To the tune of: "I don't get around much anymore"

That's not totally true. Let's just say that I haven't been anywhere "interesting" in the mountains for what is beginning to feel like a very long time. The cost of gas, the weather, avalanche danger, aging cars .... so to keep fit I've been running and do so about three times a week, sometimes four. When I start hiking again (if it ever stops raining) I'll run less often. However, I am feeling good about the running - my longest run to date is 12.5 miles, almost a Half Marathon. I'm considering the Seattle Half Marathon this fall.

The other activity that keeps me moreorless sane is my enjoyment of photography. I don't venture far these days so I often revisit the same places but always find something "new" to photograph or at least a "new" way of looking at something I've photographed in the past.

Places I return to frequently include the Pike Place Public Market, the Volunteer Park Conservatory, Jack Block Park (a Port of Seattle park in West Seattle), Alki, little parks along Beach Drive SW in West Seattle and just around the neighborhood pea-patches. Another favorite place: Georgetown. I'm sure I could come up with more but the truth is, I'm still not getting outside enough to be my usual happy self and at times I feel "dull" for lack of a better word.

The weather lately has been demoralizing to say the least. It looks like it's going to be another short summer with snow lingering in the mountains too long. Just about the time the snow melted LAST year the days were already getting shorter.

Sometimes you just can't win but you gotta keep going.

Granite Mountain, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, October 2011

GRANITE MOUNTAIN (Alpine Lakes Wilderness)

We have a love/hate relationship with the Granite Mountain Trail. It’s a hard hike for many with significant elevation gain and mileage; the reward for the toil is worth it for hikers who stick to it. Those who have hiked to Granite Mountain and the Granite Mountain lookout on a regular basis get to know each switchback by name (we’ve never counted them) and after several trips over the years we look for the tree that designates the beginning of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Our hike yesterday (10-17) was no exception though the weather was exceptionally good for mid-October. Though it was cool in the shade when we started by the time we were out of the forest and onto the open slopes of Granite Mountain the sun was warm and the fall colors so intense it looked like the mountain was on fire.

The first stretch of the trail – as many trails in the Pacific Northwest – starts out in forest but this is old forest, quiet and deep. When you get to the junction for Pratt Lake/Granite Mountain go straight uphill – you’d turn left if you were heading to Pratt Lake.

Still in the forest the trail continues its intense climb and eventually enters the Alpine Lakes Wilderness (designated by a sign). The foliage thins out a bit and there are a few peeks ahead to blue sky and swatches of fall color.

Views improve every step of the way – this is high country at its finest with views down to I-90 and McClellan Butte resembling a great bird with its wings spread about to soar. The trail continues through the Halloween candy colors of fall – the blueberry shrubs were turning red; some still held bountiful berries. The beargrass that lined the trail earlier in the season has lost it’s white plume of a flower but the ragged, skeletal stalks remain amidst bright pockets of mountain ash, hanging meadows with occasional white snags and then looking very far away – the lookout comes into view.

The climbing relents as the trail approaches two small tarns in a meadow; the fall colors above the tarns were reflected in the water. The tarns are the ideal spot for a break before girding yourself for a still-steep ascent.

From the tarns the trail spurts upward again then winds more gently through large boulders and meadows. The lookout appears again, still looking very far away though it’s closer than it looks.

The trail relents again and is level for a bit before one more steep push through forest to a boulder field; then suddenly you are there. The lookout is closed for the season but there are plenty of places to settle and the views will take what breath remains away.

First we stopped for lunch at the lookout; where it was warm and sunny enough that a chipmunk popped up from the rocks and dashed about hoping for handouts. From there we enjoyed views of Mount Rainier amidst a sea of undulating ridges and Mount Adams further to the south.

Two companions opted to hike the trail back to the tarns; three of us opted for the scramble route on boulders to the tarns where we’d rendezvous. The scramble is not particularly dangerous though good balance and some off-trail hiking experience comes in handy. Later in the year when snow falls, the scramble route over the boulders becomes hazardous as snow fills in crevices between the rocks and it’s all too easy to twist an ankle or worse.

