrel and yellow stream violets. We didn’t get to the Noble Knob Trail – we began to encounter snow. The snow was still deep enough to obscure the trail and route-finding became more challenging. We continued, looking for clues such as cut logs and old tracks but when we began to post-hole (break through the snow) we called it a day and made that point our turnaround (5,210 feet). We’d already gained over 3,700 feet of elevation – that much gain certainly qualifies as a “work-out”! Though we weren’t able to hike as far as we hoped in our books no hike is a failure. Early summer hikes are often referred to as “snow-line probers” by experienced hikers. Some hikers pack snowshoes for such conditions; others carry on as best they can without snowshoes but once you hit significant snow, the “hike” is usually over. From our turnaround it would have taken another mile or so and another 600 feet of elevation gain just to reach the junction with the Noble Knob Trail. As it was it was an 11-mile round-trip hike for us. If Noble Knob is your objective then you might want to wait for the Corral Pass Road to melt out (the road is not suitable for passenger cars); then you can drive to the trailhead for a shorter and easier approach to Noble Knob. Meanwhile, why not get in shape for those steep, summer trails and tackle Deep Creek on a cool, cloudy day? Workout-hikes like this are an investment for the rest of the hiking season, building reserves for more adventures. Getting there: From Enumclaw drive east on State Route 410 for 29.8 miles to parking area on the right side of the highway (there is also space to park on the left side of the highway). Walk up the spur to the White River Trail No. 1199. This trailhead also provides access to the Ranger Creek Trail. A Northwest Forest Pass is required – the trail is also open to mountain bikes and equestrians. Maps: Green Trails No. 238 Greenwater and No. 239 Lester. For additional information call the Mount-Baker National Forest (Enumclaw district) at 360-825-6585. Karen Sykes

Snoquera Palisades

SNOQUERA PALISADES (Trail No. 1198) When it’s still winter at higher elevations in the mountains the Palisades Trail (No. 1198) makes a great spring hike. The hike begins on the White River Trail (No. 1199) off State Route 410 east of Greenwater. In 0.1 mile turn left at the junction with the Palisades Trail. Plenty of wildflowers grace the trail including bleeding hearts, yellow violets, trilliums, red flowering currant, even Calypso orchids. Calypso orchids (also known as fairy slippers) are tiny, intricate flowers often springing from duff near evergreens. A little later in spring the air will be sweet with the scent of vanilla leaf as the ground-cover in the forest grows into a plush carpet of wood sorrel, twin-flower, salal, Oregon grape, ferns, moss and lichen. Hear that roar? That’s Lower Dalles Falls and you’ll hear it before you see it. In spring the 280-foot waterfall puts on a spectacular display from melting snow. A short spur leads to the base for a closer look. Note the majestic Western red cedars near the waterfall. As the trail climbs away from the waterfall toward the Palisades it follows a delicately engineered route between Dalles Creek and tall, dark cliffs – watch for loose rocks. You’ll soon come to a sturdy staircase that makes quick work of climbing a particularly steep pitch – the bridge was built by the Boy Scouts of America. . Above the stairs you’ll cross Dalles Creek - look below and to the right for a partial view of another waterfall (some refer to this waterfall as Upper Dalles Creek Falls). After crossing Dalles Creek the trail re-enters the forest and is level for an easy half-mile or so as it continues to the first of several promontories (3,320 feet elevation) that overlook the White River valley, Sun Top Mountain and forested foothills. Notice how gnarled snags lean out over the cliffs as if they too are taking in the views. Here stonecrop and delicate saxifrages cling to the rocky outcroppings. Be on the lookout for ticks – like us, they like warm rocks in the sun. How far do you want to hike? Any of the overlooks along the Palisades make dandy lunch spots or turnaround. You can continue to a robust shelter at Ranger Creek where the Ranger Creek Trail (Trail No. 1197) comes in from State Route 410 (see the map for details). To get to the Palisades trailhead: From Enumclaw drive east about 28 miles on State Route 410, park on the left side of the highway (parking is limited), elevation (2,352 feet). The trailhead is just past the overlook of Skookum Falls and is designated with a small sign. A Northwest Forest Pass is required. It is about five miles round-trip to the first viewpoint with 1,100 feet of elevation gain. For additional information, rules and regulations and/or current trail conditions, call the Snoqualmie Ranger District (Enumclaw) at 360-825-6585. The map is Green Trails No. 238 (Greenwater). Karen Sykes

