Covel Creek Falls Trail No. 228, South Cascades

COVEL CREEK FALLS (Trail No. 228/228A - Gifford-Pinchot National Forest, South Cascades) Any hiker who has hiked this trail will tell you it’s a spectacular hike but ask someone how to spell Covel Falls you might get different answers. Nobody seems to agree on how to spell “Covel” including land-management agencies. No matter: though the map, trail signs and hiking guides can’t seem to come to an agreement all peevishness will come to an end once you reach the waterfall. For that matter you can even refer to this waterfall as Curtain Falls or Phantom Falls, two other monikers for this 75-foot high waterfall. Covel Creek is one three waterfalls in the Covel Creek drainage (Covel Creek drains into the Cispus River which then drains into the Cowlitz River). Covel Falls is the smallest of the three waterfalls. The other two waterfalls are Angel Falls and Bridal Veil Falls. Covel Creek Falls felt akin to Tunnel Creek Falls in the Columbia Gorge, another hike where the trail goes behind a waterfall. We parked at the Cispus Learning Center in Randle and stopped in at their office to pick up a trail map which caused us some confusion finding the trail – plus, the trail is not as well-signed as it could be as several unmarked paths wind in and out of the grounds. Per the advice of a person in the office we started out on the 0.6-mile Braille Trail (Trail for the Blind), a unique, one-of-a-kind trail that enables those with impaired vision to experience the forest through touch and other senses. The Braille Trail is not only interesting on its own; it is also the easiest place to find the trail to Covel Falls. Hike clockwise on the Braille Trail until you come to the “Forest Loop” sign. Walk up the broad, smooth trail to the left of the sign and continue to Covel Creek which you will cross on a footbridge. Past the creek the trail continues to climb at a moderate grade as the trail parallels the rambunctious creek and skirts several small waterfalls (some of those also seemed worthy of names). After a mile or so you’ll come to a signed junction (1,800 feet) where the Covel Creek Falls (Trail No. 228A) continues (right) and the Burley Mountain (Trail No. 256) goes left and becomes part of the Angel Falls Loop (you can hike the loop in either direction from this junction). We opted for Covel Creek Falls as that makes a scenic turnaround for hikers who don’t have time or energy for the loop. After a short drop the trail goes behind Covel Creek Falls – now you know why many call this waterfall Curtain Falls. Some hikers decry the safety rope that parallels that stretch of the trail behind the falls as it detracts from the splendor of the waterfall but you might as well take advantage of the rope, it was put there for a reason by the Forest Service. Since spray from the waterfall can render the trail muddy and slick it is not a place you’d want to fall. From Covel Falls you can continue on the next stretch of trail which is quite steep to Angel Falls to complete the 4.5-mile loop or hike back to the Cispus Learning Center the way you came. Since we didn’t have time to continue to Angel Falls we hiked back to the junction at 1,800 feet and hiked about a quarter of a mile of the trail (left) toward its junction with the Burley Mountain Trail (No. 256). Geologists as well as photographers will especially enjoy this stretch – it’s exciting and unique with vine maple reaching for the sky and growing wherever it can between tall, bulging cliffs tinted with different colors from lichen. Though the trail is narrow in spots it is not dangerous as long as you watch your step and avoid hiking under the cliffs in winter when there is some danger of falling chunks of ice or rocks. The cliffs have eroded in such a way that caves have formed under the rock where the cliffs overhang the trail. Though we didn’t have time to finish the loop (we had other commitments) we can attest after looking at photographs of Angel Falls that it would be worth your time to do so, especially if you are camping or lodging in/near Randle. If so you should have plenty of time to complete the Angel Falls loop. The Angel Falls loop is 4.5 miles round trip – the high point being Angel Falls at 1,950 feet. Getting there: From Randle on US 12 head south to State Route 131(Forest Service Road No. 25) for about one mile then turn left onto Forest Service Road No. 23. Continue about 10 miles then turn right onto Forest Service Road No. 28. In less than a mile turn right onto Forest Service Road No. 76 to the Cispus Learning Center. For additional information call Gifford Pinchot National Forest (Cowlitz Ranger District Station at 360-497-1100). The map is Green Trails No. 333 (McCoy Peak). Karen Sykes