We suggest you hike this trail soon – once significant snow accumulates the trail becomes dangerous in the open areas and avalanches can roar down without warning.
However, with a dusting of snow the hike can still be done and is spectacular then, especially when there is still fall color (watch for ice as temperatures drop).

As always never hike beyond your comfort level and always tell someone where you are hiking and when you are expected to return.

The map is Green Trails No. 207 Snoqualmie Pass.

Domerie Divide Trail (Easton)

June 16, 2011

DOMERIE DIVIDE TO MOUNT BALDY JUNCTION (June 13, 2011)

After parking at the trailhead (Kachess Ridge/Easton Ridge) we turned right onto a short path that leads to an old camping area along Silver Creek then walked upstream a bit to cross the creek on a bridge. The hike to Domerie Divide begins on the Easton Ridge trail.

In mid-June the wildflowers start at the trailhead with Calypso orchids still in bloom, flowering currant and chocolate lilies. Trilliums are winding down, Solomon’s seal and Oregon grape flowers replacing them. Vanilla leaf is coming out, adding a sweet scent to the heady blend of Ponderosa pines. We also saw arnica, luina and Solomon’s seal and penstemon.

After climbing a few switchbacks the trail meets a gravel road (about 2,700 feet). We turned left onto the road (no trail signs). After the road makes a switchback look for an obvious (unsigned) trail uphill (left) – that’s the Easton Ridge trail. The next stretch is mostly in forest but there are a few views of Kachess Lake as the trail begins to climb more steeply. Here we encountered more vanilla leaf, Solomon’s seal, Calypso orchids and arnica.

We reached the trail junction (signed) at 3,400 feet (per the Green Trails map). Easton Ridge Trail No. 1212 (right) Domerie Divide Trail No. 1308-2 is to the left. We turned left onto the Domerie Divide trail and almost immediately hiked into what could only be described as a natural wind tunnel. It felt more like November than mid-June. We bypassed viewpoints where we usually stop in our attempt to escape the wind.

Shortly after passing overlooks the trail rockets straight up (no switchbacks). This is one of the steepest trails in the region but flower-dotted outcroppings provide views and an opportunity to catch your breath.

As you climb look for glacier lilies, lupine, phlox, spring beauties, Douglas lewisia, bitterroot (not yet in bloom) and balsamroot. As the trail climbs tread grows thin and it becomes more difficult for boots to get good purchase -- trekking poles may come in handy. Mount Baldy (5,107 feet) comes into view (right) and there are also views down to Easton Ridge.

We’d hoped to get to Mount Baldy once we reached Domerie Divide but snow patches gave hints of what lie ahead, not a good sign. We got to the crest of the ridge (4,800 feet) between Mount Baldy and Thomas Mountain. At that point there’s still a lot of snow, the kind of snow that makes route finding tricky (the snow is hard and covered with pine-needles).

On a clear day there are partial views of Cle Elum Lake - look behind you for the trailhead sign nailed to a tree. Trail No. 1308 (Domerie Peak Trail) continues along the ridge (left) and after losing elevation climbs to Thomas Mountain. We turned right for Mount Baldy but soon turned around due to the snow.

Trail data: It is about 5.6 miles round trip to the junction with Mount Baldy/Thomas Mountain with about 2,830 feet of elevation gain. The maps are Green Trails No. 208 Kachess Lake and Green Trails No. 240 Easton.

To get there: From Seattle take I-90 east and turn off at Exit 70 (Easton). Drive over the freeway and turn left onto a frontage road signed Kachess Dam Road and proceed to Forest Service Road No. 4818, turn right. Stay on Road No. 4818 to an unsigned road junction and turn right – continue about ½ mile to the trailhead, elevation 2,400 feet, no facilities. A Northwest Forest Pass is required.

Additional information: Cle Elum Ranger District (509-852-1100).

West Fork Miller River, mid-April 2010

West Fork Miller River (mid-April, 2010)

Hikers with cross-country hiking and route-finding skills will get a kick out of this hike as will history buffs; it’s not a hike for a novice.

