Old Big Si Trail, February 27, 2013

Mount Si via the Old Mount Si Trail (North Bend, Washington) Maybe you need to be just a little bit nuts to hike up the Old Mount Si trail in wind, rain and snow. Or maybe you’re just trying to stay (or get) into shape. However, it’s not often you’ll find Mount Si as lonesome as it was Wednesday, February 27. Whatever your motivation, whether its for exercise or solitude, winter is a great time to hike up this oft-crowded trail where you stretch your facial muscles saying “Howdy” to other hikers coming or going more than your legs. No matter which trail you take to the base of Mount Si, it’s about an 9-mile hike with 3,300 feet of elevation gain. We parked at the Little Si trailhead, opting for the Old Si trail via the Boulder Garden Loop trail as that is a more scenic approach. We weren’t sure how far we’d get given marginal weather and more rain in the forecast so we started out agreeing to turn around when either of us were ready to do so. We’d both gone on runs the previous day so weren’t sure what kind of shape we’d find ourselves in so paced ourselves accordingly with a measured but steady pace. The hike begins with a short, steep pitch directly from the parking lot – take advantage of a couple of thank-heavens views from mossy outcroppings of the upper Snoqualmie Valley and on a clear day, Rattlesnake Ledge. After that abrupt huff-and-puff the trail levels out for a bit to the east end of the Boulder Loop Trail (it is signed) where we turned right, uphill. This is a slightly gentler climb than from the west trailhead and scenic with mossy cottonwoods, sparkling-with-rain lichen festooned branches of shrubs on an old road turned trail. You’ll pass moss-slathered cliffs, boulders and side-trails to mossy overlooks (try to avoid walking on the moss and keep in mind the rocks are slick on a wet day). For a challenge take the map/compass/GPS and see if you can find Foundation Rock before you turn off onto the (presently unsigned) trail hikers know as the Old Si Trail. Though it is not an official route you’ll recognize this site as climbers occasionally practice on the cliffs below (we spotted hardware). Watch turns, unsigned junctions and side-trails of which there are many. You will need to watch for the turn (uphill, right) where the Old Mount Si Trail begins (as of this writing the trail was not signed). Find it about it at about 800 feet elevation the start of the Boulder Loop Trail. Once on the Old Si Trail you’ll notice the steepness of the grade; pace yourself, it seldom relents. On a hot summer day with high humidity you might opt to give up hiking; we prefer hiking Si by either route in the fall, winter and spring. The trail is easy to follow with a few, slippery stretches over rocks slimed with mud or wet vegetation. After one particularly steep stretch the trail relents a bit as it continues with well-defined switchbacks with a more reasonable pitch. There is even a short, level stretch on an old road before the trail spurts insanely upward again with shorter and steeper switchbacks. Not far from the old road we began to hit short stretches of snow and mud. We’d brought traction devices with us so we were prepared. Indeed, we met one climber coming down who said he’d made it to Haystack Basin but that he had used traction devices further up the trail and also mentioned there were good steps to follow in the deeper snow above. We soon stopped to put on our traction devices for conditions we’d be facing. Once we got to the unsigned junction where the Old Si Trail provides a link to the Mount Si trail the snow deepened quickly, almost enough to warrant snowshoes. This old stretch of the Old Si Trail is short and steep but it’s also one of the prettier sections, especially with trees and shrubs festooned with fresh snow, like walking into a Christmas card. With an eye on time (you should keep an eye on time too!) we agreed to continue to at least the set of rocky steps below Haystack Basin. Given the conditions I stopped a little shy of the snow-encrusted rocks, my companion carried on a little further for a better view of Mount Si though it was late and cold enough she didn’t linger. Though she is agile and prepared for such conditions I watched her descend the rocky steps with my heart in my throat since we appeared to be the last people up there. We made a quick descent; it took us about two hours from the rocky outcroppings to the Little Si trailhead. En route we’d only met one couple on the Boulder Garden Loop and there was only one other car at the trailhead. Though we’d scampered down quickly it was challenging to keep scampering; not because we were tired but because the scenery was so beautiful (there was not enough time for photography). By the time reached North Bend the heavy rain arrived with darkness on its heels. Getting there: To get there: From Seattle head east on I-90 and get off I-90 at Exit No. 32 signed 436th Avenue SE. Go left (over the interstate) and continue ½ mile to North Bend Way and turn left. Continue about ¼ of a mile (toward North Bend) and turn right onto Mount Si Road. Continue to the designated trailhead/parking lot (left) shortly after crossing the Middle Fork Snoqualmie River. A Discovery Pass is required for the Little Si Trailhead and the Mount Si trailhead. Additional Information: Map Green Trails No. 206S (Side A) Mount Si Natural Resources Conservation Area (NRCA). The land management agency is DNR (Washington Department of Natural Resources). On my Green Trails map (2002) the trail is called the Old Big Si Trail. The hike is about 9 miles round trip (including mileages on the Little Si Trail/Boulder Garden Trail). An interesting read about Mount Si is the out-of-print “Guide to Mount Si” by Robert E. DeGraw. Though some of the trail numbers/road numbers may be out of date this book is the most-researched guide to Mount Si I’ve ever had the privilege to read and dream. For current trail/road conditions the most up-to-date resource is Washington Trails Association www.wta.org . Karen Sykes

