Granite Mountain, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, October 2011

GRANITE MOUNTAIN (Alpine Lakes Wilderness)

We have a love/hate relationship with the Granite Mountain Trail. It’s a hard hike for many with significant elevation gain and mileage; the reward for the toil is worth it for hikers who stick to it. Those who have hiked to Granite Mountain and the Granite Mountain lookout on a regular basis get to know each switchback by name (we’ve never counted them) and after several trips over the years we look for the tree that designates the beginning of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Our hike yesterday (10-17) was no exception though the weather was exceptionally good for mid-October. Though it was cool in the shade when we started by the time we were out of the forest and onto the open slopes of Granite Mountain the sun was warm and the fall colors so intense it looked like the mountain was on fire.

The first stretch of the trail – as many trails in the Pacific Northwest – starts out in forest but this is old forest, quiet and deep. When you get to the junction for Pratt Lake/Granite Mountain go straight uphill – you’d turn left if you were heading to Pratt Lake.

Still in the forest the trail continues its intense climb and eventually enters the Alpine Lakes Wilderness (designated by a sign). The foliage thins out a bit and there are a few peeks ahead to blue sky and swatches of fall color.

Views improve every step of the way – this is high country at its finest with views down to I-90 and McClellan Butte resembling a great bird with its wings spread about to soar. The trail continues through the Halloween candy colors of fall – the blueberry shrubs were turning red; some still held bountiful berries. The beargrass that lined the trail earlier in the season has lost it’s white plume of a flower but the ragged, skeletal stalks remain amidst bright pockets of mountain ash, hanging meadows with occasional white snags and then looking very far away – the lookout comes into view.

The climbing relents as the trail approaches two small tarns in a meadow; the fall colors above the tarns were reflected in the water. The tarns are the ideal spot for a break before girding yourself for a still-steep ascent.

From the tarns the trail spurts upward again then winds more gently through large boulders and meadows. The lookout appears again, still looking very far away though it’s closer than it looks.

The trail relents again and is level for a bit before one more steep push through forest to a boulder field; then suddenly you are there. The lookout is closed for the season but there are plenty of places to settle and the views will take what breath remains away.

First we stopped for lunch at the lookout; where it was warm and sunny enough that a chipmunk popped up from the rocks and dashed about hoping for handouts. From there we enjoyed views of Mount Rainier amidst a sea of undulating ridges and Mount Adams further to the south.

Two companions opted to hike the trail back to the tarns; three of us opted for the scramble route on boulders to the tarns where we’d rendezvous. The scramble is not particularly dangerous though good balance and some off-trail hiking experience comes in handy. Later in the year when snow falls, the scramble route over the boulders becomes hazardous as snow fills in crevices between the rocks and it’s all too easy to twist an ankle or worse.

We suggest you hike this trail soon – once significant snow accumulates the trail becomes dangerous in the open areas and avalanches can roar down without warning.
However, with a dusting of snow the hike can still be done and is spectacular then, especially when there is still fall color (watch for ice as temperatures drop).

As always never hike beyond your comfort level and always tell someone where you are hiking and when you are expected to return.

The map is Green Trails No. 207 Snoqualmie Pass.

In Search of Color, Talapus and Olallie Lakes

October 13, 2011

Today the two Bob's and I trudged to Talapus Lake. Trudged? Well ... yes. One Bob is recovering from a cold (as am I) and the other Bob is still getting used to heart medication. Plus, a summer of hard hiking has caught up to me as well as another blankety-blank birthday. I'm getting long in the tooth - how did that happen?

It felt like fall today. A chilly morning and cold in the shadows. No fall color until we reached the trailhead; then a visual shout of fall color right there. That whetted our appetite for more.

For some strange reason I find the trail system to Talapus/Olallie lakes confusing; that's perhaps due to the social trails that weave in and out of the main trail and near the lakes. No matter, we made it to both after one false turn.

We didn't see any more fall color until we reached Talapus Lake; the view of the lake and the surrounding boulder fields was stunning. Perhaps we should have called it a day there - it was a pretty scene but we were greedy and wanted more.