It’s not the mileage or the elevation gain that make it a challenge; it’s the rugged terrain. The “hike” is an old road that it is becoming trail-like over time; this road will never be repaired – it is the kind of place where likely the only other people you might run into are fishermen, hunters and those looking for old mines.

For some, a place like this is a hiker’s paradise. The terrain is so scenic it’s hard to take it all in. For starters, the road parallels the West Fork of the Miller River for quite a way (nothing but clichés come close to describing the essence of a wild river), huge old growth trees, wildflowers (in season), boulders dripping with beaded moss and ferns, some with overhangs deep enough to provide shade for bears and such. The biggest tree we saw was a cedar tree; you can’t miss it, it’s on the right-hand side of the road, not very far from the trailhead.

Did I say trailhead? There is not a designated trailhead per se; nor is there a sign, not even a road number. However, it is easy to find if you want to find it (see driving directions below).

The scenery is not the only thing that will slow a hiker down – watching where you place your feet will also take concentration. Parts of the road resemble a stream; in fact, are a stream, especially the first mile or so. In April we did not have to cross raging torrents or resort to wading shoes but rock-hopping on slippery rock skills will come in handy. You might want to bring poles - again, nothing dangerous, just painstaking.

In late April flowers are becoming to bloom; trilliums, bleeding hearts, yellow violets were prevalent, especially along the first mile or so. There is also an ideal campsite a few steps from the “trailhead” above the river with a campfire ring.

There are several blowouts where streams came down and tore up the road. Avalanche activity, stream blowouts and floods have completely taken out sections of the road but again, not impassible.

When the fall rains return (or the spring snow melt) you may not be able to safely negotiate crossing these gullies and streams. You’ll have to check that out yourself; you won’t find trail conditions of this place at ranger stations or in guidebooks.

As the forest opens up cliffs comes into view on the right-hand side of the road. These are impressive cliffs indeed. A little further along a waterfall comes into view (right); to the best of our knowledge it is without a name.



The Cascade Mountain massif comes into view on the left side of the road as elevation is gained. At about our half-way point the road climbs above the river where you can see an enormous landslide or avalanche has taken a huge bite out of the landscape; it must have been a devastating climatic event to cause that amount of chaos. The slope all the way down to the river is composed of nothing but downed trees and debris. Past the avalanche debris the road returns to forest and is road-like for a while. We soon began to encounter snow with fresh boot prints (there had been one other car at the trailhead) and wondered if we would encounter other hikers before turnaround. Later we did meet the other hikers – they turned out to be a couple of young fishermen.

We also noticed a few cairns beside the road – where do they lead? Old mines? Secret campsites? Seldom-climbed summits?? Following the cairns is no easy task for a hiker; such temptations are best left to those with scrambling skills and in-depth knowledge of the topography.

Those who know how to do so safely can ferret out mines that can be accessed from the West Fork Miller River Road but proceed with caution – entering old mines can be dangerous and the terrain rugged. Hiking cross-country above the old road is about as far away as you can get from even a strenuous hike. According to what we have read from other sources, none of the mines are easily accessible.

Past the big landslide the road pulled away from the river through forest; here the road was in relatively good shape and out of harm’s way. The last mile or so was mostly in snow; not deep enough for snowshoes.

When we got to Coney Creek there was no safe way to get across. The creek was running high and wild; rock hopping would be impossible (upon more research we read an account where someone almost got swept down the creek while attempting to ford). This, Coney Creek is probably the logical turnaround point for most hikers.

Another caution; watch out for the resident bear. We almost met him on our way back to the trailhead. About ½ mile from the trailhead we stopped at a large boulder with an overhang; an ideal spot to pose a friend for a photograph. Silverback agreed to pose – I could not hear him about the sound of the river but just before getting into a sitting position under the overhang he yelled “Pinocchio!” to make sure there wasn’t an animal inside.

He reasoned that if there was an echo, there was “nobody” home. Much to his surprise he heard muffled snarls and snorts (which I could not hear) so I couldn’t understand why he was backing away from the overhang until he said there was a bear inside. We backed away slowly from the cave then picked up our pace, turning around every so often to make sure we weren’t being followed. We weren’t.