Edgar Rock

EDGAR ROCK (SOUTH CASCADES) Edgar Rock is a volcanic plug from an ancient volcano that serves as a landmark near the community of Cliffdell on State Route 410. You can also hike to Edgar Rock on a short, scenic trail. The rock was named for John Edgar, an Army Scout killed in the 1850s during the Indian Wars. Edgar Rock was also the site of an 8 by 8-foot fire-lookout cabin put up in 1938 (destroyed in 1978). You can still see where the structure was placed atop the peak as evidenced by four anchors that held the cabin to the rock. Finding the trailhead is more challenging than the hike but worth the effort. The trailhead, is a wide spot on a narrow, forest service road with limited parking – plus, the sign for Lost Creek is almost “lost” in vegetation at the trailhead. If you end up in someone’s back yard you’ve driven too far! Once you find the trailhead, park and head right (uphill) on the trail. The hike starts out on the Lost Creek Trail No. 964 - only the last stretch of the hike is designated as the Edgar Rock Trail No. 964A. The trail starts off climbing through grassy, Ponderosa-pine forest and is in great condition. Near the trailhead look for pinedrops and ghostly Indian Pipe – these parasitic plants lack chlorophyll and depend on a working relationship with other plants to survive (look for them under Ponderosa pines). Also notice the bluebird boxes and heritage trees as the trail gradually climbs out of the forest. Heritage trees are specifically left in place for wildlife habitat. In July the wildflower displays lit up the landscape with vivid color ranging from the shocking blue of larkspur to the subtle pink of Nootka roses. Yellow composites (too many to name) are scattered across the landscape like gold coins – there are many yellow composites and they are hard to tell apart without a field guide. In early July balsamroot had passed its peak bloom but other flowers were just emerging from winters sleep. We saw buckwheat, yarrow, pinedrops, Indian paintbrush, Hooker’s onion, Nootka rose, penstemon, blue bells and a few we couldn’t identify. About a mile up the trail you’ll come across an odd relationship between a tree and two boulders. Here the boulders seemingly hold a tree in place at the edge of the trail – or is it the tree holding the boulders in place? You be the judge. Though this trail is often lonesome you might not have it to yourself. The trail is also open to mountain bikes, motorcycles and stock (closed to ATVs) though we’ve never met anyone else on the trail. According to the Naches District trail guide only the last 1/3 mile of the trail is designated as the Edgar Rock trail (Trail No. 964A). Though the junction isn’t signed the junction is obvious and hard to miss. At the junction, stay right, heading uphill, continue to Edgar Rock and enjoy views of the Nile valley and the American river below. The open country invites further exploration where faint trails beckon. We explored a side trail that led to a rocky area with numerous wildflower displays and a small natural arch. Though at first glance the topography above tree-line may appear desolate, look again, there’s life everywhere – wildflowers spring from crevices in the rocks and the sky is constantly changing, serene and blue one moment, dark and tumultuous the next. Even on a cloudy day humidity can be high – be cautious when the sky darkens and thunder rumbles, especially near Edgar Rock where the trail is exposed as it winds between boulders, weathered snags and outcroppings. Though the hike is short when humidity is high, even a short hike can feel strenuous when it’s muggy outside. Since this is a short hike it’s also good opportunity to visit the nearby Boulder Cave Day-Use Area. The driving directions are the same as for Edgar Rock except that when you reach the forest service road turn right, rather than left (follow signs to Boulder Cave). There is a $5 fee per vehicle to visit Boulder Cave (bring a flashlight). Getting there: From Chinook Pass drive east on SR 410 to River Road (Forest Service Road No. 1706) and turn right to cross Naches River. At Road No. 1704 turn left, continue past private cabins to a fork in the road – take the right fork which says “dead end” and that is Road 311 that leads to the Lost Creek trailhead. Park on the shoulder of road (there are no facilities). Display your Northwest Forest Pass and keep party size small as parking is limited. Map: Green Trails Old Scab Mountain No. 272. For additional information contact the Naches Ranger District (Okanogan-Wenatchee Forest) at 509-653-1401. Karen Sykes