On to Lake Olallie where there was little color but there were wisps of mist rising from the lake as if they were living entities (perhaps they were). Again, we had the lake to ourselves and even in the sun it was chilly. The mountain ash was still green; there was only a smattering of dull orange on talus slopes above the lake. Nothing as vivid as the trailhead!

Most of the hike was/is in the forest with several sections of boardwalks in various ages of repair, none lethally slick. No formidable stream crossings, no wildlife sightings, no other hikers until we were on the way down. There are some handsome old-growth trees here and there, vine maple, Canadian dogwood (sans berries), fading vanilla leaf, bead lily without the bead. The forest looks old and feels old too.

If you hike this trail notice the moss-covered trail sign not far from the trailhead. It's been there for a long time. It may even be older than us.

Karen

Oh yeah - the stats (7 miles with 1,350 feet gain but that includes some lost time and additional gain on the network of social trails near Talapus Lake.)

Granite Mountain, October 4, 2009

Granite Mountain, October 4, 2009


Even with an early start this popular trailhead was so full I had to park along the frontage road. Well, I can’t blame anyone for wanting to get high (no pun intended) on what could be one of the last warm autumn days of the year.

Usually I can cope with crowds on popular trails but there were so many hikers on the trail today that I felt annoyed (mostly at myself for being there in the first place). At times it was almost like being in a queue at the bank and the only chance for any kind of solitude was to go off trail in the lower basin.

I made good time (for me) to the marker for the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Then I began to slow down as the scenery began to open up and the fall color began. I’m not sure how to gauge this years’ fall color in comparison to other years but some of the vegetation at lower elevations seemed more dead than colorful. The higher I went, the better the color, especially the reds.

The conditions were perfect for hiking this steep, rocky trail – cool, crisp and sunny. No one could complain about the weather. By the time I got to the lower basin with the tarns I was in need of a rest and solitude so I found a nice boulder off trail and hung out there for a while before getting back in line to reach the summit.

There’s a little bit of snow in the upper basin and just before the lookout; if there’s a hard freeze this could complicate the last stretch. Yesterday, the sun was warm enough that it was just snow, not ice. The lookout is closed for the year.

There was a large group of hikers gathered under the lookout, hikers here and there, just about everywhere on the summit rocks and a little below. After sitting for a while and eating lunch I “caught” the “good cheer” all around me. Everyone seemed happy – even those who chose to sit alone on a rock and gaze into the distance.

The walk back down was uneventful though I felt a little sadness at leaving Granite Mountain, perhaps for the last time this season. It’s not an easy place to get to at my age (for some, not at any age) and once I’m there, I find it hard to leave.

Getting to the trailhead: Go east on I-90 from Seattle to Exit 47, turn left over the freeway, left again into the Granite Mountain/Pratt Lake parking lot. Pray for a parking spot.

Stats: 8 miles round trip – 3,800 feet gain (according to “100 Hikes in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness”. I didn’t bring the GPS today.

Iron Peak, September 8, 2009

Iron Peak (Teanaway, Alpine Lakes Wilderness) September 8, 2009

Iron Peak is one of my all-time favorite hikes. It’s only about 7 miles round trip to the Iron Peak saddle (8 miles round trip to the summit).

The trail is in excellent condition and with views the entire way. We only encountered two people (mid-week); bow and arrow hunters on horseback. The flowers are just about gone but the views are as outstanding as ever.

The trail is partially in the forest – alas, so much of the forest has been devastated by infestations of pine bark beetles. Trees that were once green are now mahogany-colored – the beetles mostly seem to be attacking white pines and lodge pole pine in this region. Fire resistant Douglas firs seem able to resist the onslaught, at least along the lower to middle elevations of this trail.

It was a perfect day for hiking – sunny, warm and clear. We stopped at the “pass”, marveling at the array of colors in the rocks. From the pass we continued another half mile or so to the summit where the views of Mount Stuart and Mount Rainier are startlingly clear.