Little Mashel Falls, Pack Forest

Little Mashel Falls (Charles Lathrop Pack Experimental and Demonstration Forest)


Pardon the pun but you can pack a lot of fun into Pack Forest near Eatonville. Pack Forest is named for Charles Lathrop Pack – Pack was a lumberman from the east coast who gifted the University of Washington’s College of Forest Resources with the means for the University of Washington to purchase land in the 1920s. In addition to it being a year-round gem for hikers, equestrians, bicyclists and hunters (during hunting season) the 4,300-acre forest provides an outdoor classroom for forest management students.

In spring Pack Forest is especially beautiful, our favorite season to hike there. Late March and April are when the wildflowers begin to bloom, birds sing and waterfalls roar. In late March we saw Coltsfoot, red flowering currant and Indian plum.

While road junctions are signed first-time visitors may find it tricky to get to the waterfalls. In spring (or during rainy periods) the trails to overlooks can be slippery so if you hike with children exercise caution near the overlooks.

The names of the waterfalls can be confusing (there are three main waterfalls). Little Mashel Falls is correctly named; however it is also known as Bridal Veil Falls and trail signs refer to it as Middle Falls. There is also an upper Little Mashel Falls (Tom Tom Falls) and a lower waterfall (Lower Little Mashel Falls) that is difficult to reach on a rough trail partially blocked by blowdowns.

En route to and from Little Mashel Falls you’ll come across signs on trees that alert you when you are leaving Pack Forest property; trails outside Pack Forest are rough, not maintained and potentially hazardous (you can hike on those trails but you hike at your own risk).

When you get to Little Mashel Falls you may well wonder why it is called “little” as the waterfall is a far cry from “little”, especially in spring. The “little” is because the waterfalls originate from the Little Mashel River.

The hike to Little Mashel Falls starts at the upper trailhead parking lot (left) inside Pack Forest across from the administration buildings. There is also a lower parking lot (with portable toilet) between the gatehouse (entrance) to Pack Forest and the upper lot.

From the trailhead walk a short distance up the main road to Road 1000 (Lathrop Drive) and turn left. Hiking clockwise bypass all numbered roads until you reach a Y (about 1-1/2 miles from the trailhead) and a metal signpost designating the Falls Trail. Turn left onto Road 1070.

You’ll soon come to a boulder (left) with blue hand-painted letters signed “Falls” with a directional arrow and another metal signpost. You’ll see two trails off to the left. The first is a rough path blocked by branches - take the other path as it crosses a grassy area and skirts a small pond. From the pond the trail makes a brief descent to a junction designated with three yellow diamonds; turn right. Then turn left at another marker for Middle Falls and you’ll soon come to wooden steps that descend to an overlook of Little Mashel Falls (also known as Bridal Veil Falls and Middle Falls!!).

The view of Little Mashel Falls is stunning though in spring the force of the spray from the waterfall is more like wind-driven rain than mist. A rope at the overlook bars access to a slippery, steep path that descends to the base of the falls – it’s dangerous and a fall could be fatal. You can descend little further from the overlook on the trail to a lower overlook, a good turnaround this time of year.

To extend your hike walk back to the trailhead and continue along Road 1070 a short distance to where it descends to an old railroad grade. Turn left to see an old railroad trestle that spans the Little Mashel River. The river makes a big bend as it goes under the trestle before it pours over a lip to form Upper Little Mashel Falls (also known as Tom Tom Falls).

The Eatonville cut-off road is just above the trestle; the area near the trestle used to be a popular party spot but the trestle is on private railroad property (do not cross the trestle). Cars that do park above the trestle will be towed.

To get there: From Seattle drive south on Interstate 5 to Tacoma, get off at Exit 127 for Highway 512 and in about two miles exit onto State Route 7 (toward Spanaway). Continue on State Route 7 to the entrance of Pack Forest, 780 feet elevation. Enter Pack Forest and continue to upper parking lot (903 feet elevation).

The hike is about 5-3/4 miles round trip with approximately 700 feet gain including minor ups and downs.

Additional Information: There are usually trail maps available at the administration buildings but on our recent visit there weren’t any available. You can print one out from their website before you go: www.packforest.org . For additional information call 206-685-4485 (Seattle).