Deep Creek Trail, May 2012

Deep Creek Trail No. 1196 (South Cascades) If you think you need to get in better condition for strenuous hikes before snow melts out on higher elevation trails this is the hike for you. The Deep Creek trail is a trail you can hike as little or as far as you’d like (strong hikers can hike to a junction with the Noble Knob trail when the Corral Pass Road is still snowbound). Refer to the maps for options. In May we expected to encounter snow well before the junction with the Noble Knob trail so we started from the White River (Trail No. 1199) trailhead on State Route 410. Though the Deep Creek trail is steep there are advantages starting from SR 410 – it’s an easy, pleasant 2-mile hike to the junction with the Deep Creek trail. And it’s scenic - en route to Deep Creek you’ll cross Ranger Creek and Dry Creek. The footbridges are all in good condition. There are also wildflowers along the trail including stream violets, vanilla leaf, rattlesnake plantain and trilliums at lower elevations. The hike starts out on the White River Trail a few feet above SR 410 (see getting there). The left fork leads to Camp Sheppard/Snoquera Falls, turn right for Deep Creek. You’ll soon cross Ranger Creek on a footbridge. After crossing the creek the trail contours above the highway through forest then crosses a talus slope before re-entering the forest. Watch for clumps of yellow stream-violets nestled near the streams. There’s nothing prettier than stream violets to herald spring and celebrate the melting snow. Stream violets bloom April through July in various settings and elevations. The trail crosses not-so-dry Dry Creek on another footbridge. In about ½ miles past Dry Creek the trail skirts a few cabins before it reaches the junction for the Deep Creek trail on the west side of a footbridge. Of the streams Deep Creek is the most dramatic – in May it was swollen with snow-melt falling in short, furious cascades over boulders, pushing its way between eroding banks where ancient trees defy the law of gravity and stand tall as if to keep the river within its banks. This is a spectacular setting and it’s also a good opportunity to refill your water bottles before you head uphill. As of this writing the trail sign for Deep Creek is lying beside the creek. You’ll also see a footbridge crossing Deep Creek but don’t cross Deep Creek unless you want to hike out to a lower trailhead along Forest Service Road No. 7174 (Corral Pass Road). The Deep Creek trail continues on the west side of Deep Creek and immediately starts climbing; some stretches are very steep. Below the junction for the Noble Knob trail there are only peek-a-boo views out to the White River valley, Mount Rainier, forested foothills and ridges. However, there is an overlook about a half mile from Deep Creek – find the unsigned path to the overlook at the end of a switchback though views are partially blocked by trees. It’s still a pretty setting to take a break before resuming the climb. Though we were denied the views we’d hoped for we took pleasure in the forest itself, a green concoction of evergreens, vine maple, salal, ferns, Oregon grape, vanilla leaf, trilliums, pipsissewa, rattlesnake plantain, false lily-of-the-valley, wood sorrel and yellow stream violets. We didn’t get to the Noble Knob Trail – we began to encounter snow. The snow was still deep enough to obscure the trail and route-finding became more challenging. We continued, looking for clues such as cut logs and old tracks but when we began to post-hole (break through the snow) we called it a day and made that point our turnaround (5,210 feet). We’d already gained over 3,700 feet of elevation – that much gain certainly qualifies as a “work-out”! Though we weren’t able to hike as far as we hoped in our books no hike is a failure. Early summer hikes are often referred to as “snow-line probers” by experienced hikers. Some hikers pack snowshoes for such conditions; others carry on as best they can without snowshoes but once you hit significant snow, the “hike” is usually over. From our turnaround it would have taken another mile or so and another 600 feet of elevation gain just to reach the junction with the Noble Knob Trail. As it was it was an 11-mile round-trip hike for us. If Noble Knob is your objective then you might want to wait for the Corral Pass Road to melt out (the road is not suitable for passenger cars); then you can drive to the trailhead for a shorter and easier approach to Noble Knob. Meanwhile, why not get in shape for those steep, summer trails and tackle Deep Creek on a cool, cloudy day? Workout-hikes like this are an investment for the rest of the hiking season, building reserves for more adventures. Getting there: From Enumclaw drive east on State Route 410 for 29.8 miles to parking area on the right side of the highway (there is also space to park on the left side of the highway). Walk up the spur to the White River Trail No. 1199. This trailhead also provides access to the Ranger Creek Trail. A Northwest Forest Pass is required – the trail is also open to mountain bikes and equestrians. Maps: Green Trails No. 238 Greenwater and No. 239 Lester. For additional information call the Mount-Baker National Forest (Enumclaw district) at 360-825-6585. Karen Sykes