Here Florida Bob and Silverback signed their first summit registers. The summit register was pretty full; this is a popular and accessible summit. I was glad the register was there for them to sign – I remember what a thrill it was to sign a summit register the first time.

We lingered as long as we could, snacking, lazing and admiring the beauty surrounding us. Between the pass and the summit we saw bluebirds, ladybugs, lichen-splattered rocks, remnants of summer flowers, endemic ferns still blooming in the golden rocks along the summit ridge.

It had been a perfect, golden day.

Approach: Teanaway River Road (Road No. 9737), Iron Peak trailhead (just short of the Esmerelda/Ingalls Lake parking lot at the end of the road).

Stats: About 8 miles round trip, 2,700 feet gain – map (Green Trails No. 209, Mount Stuart).

Snow Lake, August 28, 2009

Snow Lake (Alpine Lakes) August 28

Since just about every hiker in the Pacific Northwest has been to Snow Lake this report will be brief. It may be the most popular, most-often visited trail in Washington and is justifiably so. Where else can one find such a beautiful trail only an hour away from Seattle?

That being said we were dismayed to find the trailhead toilet at the Snow Lake trailhead in such disarray and so filthy we could not bear to use it. We understand that land management agencies have had money and staff slashed to the bone but to abandon this privy seems “overkill”. This is a trail that is hiked on a regular basis by many; it is the first “serious” trail a new hiker may undertake, the first trail a visitor from another state is apt to visit (the trail is heralded in all forms of media past and present).

It is not only the land management agencies at fault; they did not leave the fetid piles of trash inside to be discovered by unwary visitors – though the odor as one approaches may suggest an alternate place to “go” (such as nearby vegetation – how’s that for keeping the wilderness pure?). For the time being we suggest stopping at “Travelers Rest” at Snoqualmie Pass before parking at the trailhead (just to be on the safe side).

As for us, we “passed” on using the outhouse and warned others who were approaching the trailhead.

The trail is in good condition, the vegetation poised between summer and fall. There are too few flowers to call it Summer; not enough fall color yet to call it Fall. Sadly, much of the vegetation that would turn brilliant color in fall has simply died due to lack of rain. Leaves that should be red and gold may never get brighter than “brown”. The berries are still plentiful, especially on the “old” trail to the lake.

At the trail junction for the Source Lake “overlook” and Snow Lake, we continued toward the Source Lake overlook. Even if you are not hiking the “old” trail to the lake this is a pleasant stretch of trail where you may find (and enjoy) some solitude. You may run into a climber or two heading for – or back – from the Tooth or other airy goals. Perhaps even another hiker (just like you) who also prefers avoiding crowds.

The “old” trail begins above the overlook on a sketchy path (or two) up a steep, rubble-strewn hillside held together by loose rocks and scraps of vegetation. If in doubt, look for a cairn (you are aiming for a more discernible path below the “waterfall”). As for that waterfall, in summer it is merely a trickle but you’ll know soon enough if you’ve scrambled too high.

We went a little too high on the scrabble path but memory served me well; we descended a bit and spotted the old trail just where it should be – “under” the waterfall (now mostly damp boulders).

From there the old trail is relatively easy to follow through patches of vegetation, mountain ash, evergreens, small meadows (some even sporting gentians!) to the ridge where the regular trail climbs to a pass before it drops to Snow Lake. However, the old trail drops a little below the pass (below “lunch rock”) where it meets the regular trail. This time of year there are no difficulties of any kind on the trail.

Once on the regular trail we hiked down to Snow Lake and took a few photographs (it’s hard to get a poor picture of Snow Lake on a nice day). We stopped at the chimney of the old cabin where part of a wall still stands; surrounded by blazing fireweed still in bloom. We followed the lakeshore trail partway around the lake; not surprised to find most “prime” viewing spots already “taken” (even on a weekday).

From the lake we hiked the regular trail back to the trailhead, stopping at the privy to see if anyone had stopped by to clean it up.

Nope.