Don’t make the mistake we did – we should have known better. Make sure there’s “nobody” home if you think crawling under an overhang is a good idea.

6.7 miles round trip to Coney Creek, elevation gain about 1,000 feet

To get there head east on US 2 toward Stevens Pass and in about 1.9 miles past Skykomish and just past the Skykomish Ranger Station turn right onto Money Creek Road. The road is in good condition for passenger cars as of late April 2010. In about 3.5 miles from US 2, look for a green gate barring vehicular access to an old forest service road (right) and park in the unofficial parking area near the gate (no Northwest Forest Pass required). The old road that serves as “trail” is not signed.

Marten Creek Trail, Mountain Loop, April 25, 2010

MARTEN CREEK TRAIL (MOUNTAIN LOOP)

Marten Creek Trail to View of Three Fingers

The Marten Creek trail is a lonesome trail; perhaps it always has been except when miners worked the region in hopes of striking it rich. Mines remain today but are known only to a few but their handiwork remains – old puncheon, wooden bridges. The area around Marten Creek is riddled with old trails/roads, baffling to hikers over the years as they did their best to get to rumored-Granite Pass with views of Three Fingers, Liberty and Anaconda Peaks. Did one of the old roads once extend to the Darrington region? There are questions to be raised; questions, perhaps, that may never be answered.

What is true about Marten Creek is the beautiful, deep forest, site of the first experimental forest plantation (established in 1915) after a major forest fire destroyed much of Long Mountain. Signs along the first mile of the trail designate the year and place seedlings were planted.

A sign at the trailhead informs visitors that an Eagle Scout Project has worked or is working on a trail project. Details are unknown to us (the sign was mostly blank) though we suspect trail maintenance because this is the best shape the trail (road) has been in since my first visit back in the 1980s..

A road-bridge project on The Mountain Loop (from Granite Falls) makes parking a little difficult; find a wide place near to park near the highway, don’t block road equipment. Hopefully the trailhead sign will be back in place in the near future. Though the trailhead sign is not visible display the NW Forest Pass just in case the Forest Service takes a gander at vehicles parked at trailheads.

The hike starts out on an old road that once led to mines and passes the designated Experimental Forest Plantation by the Forest Service, the first of its kind in the country. Between evergreens of various ages/origins are boulders that broke away from peaks above before the trees took root.

We looked for and found a bus-sized boulder on the road/trail where a tree is growing on top. The boulder has been described in the out-of-print “Monte Cristo Area” by Harry M. Majors and Richard McCollum. It’s fun to find points of interest others have written about; we also found the remains of an old wooden bridge also mentioned in the book.

Marten Creek is on the west (downhill side) and at times can be glimpsed through the trees. Vague paths – mostly game trails – veer off into the green-gray glooms of the forest where they either die in brush or lead to forgotten campsites.

At about 3 miles the trail breaks out of the forest and the summit ridge of Three Fingers comes into view through the thinning evergreens. The forested peak beside it is Anaconda Peak (a high point of Gordon Ridge).

The trail was in fair condition to that point; we hoped to be able to follow it all the way to Granite Pass but our hopes were dashed. At about 3-1/4 miles from the trailhead we lost the trail altogether in a Rorschach mess of snow, downed trees, rocks and brush. We satisfied ourselves with the fine view of Three Fingers (3,875 feet) and resolved to return – when the snow melts, before the shrubs leaf out.

There were (are?) old trails – or wagon roads – on both sides of the Marten Creek valley. I remember years ago the trail crossed Marten Creek and dead-ended in brush. My memory might not be correct but it felt like we got closer to Granite Pass this time than in the mid to late 1980’s when we followed the “other” trail that ran up the valley closer to the creek. More recent trail reports indicate that the road (trail) we were on does cross Marten Creek before getting to Granite Pass. That makes sense but just how to get to that crossing is another matter.

The hike to our turnaround point is 6-1/2 miles round trip with 1,400 feet of elevation gain.