Snoquera Palisades

SNOQUERA PALISADES (Trail No. 1198) When it’s still winter at higher elevations in the mountains the Palisades Trail (No. 1198) makes a great spring hike. The hike begins on the White River Trail (No. 1199) off State Route 410 east of Greenwater. In 0.1 mile turn left at the junction with the Palisades Trail. Plenty of wildflowers grace the trail including bleeding hearts, yellow violets, trilliums, red flowering currant, even Calypso orchids. Calypso orchids (also known as fairy slippers) are tiny, intricate flowers often springing from duff near evergreens. A little later in spring the air will be sweet with the scent of vanilla leaf as the ground-cover in the forest grows into a plush carpet of wood sorrel, twin-flower, salal, Oregon grape, ferns, moss and lichen. Hear that roar? That’s Lower Dalles Falls and you’ll hear it before you see it. In spring the 280-foot waterfall puts on a spectacular display from melting snow. A short spur leads to the base for a closer look. Note the majestic Western red cedars near the waterfall. As the trail climbs away from the waterfall toward the Palisades it follows a delicately engineered route between Dalles Creek and tall, dark cliffs – watch for loose rocks. You’ll soon come to a sturdy staircase that makes quick work of climbing a particularly steep pitch – the bridge was built by the Boy Scouts of America. . Above the stairs you’ll cross Dalles Creek - look below and to the right for a partial view of another waterfall (some refer to this waterfall as Upper Dalles Creek Falls). After crossing Dalles Creek the trail re-enters the forest and is level for an easy half-mile or so as it continues to the first of several promontories (3,320 feet elevation) that overlook the White River valley, Sun Top Mountain and forested foothills. Notice how gnarled snags lean out over the cliffs as if they too are taking in the views. Here stonecrop and delicate saxifrages cling to the rocky outcroppings. Be on the lookout for ticks – like us, they like warm rocks in the sun. How far do you want to hike? Any of the overlooks along the Palisades make dandy lunch spots or turnaround. You can continue to a robust shelter at Ranger Creek where the Ranger Creek Trail (Trail No. 1197) comes in from State Route 410 (see the map for details). To get to the Palisades trailhead: From Enumclaw drive east about 28 miles on State Route 410, park on the left side of the highway (parking is limited), elevation (2,352 feet). The trailhead is just past the overlook of Skookum Falls and is designated with a small sign. A Northwest Forest Pass is required. It is about five miles round-trip to the first viewpoint with 1,100 feet of elevation gain. For additional information, rules and regulations and/or current trail conditions, call the Snoqualmie Ranger District (Enumclaw) at 360-825-6585. The map is Green Trails No. 238 (Greenwater). Karen Sykes

Little Mashel Falls, Pack Forest

Little Mashel Falls (Charles Lathrop Pack Experimental and Demonstration Forest)


Pardon the pun but you can pack a lot of fun into Pack Forest near Eatonville. Pack Forest is named for Charles Lathrop Pack – Pack was a lumberman from the east coast who gifted the University of Washington’s College of Forest Resources with the means for the University of Washington to purchase land in the 1920s. In addition to it being a year-round gem for hikers, equestrians, bicyclists and hunters (during hunting season) the 4,300-acre forest provides an outdoor classroom for forest management students.

In spring Pack Forest is especially beautiful, our favorite season to hike there. Late March and April are when the wildflowers begin to bloom, birds sing and waterfalls roar. In late March we saw Coltsfoot, red flowering currant and Indian plum.