Gold Creek Basin Snowshoe

GOLD CREEK BASIN SNOWSHOE Gold Creek Pond and/or Gold Creek Trail (East of Snoqualmie Pass) If you’re seeking an easy, scenic snowshoe tour Gold Creek Basin meets all those requirements and more. The shortest snowshoe (or cross-country ski tour) would be the 1-mile loop around Gold Creek Pond. Snowshoers wanting more of a work-out or solitude can go further up into the basin to Heli Pond or even the Gold Creek Trail. The scenic basin is bordered by Rampart Ridge, Chikamin Ridge and other Snoqualmie peaks. Gold Creek Pond is especially popular on weekends as it is suitable for all ages, ranging from senior citizens to families with small children, some with dogs. If this is your first snowshoe or cross-country ski-trip the pond is ideal for a first-time snowshoe experience. You will need an early start (especially on a weekend) as this is a popular place and a Sno-Park permit to park at the trailhead. We enjoy Gold Pond year-round but there is always an air of festivity in winter. From the trailhead/portable toilet go uphill onto the forest service road to the junction where a spur (left) leads to Gold Pond. Experienced snowshoers can bypass Gold Pond and continue on the forest service road to the Gold Creek trailhead past privately owned cabins – the Gold Creek trailhead is about ¾ mile from Gold Pond. At the pond we snowshoed (counterclockwise) onto the path that borders Gold Pond (in summer the path is barrier-free). On a clear day take time to enjoy the views to the head of Gold Creek valley. Bring the map to identify the peaks that enclose the valley –Chikamin Peak, Alta Mountain and Snoqualmie Peak to mention a few. That bulky ridge that rises on the right-hand (east) side of the valley is Rampart Ridge. Rather than completing the loop we left Gold Pond at the trail junction (1/4 mile from the Gold Pond trailhead) for the Gold Creek trail. This short spur connects back to the forest service road and passes several cabins and homes (foot traffic is OK). Before you get to the Gold Creek trailhead you’ll pass Heli’s Pond (left) with a scenic, curved bridge. The pond originally belonged to Burlington-Northern Railroad and later was purchased by private land-owners (it is public land today). The pond was named Heli’s Pond to honor a previous property owner. It makes a nice side-trip. Past Heli’s Pond (about 3/4 mile from Gold Pond) you’ll come to the Gold Creek Trail at the end of the road (the sign may be buried so look for tracks where others have gone). In summer the trail crosses Gold Creek (a potentially hazardous crossing – no bridge) and strong hikers often continue on fading paths to Alaska or Joe Lake. The Gold Creek Trail also offers more opportunities for solitude; though this is a beautiful trail year-round it is not as visited as often as other trails along the I-90 corridor. In winter most snowshoers turn around at the first avalanche chute where the Gold Creek Trail breaks out of the trees where you may see avalanche paths (in summer look for waterfalls tumbling down the cliffs of Rampart Ridge after the snow melts). The first avalanche chute is about a mile from the beginning of the Gold Creek trail and is a good turnaround. Getting there: From Seattle take I-90 east over Snoqualmie Pass and get off at the Hyak-Gold Creek (Exit No. 54, about two miles from Snoqualmie Pass). Go left under I-90, turn right onto the Gold Creek frontage Road and in about a mile find parking near the end of the frontage road where it is gated. Do not park under I-90 – parking is prohibited there and you are apt to be towed. If there’s no room to park at the end of the frontage road turn around and drive back along the frontage road until you find one. A Sno-Park pass is required. Additional information: The Gold Creek Pond (Trail No. 1250) is about a one-mile loop with minimal gain. From Gold Creek Pond it is about 3/4 mile further on the forest service road to the Gold Creek trailhead (Trail No. 1314) with little gain. Your mileage will depend on how far you venture up into Gold Creek Basin). Map: Green Trails No. 207 Snoqualmie Pass (trail and road numbers may not match older maps). If you are going beyond Gold Pond get an avalanche forecast before venturing beyond Gold Pond - visit the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center website at www.nwac.noaa.gov/ or call their Avalanche Information Hotline at 206-526-6677. For information on where to obtain a Sno-Park permit visit the Washington State Parks website at www.parks.wa.gov for trail conditions call the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest in North Bend at 425-888-1421. Karen Sykes