Karen Sykes

To the tune of: "I don't get around much anymore"

That's not totally true. Let's just say that I haven't been anywhere "interesting" in the mountains for what is beginning to feel like a very long time. The cost of gas, the weather, avalanche danger, aging cars .... so to keep fit I've been running and do so about three times a week, sometimes four. When I start hiking again (if it ever stops raining) I'll run less often. However, I am feeling good about the running - my longest run to date is 12.5 miles, almost a Half Marathon. I'm considering the Seattle Half Marathon this fall.

The other activity that keeps me moreorless sane is my enjoyment of photography. I don't venture far these days so I often revisit the same places but always find something "new" to photograph or at least a "new" way of looking at something I've photographed in the past.

Places I return to frequently include the Pike Place Public Market, the Volunteer Park Conservatory, Jack Block Park (a Port of Seattle park in West Seattle), Alki, little parks along Beach Drive SW in West Seattle and just around the neighborhood pea-patches. Another favorite place: Georgetown. I'm sure I could come up with more but the truth is, I'm still not getting outside enough to be my usual happy self and at times I feel "dull" for lack of a better word.

The weather lately has been demoralizing to say the least. It looks like it's going to be another short summer with snow lingering in the mountains too long. Just about the time the snow melted LAST year the days were already getting shorter.

Sometimes you just can't win but you gotta keep going.

Twin Falls Natural Area and more

March 5, 2012

It was a surprise to have this popular trailhead all to ourselves on this snowy morning. The Twin Falls trail to the bridge/overlook of Twin Falls is a popuar trail for several reasons - it's close to Seattle, Issaquah and North Bend and it's scenic. It's also an easy enough hike that it's suitable for hikers of all ages and abilities. In otherwords, it's a good four-season trail suitable for anyone. Since it is suitable for anyone, that often translates to "everyone" so if you are seeking solitude this is not the trail for you on a sunny weekend. Whenever you go don't forget your Discover Pass - it is required.

Unless ... it's a wintry day mid-week with an early start. We've hiked to Twin Falls in all kinds of weather but this was our first time in snow. It felt a little odd to be breaking trail on this family-friendly hike though the snow will soon melt. It's only about 2-1/2 miles round trip to the bridge-overlook above Twin Falls (that's where many people stop). There is also a lower overlook of Twin Falls before you get to the bridge but as of this writing it is closed due to damage from recent snow and ice storms. Please heed the warning.

The trail starts out following the South Fork of the Snoqualmie River with viewpoints of the river along the way. After the trail follows the river a while it climbs to a small ridge where there are benches for a rest-break or peek-a-boo views of the river (we were able to get a peek at one of the waterfalls from the bench). The trail drops down again, is level for a bit then climbs again on a circuitous route to avoid a slope prone to mud-slides. Along the way note a large, hollowed out stump (left), a perfect setting for a photo of a hiker avoiding inclement weather.

A bit more down on an elaborate set of stairs leads to the robust bridge, the thundering falls and dizzying views to the river and waterfalls below. As of this writing there was about three inches of snow on the bridge but it wasn't slippery. Hikers can continue further to another overlook of the waterfalls and/or to the Iron Horse trail (getting to the Iron Horse trail involves some uphill.

What this writer cannot adequately describe was the beauty of the fresh snow highlighting every twig, fern and tree along the trail. On a cloudy day such as this one it was like hiking through a pen and ink drawing or an etching, every detail sharp and crisp.

The temperatures were such that the snow was not designed to last and began to melt as we hiked out. We also began to meet a few other hikers coming in to enjoy the gifts of this four-season trail.

It is about 2-1/2 miles round-trip to the bridge overlooking Twin Falls.

To get there from Seattle: drive east on I-90 and get off at Exit 34, follow signs to the park/trailhead.

Rattlesnake Lake and more:

Since it was still cold we skipped the hike to Rattlesnake Ledge on our way back but did stop at the lake for photography. It was cold and wintry; we could see Rattlesnake Ledge was snowy and didn't look at all user-friendly. The water was high in the lake but it made for good photography.

To get to Rattlesnake Lake and Rattlesnake Ledge: Take Exit 32 from I-90, continue to trailhead/parking. A Discover Pass is required.