While road junctions are signed first-time visitors may find it tricky to get to the waterfalls. In spring (or during rainy periods) the trails to overlooks can be slippery so if you hike with children exercise caution near the overlooks.

The names of the waterfalls can be confusing (there are three main waterfalls). Little Mashel Falls is correctly named; however it is also known as Bridal Veil Falls and trail signs refer to it as Middle Falls. There is also an upper Little Mashel Falls (Tom Tom Falls) and a lower waterfall (Lower Little Mashel Falls) that is difficult to reach on a rough trail partially blocked by blowdowns.

En route to and from Little Mashel Falls you’ll come across signs on trees that alert you when you are leaving Pack Forest property; trails outside Pack Forest are rough, not maintained and potentially hazardous (you can hike on those trails but you hike at your own risk).

When you get to Little Mashel Falls you may well wonder why it is called “little” as the waterfall is a far cry from “little”, especially in spring. The “little” is because the waterfalls originate from the Little Mashel River.

The hike to Little Mashel Falls starts at the upper trailhead parking lot (left) inside Pack Forest across from the administration buildings. There is also a lower parking lot (with portable toilet) between the gatehouse (entrance) to Pack Forest and the upper lot.

From the trailhead walk a short distance up the main road to Road 1000 (Lathrop Drive) and turn left. Hiking clockwise bypass all numbered roads until you reach a Y (about 1-1/2 miles from the trailhead) and a metal signpost designating the Falls Trail. Turn left onto Road 1070.

You’ll soon come to a boulder (left) with blue hand-painted letters signed “Falls” with a directional arrow and another metal signpost. You’ll see two trails off to the left. The first is a rough path blocked by branches - take the other path as it crosses a grassy area and skirts a small pond. From the pond the trail makes a brief descent to a junction designated with three yellow diamonds; turn right. Then turn left at another marker for Middle Falls and you’ll soon come to wooden steps that descend to an overlook of Little Mashel Falls (also known as Bridal Veil Falls and Middle Falls!!).

The view of Little Mashel Falls is stunning though in spring the force of the spray from the waterfall is more like wind-driven rain than mist. A rope at the overlook bars access to a slippery, steep path that descends to the base of the falls – it’s dangerous and a fall could be fatal. You can descend little further from the overlook on the trail to a lower overlook, a good turnaround this time of year.

To extend your hike walk back to the trailhead and continue along Road 1070 a short distance to where it descends to an old railroad grade. Turn left to see an old railroad trestle that spans the Little Mashel River. The river makes a big bend as it goes under the trestle before it pours over a lip to form Upper Little Mashel Falls (also known as Tom Tom Falls).

The Eatonville cut-off road is just above the trestle; the area near the trestle used to be a popular party spot but the trestle is on private railroad property (do not cross the trestle). Cars that do park above the trestle will be towed.

To get there: From Seattle drive south on Interstate 5 to Tacoma, get off at Exit 127 for Highway 512 and in about two miles exit onto State Route 7 (toward Spanaway). Continue on State Route 7 to the entrance of Pack Forest, 780 feet elevation. Enter Pack Forest and continue to upper parking lot (903 feet elevation).

The hike is about 5-3/4 miles round trip with approximately 700 feet gain including minor ups and downs.

Additional Information: There are usually trail maps available at the administration buildings but on our recent visit there weren’t any available. You can print one out from their website before you go: www.packforest.org . For additional information call 206-685-4485 (Seattle).

Karen Sykes

To the tune of: "I don't get around much anymore"

That's not totally true. Let's just say that I haven't been anywhere "interesting" in the mountains for what is beginning to feel like a very long time. The cost of gas, the weather, avalanche danger, aging cars .... so to keep fit I've been running and do so about three times a week, sometimes four. When I start hiking again (if it ever stops raining) I'll run less often. However, I am feeling good about the running - my longest run to date is 12.5 miles, almost a Half Marathon. I'm considering the Seattle Half Marathon this fall.

The other activity that keeps me moreorless sane is my enjoyment of photography. I don't venture far these days so I often revisit the same places but always find something "new" to photograph or at least a "new" way of looking at something I've photographed in the past.