Kachess Ridge Trail, August 12, 2009

Kachess Ridge Trail No. 1315 (August 12, 2009)

We needed a break from Mount Rainier (not because we don’t love it but because it’s a long drive). Besides, weather was marginal at best.

If I had a $20 bill for every time we’ve turned off I-90 at Exit 70 to access the trailhead for Kachess Ridge (Easton Ridge, Domerie Divide, Thomas Mountain, etc), we could take a long vacation. I admit it’s been a while since I’ve trekked up to the high point of Easton Ridge on snowshoes but it’s still first on my list of places to go when spring flowers begin to appear and it’s sunny on the east side. In summer not so much – there are too many other places to go and the “trails of Easton” are accessible earlier and later in the year than many other favorites.

As is often the case there was no one else at the trailhead – a good thing, really – because there’s room for only 4-6 cars. The trail doesn’t give you a chance to warm up; it takes off at a steep run – straight up. The trail is shared with mountain bikes; at times we encountered loose rocks over a thin layer of dirt. It’s more of a challenge going down this trail than climbing.

Steep switchbacks climb to partial views of rocky ridges. A side trail at the end of a switchback leads to a nice viewpoint of the valley below (for a view of Lake Kachess continue on a scramble path to higher points along the ridge).

The main trail keeps climbing until it turns (left) into the Silver Creek valley – here the creek announces itself with a splashy waterfall and an alluring but potentially dangerous path leading to its base. We continued following the main trail, at times within sight of the creek, at times within sound.

Just a bit past the signed trail junction for the Kachess Beacon trail, you’ll reach the first crossing of Silver Creek – there are several crossings, some of them dry. The first crossing is the worst but in August it’s not too bad.

After crossing the creek the trail alternates between shaggy, pocket meadows and forested sections. Many flowers have gone to seed but we saw Monkshood, cow parsnip, arnica, mountain daisies, yarrow, fireweed, a little columbine and splash of monkey flowers near a rivulet.

At one point the trail has been detoured to pass the site of what appears to have been a huge avalanche; trees on the far slope look like the proverbial matchsticks or pick-up-sticks hurled by an angry giant.

Memory is a tricky thing at best; I remembered meadows big as football fields below the West Peak of Kachess Ridge; I was looking forward to showing these “big” meadows to my Bob and Silverback. After what seemed an endless climb with no sign of a meadow anywhere we stopped for a break; Silverback said he’d catch up. I said we’d wait at the big meadow.

We soon came to a small meadow; certainly not the Ponderosa-sized meadow I remembered so we kept on hiking, passing the Silver Tie trail (that trail will have to wait for another day).

The trail kept going; and so did we until it dawned on me there was no “big meadow” and we were not far from the pass below West Peak and another peak (without a name but certainly worth of one).

Thinking that Silverback wouldn’t catch us and seeing the pass within reach we climbed up to it and took a break. Hence we were surprised when within 5 minutes Silverback appeared through the mist and joined us. Having a snack had given him the stamina he needed to get to the pass. It was chilly and starting to drizzle; our visit was short.

I’d like to say I scampered up a side trail on the peak-without-a-name to a viewpoint of Red Mountain but it was truly more of a trudge. The side-trail continued but time was running out.

Incidentally you can get to this “pass” by a system of logging roads from Salmon la Sac (we don’t know the condition of the roads). Also a 12.8-mile loop (from/to Easton) in this mostly forgotten land is described in “Best Loop Hikes Washington” (Mountaineer Books) – it is called West Peak/Thomas Mountain. I won’t describe this loop – I haven’t done it but hope to try it soon.

As for our sorry butts we returned the way we came, wondering as we often do why a hike feels so much longer on the way out than going in, even when it was mostly downhill.

This doesn’t sound like a compelling hike but we like it – folks seldom hike here and though this land has been logged, it still has a wild and lonely feel that other places near Teanaway and Salmon la Sac do not. There are ridges to run and explore, peaks to climb (even those without a name!) and meadows that are lush enough to attract deer, elk and the occasional lonely photographer.