We also stopped at Mill Pond Road (between Snoqualmie Falls and North Bend) for photos of Mount Si reflected in an old mill pond on our way home. Conditions were great for photography; the sun had come out, the skies were blue and what clouds there were were fat, puffy and white.

Our last stop was Snoqualmie Falls; we spent more time photographing flowers in the gardens at Snoqualmie Falls than the waterfall itself; the mist from Snoqualmie Falls was extreme and the upper overlooks were closed due to icy conditions.

Karen Sykes

Rattlesnake Mountain Trail, February 2012

Though we enjoy the hike to Rattlesnake Ledge from Rattlesnake Lake we enjoy more solitude on the Rattlesnake Mountain Trail. Getting to this trailhead is a shorter drive – a plus with rising gas prices. Let the feet do the work rather than wheels when possible. If you’ve never hiked this end of the Rattlesnake Mountain trail take a side trip to Snoqualmie Point before you hit the trail; the views are worth the few minutes it takes to drive up there. It’s also a lovely setting for an after-hike picnic or sunset photos.

Though this is now a well-established trail and is featured in hiking guidebooks and the media hikers were hiking a network of old roads and boot paths to Rattlesnake Lake long before the trail was constructed. Despite it being an official trail with publicity we have yet to encounter other hikers once we’ve hiked past Stan’s Overlook. Stan’s overlook is about 2.5 miles from the trailhead and a natural turnaround for hikers wanting an easy hike with views of North Bend, Mount Si and Teneriffe.

Once you leave the trailhead the trail climbs at a moderate grade through second- and third-growth forest with clues that this was once majestic forest. You’ll notice a gigantic, hollowed-out stump (left) as you climb, an ideal spot for kids playing hide’ n’ seek. Note the size of the gigantic roots that branch out, still clutching the earth with bare knuckles. In the fall this forested stretch of the trail is a smorgasbord of gold, yellows, reds and brown as vine maple is prevalent.
After the short climb through forest the trail opens out to climb a more-open stretch; more stumps lean out over the trail and note how the bare patches of earth (made when the new trail was created) are filling in with salal and other vegetation. Several stretches of the trail have been logged in the past; note how wild blackberries are wrapping their arms around the stumps and note how in the fall mushrooms seemingly appear seemingly overnight. From this cleared stretch you’ll begin to get glimpses of the Snoqualmie peaks but the best is yet to come.
Stan’s Overlook (2,100 feet) always fools me; it’s further away than I remember. Twice now we’ve almost turned downhill where another logging road comes in from below. It is especially tempting because in the thin layer of snow on the road we could see where others have come and gone. Clue: this may be another approach to Stan’s overlook (stay tuned). We love to explore so next time we hike there; we’ll hike down the road and see where it comes out (if anywhere).

If/when in doubt; you can rely on good signage - after another uphill stint a hard-to-miss sign points the way to Stan’s Overlook and other points of interest beyond. For Stan’s turn left at this junction - an old road leads to a picnic table and a spread of views to please the taste of any hiker. On this last day in February the picnic table was covered with snow; it wasn’t picnic weather. Though the sun was out it was chilly. We opted to continue hiking until we ran out of energy or time, whichever came first.

Once past Stan’s Overlook the trail climbs through mostly second- and third-growth forest. Some hikers get bored hiking through what some might call unremarkable forest but we can always find something to please the eye; a wisp of fern, an animal track, unusual bark on a tree. This stretch of the trail is mostly “up” but at a more modest grade than the beginning and with a few downs to hold one’s interest.
With our lazy start-time we had to push to get to Grand Prospect, about 4 miles from the trailhead (according to the trail signs); other write-ups suggest it is more like 5 miles to Grand Prospect. No matter; once you are there the view is indeed “grand”. A signboard helps identify the sea of peaks across from you; some you’ll recognize. Today the graphics on the sign were covered with snow.
We only lingered long enough for a quick bite to eat, following a patch of sunlight that kept moving further and further away as minutes passed. It was warm in the sun but still cold in the shade. As always, when we gaze upon the Snoqualmie valley peaks and beyond we remember good hikes in the past, peaks we’ll return to when the snow is gone.

We packed up and hurried down; pausing to note that a cougar’s tracks had crossed our path. We’d heard of a “large” cougar that calls this region home and we would love to have seen it from a safe distance; there was also a smattering of bunny tracks that were not there on our way to the overlook. We believe the cougar had spotted us; that gave us a slightly eerie feeling. Friends tell me I have a way with cats but not kitties that size!