Places I return to frequently include the Pike Place Public Market, the Volunteer Park Conservatory, Jack Block Park (a Port of Seattle park in West Seattle), Alki, little parks along Beach Drive SW in West Seattle and just around the neighborhood pea-patches. Another favorite place: Georgetown. I'm sure I could come up with more but the truth is, I'm still not getting outside enough to be my usual happy self and at times I feel "dull" for lack of a better word.

The weather lately has been demoralizing to say the least. It looks like it's going to be another short summer with snow lingering in the mountains too long. Just about the time the snow melted LAST year the days were already getting shorter.

Sometimes you just can't win but you gotta keep going.

Twin Falls Natural Area and more

March 5, 2012

It was a surprise to have this popular trailhead all to ourselves on this snowy morning. The Twin Falls trail to the bridge/overlook of Twin Falls is a popuar trail for several reasons - it's close to Seattle, Issaquah and North Bend and it's scenic. It's also an easy enough hike that it's suitable for hikers of all ages and abilities. In otherwords, it's a good four-season trail suitable for anyone. Since it is suitable for anyone, that often translates to "everyone" so if you are seeking solitude this is not the trail for you on a sunny weekend. Whenever you go don't forget your Discover Pass - it is required.

Unless ... it's a wintry day mid-week with an early start. We've hiked to Twin Falls in all kinds of weather but this was our first time in snow. It felt a little odd to be breaking trail on this family-friendly hike though the snow will soon melt. It's only about 2-1/2 miles round trip to the bridge-overlook above Twin Falls (that's where many people stop). There is also a lower overlook of Twin Falls before you get to the bridge but as of this writing it is closed due to damage from recent snow and ice storms. Please heed the warning.

The trail starts out following the South Fork of the Snoqualmie River with viewpoints of the river along the way. After the trail follows the river a while it climbs to a small ridge where there are benches for a rest-break or peek-a-boo views of the river (we were able to get a peek at one of the waterfalls from the bench). The trail drops down again, is level for a bit then climbs again on a circuitous route to avoid a slope prone to mud-slides. Along the way note a large, hollowed out stump (left), a perfect setting for a photo of a hiker avoiding inclement weather.

A bit more down on an elaborate set of stairs leads to the robust bridge, the thundering falls and dizzying views to the river and waterfalls below. As of this writing there was about three inches of snow on the bridge but it wasn't slippery. Hikers can continue further to another overlook of the waterfalls and/or to the Iron Horse trail (getting to the Iron Horse trail involves some uphill.

What this writer cannot adequately describe was the beauty of the fresh snow highlighting every twig, fern and tree along the trail. On a cloudy day such as this one it was like hiking through a pen and ink drawing or an etching, every detail sharp and crisp.

The temperatures were such that the snow was not designed to last and began to melt as we hiked out. We also began to meet a few other hikers coming in to enjoy the gifts of this four-season trail.

It is about 2-1/2 miles round-trip to the bridge overlooking Twin Falls.

To get there from Seattle: drive east on I-90 and get off at Exit 34, follow signs to the park/trailhead.

Rattlesnake Lake and more:

Since it was still cold we skipped the hike to Rattlesnake Ledge on our way back but did stop at the lake for photography. It was cold and wintry; we could see Rattlesnake Ledge was snowy and didn't look at all user-friendly. The water was high in the lake but it made for good photography.

To get to Rattlesnake Lake and Rattlesnake Ledge: Take Exit 32 from I-90, continue to trailhead/parking. A Discover Pass is required.

We also stopped at Mill Pond Road (between Snoqualmie Falls and North Bend) for photos of Mount Si reflected in an old mill pond on our way home. Conditions were great for photography; the sun had come out, the skies were blue and what clouds there were were fat, puffy and white.

Our last stop was Snoqualmie Falls; we spent more time photographing flowers in the gardens at Snoqualmie Falls than the waterfall itself; the mist from Snoqualmie Falls was extreme and the upper overlooks were closed due to icy conditions.

Karen Sykes