Getting to the trailhead: From Seattle take I-90 east and turn off at Exit 70. Drive over the freeway and turn left onto a frontage road signed Kachess Dam Road and proceed to Forest Service Road No. 4818 and turn right. Continue to an unsigned junction; turn right. From there it is just a hop, skip and jump to the not so obvious trailhead near Silver Creek. There are no facilities but display your Northwest Forest Pass anyway. Follow a short little path to the signed trailhead for Easton Ridge and Kachess Ridge. Easton Ridge is to the right (you cross Silver Creek on a footbridge). Kachess Ridge is straight uphill.

Maps: Green Trails Kachess Lake No. 208. Call the Cle Elum Ranger District at 509-852-1100 for road and trail conditions.

Stats: About 2,600 feet elevation gain, 11-1/2 miles (round trip)

Chiwaukum Creek, June 12, 2009

A Disappointment - Chiwaukum Creek - June 12, 2009

Twice, this trail has not met my expectations.

The first time was early September in 2008, when friends and I hiked there to celebrate the annual Unbirthday hike. I’ve always loved that trail and therefore was disappointed not only in the lack of views, lack of flowers but a crossing of Chiwaukum Creek that was too dicey for most of us, necessitating a turnaround. Since it was a day hike and not a backpack, we wouldn’t have had time to climb into higher country where flowers are at a premium.

I’ve so loved this trail that I included it in “Best Wildflower Hikes, Washington” co-authored with Art Kruckeberg (Professor Emeritus of Botany, University of Washington). Kruckeberg, as always, painted detailed, lovely verbal portraits of flowers you may encounter on this trail. However, timing is everything on this hike.

This year you may find July flowers on June hikes – or vice versa. In June this year we found few flowers, none exceptional other than Tweedy’s lewisia. Even Tweedy’s lewisia was anything but fresh – it was already dried out, past its prime. This, despite a report a mere week ago that hailed this trail as a wildflower hike.

Backpackers who can cross Chiwaukum Creek on a logjam will probably encounter glorious wildflowers at higher elevations. Once safely across the creek (oh, how I miss that bridge!) backpackers or strong hikers can continue to Timothy Meadows or Chiwaukum and Larch Lakes. Even far beyond. Day hikers in search of wildflowers will want to seek elsewhere – this is not the trail for wildflowers.

Years ago the hike started beside Chiwaukum Creek – today the trailhead has been moved further away from the creek. The best part of the lower elevation stretch of the trail is now private property. The trail drops down to the creek only a few times within that first 4-5 miles. It is for the most part, a forest walk.

As for the flowers; there are some. We spotted a few clusters of wasted Tweedy’s lewisia, spent trilliums and a wee bit of Mertensia, such puny blooms it was hard to decide whether they were old or just getting started. We spotted a bit of wild ginger, Solomon’s seal (at its peak), lupine, Indian paintbrush, Western star and fresh bead lily (our favorite), serviceberry, yarrow, luina (past bloom). We were frustrated because we knew the best wildflower displays were beyond our reach.

My partner, Silverback, took a break as I hurried on in hopes of finding more flowers before turnaround (to no avail). Though Silverback downplays it, his quick thinking may have saved my life. On our way out I didn’t hear the warning rattle. The stream was loud and my hearing isn’t what it used to be. He was hiking a couple steps ahead and startled me when he turned around, called my name and suddenly lifted me off the trail. It all happened too fast to coherently recount but apparently he heard the rattle, by the time it registered it was rattlesnake, it had coiled as I approached it (about two feet away from me), so he instinctively grabbed me. Looking over my shoulder he watched the snake uncoil and disappear into the vegetation. The encounter was a little too close for us; be aware and watch, listen for rattlesnakes if you hike/backpack here.

We stopped at the 59 Diner, a favorite eatery of hikers (and everyone else) near Coles Corner. Still frustrated at our lack of photography, we stopped at Skykomish and spent time there photographing the (closed) Skykomish Hotel and other abandoned buildings/homes. We picked up a brochure (a walking tour of Skykomish) and plan to go back when we have more time. It looks like the little town is getting ready to celebrate the 4th of July.