On our way down we only met two hikers coming up the trail; at Rattlesnake Lake we would have encountered many more.

To get there from Seattle: drive east on I-90 and get off at Exit 27. From the off-ramp turn right and continue a short distance to the end of the road – go through the gate (right) to the trailhead at 980 feet (straight takes you to the Snoqualmie Point Overlook, always worth a stop before or after a hike).

Additional information: The map is Green Trails No. 205S Rattlesnake Mountain. It is about 5 miles round-trip to Stan’s Overlook, about 8 miles round-trip (per trail signs) to Grand Prospect.

Karen Sykes

Granite Lakes Road - Hike or snowshoe!

The Granite Lakes Road in North Bend is a year-round favorite for hikers and snowshoers in winter. Choose from an easy hike to Granite Creek (about 6 miles round trip), a 12-mile round-trip to Granite Lakes and in summer a splendid but strenuous hike to seldom-visited Thompson Lake. Another plus; there is little avalanche danger along the road unless you are climbing beyond the junction to Granite Lakes/Thompson Lake in the winter.

The trail starts at a gated road with occasional views to the valley below, across the valley to clear-cuts and on a clear day, views of Bessemer Mountain. As you hike note the huge stumps notched with springboard notches from bygone logging days. In winter and spring small tributaries engage in chatter as they tumble from hillsides above the road. You’ll see that Time is slowly restoring the land to its natural state as moss, ferns and lichens tiptoe down to the edge of the alder-lined road.
On our hike in February it felt and looked like winter; be sure to get weather updates and dress accordingly. You might need snowshoes depending on snowfall. There was no snow at the trailhead but soon after we started out we began to hit patches of snow interspersed with bare ground. In about 2.5 miles we came to a stretch of glare ice that covered the road and we rued our decision to leave traction devices behind.

We very carefully worked our way across the ice; thankfully the stretch was not long. Beyond the ice the surface of the road returned to a hiker-friendly combo of softer snow and dirt and we began to get glimpses of Granite Creek through the trees (left). If you look closely you may also spot old logging spurs through the corridor of second and third-growth forest as the road continues climbing beside Granite Creek.

When we reached the bridge crossing at Granite Creek we called it a day; from that point snowshoes and/or traction devices would have been needed. The bridge (at about 1,400 feet) is a natural turnaround for many hikers in late winter/early spring. Along the road the creek tumbles poetically through moss-slathered boulders on its way to the lowlands. This is no rickety bridge with a marginal handrail; this one was built to last and dates back to logging days when legendary characters such as Dirty Harry built logging roads most feared to travel.

In winter snowshoers, skiers and hikers often continue further. From the Granite Creek Bridge it’s another couple of miles to the next junction at 3,090 feet. At this fork the lower fork descends to Granite Lakes (when the ground is snow-covered route-finding skills will come in handy). We’ve been to the lakes in all seasons; most hikers will prefer dropping down to the lakes after the snow has melted and vegetation leafs out.

The left fork (Trail 1009A) climbs to a ridge overlooking Thompson Lake; best left for a long, summer day. Getting to Thompson Lake is a strenuous undertaking though well worth the effort. Thompson Lake is truly one of the most spectacular places we’ve hiked to in this region. The lake can also be reached from the Ira Spring/Defiance Peak trail No. 1009, another long approach definitely not recommended with snow.

On our way back the glare-ice had melted; of that we were glad. We met only one other party on the trail; a couple with plans to summit Revolution Peak, a lesser-known peak in the region.

To get there: From Seattle head east on I-90, get off at Exit 34, turn left onto 468th Ave, continue for about a half mile to SE Middle Fork Road (Forest Service Road No. 56). Continue about two miles to the Mailbox Peak trailhead and park or drive a little beyond (less than ½ mile) to a gated DNR road (right) with limited parking. A Discovery Pass is required at both trailheads. The road is less than .5 mile past the Mailbox Peak trailhead.

The suggested map is : Green Trails No. 2065 Mount Si NRCA. For general information on the Department of Natural Resources regarding recreation call 360-902-1000. Granite Lakes is on DNR land – Thompson Lake lies within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and is managed by the United States Forest Service (USFS).

Karen Sykes