Mount Washington, The Owl Spot

THE OWL SPOT (MOUNT WASHINGTON) There are two types of snowshoers in the Pacific Northwest – those who are so enthusiastic about snowshoeing they put their snowshoes at the first sight of snow. Others, like us, consider snowshoes a tool only to be used when necessary and hold out until they are actually needed. You might be able to leave your snowshoes in the trunk of your car if the Owl Spot on the Mount Washington trail is your destination. On December 22 we bare-booted it to the Owl Spot though more snow has fallen since. The trail to Mount Washington is the kind of trail you won’t know what the conditions are like until you get there. A look at the Green Trails map shows several routes to Mount Washington but getting to that summit is a steep, strenuous hike or snowshoe no matter how you approach it. If you don’t want to work that hard consider what old-timers referred to (including Harvey Manning and The Mountaineers), the Owl Spot about 2.25 miles from the trailhead. The Mountaineers dubbed this then-unobstructed viewpoint the Owl Spot in the 1970s/80s. Then, the organization offered “owl” hikes, trails that could be hiked in the summer after work. The Owl Spot hike provided enough exercise to “count” and the views from the Owl Spot (when Rattlesnake Mountain and North Bend first come into view) were well worth it as were the sunsets that often necessitated hiking back to the car by headlamp. Though the trail to Mount Washington is not signed it’s hard to miss once you’re on the Iron Horse Trail. The hike begins at the trailhead (Olallie State Park) as a short path next to the restroom that climbs to a roadbed leading to the Iron Horse Trail; here, turn right. In a few hundred yards look for an obvious trail (left) that ducks into the forest; that’s the trail. The trail is an old logging road and is rocky, especially near the beginning. Years ago some hikers claimed you could find a wrecked car hidden in the trees near the trailhead though we never found it. Hikers a little long in the tooth may also recall hearing about the legendary Dirty Harry, a gyppo logger who bludgeoned logging roads into the foothills (this road might have been one of Harry’s). When you hike or snowshoe this road (or other old roads near North Bend) picture Dirty Harry barreling down a rocky incline in a beat-up logging truck, brakes smoking, a crazy grin, a cigarette clenched in his teeth. The road-trail (shown as a jeep track on old maps) climbs at a steady grade through the forest engineering a tricky route between cliff bands and overhangs. Our favorite time to go is in winter when icicles form on the cliffs that parallel the road-trail in places and make for good photography (don’t stand under the icicles, the reason should be obvious). In about one mile you’ll come to a large overhanging cliff (right) that is akin to a cave. You can climb a short, rocky path into the cave as it provides a weather-proof spot for lunch or a break. Look to the ceiling for the glint of hardware climbers use to practice fancy climbing maneuvers. Near the entrance splotches of bright yellow and green lichen create Jackson Pollock-like splotches on the reddish boulders and be thankful graffiti-artists have not found this place. It is a cool and restful sanctuary on a hot, summer day and a refuge on wet days. Past the cave the trail continues a steady climb through corridors of alders and evergreens; interspersed with cliff-bands often festooned with icicles in winter. En route you might notice a small hand-made sign with a directional sign for Mount Washington at about 1.5 miles though the way is obvious. There is no sign for the Owl Spot but you’ll know it when you see it. The Owl Spot is where the trail curves around a rocky face with views of Rattlesnake Mountain, North Bend, Mount Si and its adjacent foothills. The view has shrunk over time as trees have grown taller but it still lives up to its name. The bench under the overhanging cliffs was buried in snow when we were there and most of the hikers had adopted snowshoes by then. We hiked back the way we came but were not ready to go home. The skies had cleared and yearning for more views we drove further east on the frontage road to exits further east on I-90 though the best views of Mount Teneriffe and Si were between Tanner and North Bend on the frontage road. Other options from Exit No. 38 include hiking, skiing or snowshoeing the Iron Horse trail in either direction. You can also reach Twin Falls by heading west (right) on the Iron Horse trail as well as Cedar Butte and Rattlesnake Lake (study the Green Trails map for details). Getting there: From Seattle head east on I-90 and get off at Exit No. 38. Turn right after making the exit and then make another right turn at the spur to the trailhead signed “Olallie State Park”. Passenger cars may need to park along the road rather than the trailhead as the spur to the trailhead is steep and may not be plowed. If you do park along the road you can also walk up the gated road (a little above the road to the trailhead) and that will also take you to the Iron Horse Trail. Don’t forget your Discover Pass – it’s required. Additional Information: The hike to the Owl Spot is 4.25 miles (round-trip) with 1,900 feet elevation gain. Refer to Green Trails Map No. 206S Mount Si NRCA, Side B for more detailed information and other options. . Karen Sykes

Talus Loop, Mount Si Natural ResourcesConservation Area

Usually when hikers talk about Mount Si that’s where they end up going. Mount Si is a great conditioner year-round except, perhaps, when trails get icy in winter. If navigating ice in winter isn’t your cup of hot cider, there are other options for hikers at the Mount Si Natural Resources Conservation Area, managed by the Washington Department of Natural Resources (DNR). The Talus Loop trail is a sweet compromise between an easy hike and a strenuous work-out. Plus, the loop provides a measure of solitude for hikers who prefer solitude. If you are a genuine misanthrope you should be prepared to share the first stretch of the Mount Si trail with other hikers, runners and mountain climbers with weights in their pack as they train for loftier ambitions than Mount Si. Display your Discover Pass at the Mount Si trailhead and start up the forested trail. You can start from the lower Talus Loop at .7 miles and climb to the upper end of the Talus Loop at 1.7 miles (where the trail meets the Mount Si trail). Both the upper and lower junctions of the Talus Loop are signed. That makes a nice loop. We prefer starting from the upper trail junction at Snag Flats to make the loop and re-connect with the Mount Si trail at the lower junction on our way out. That way you’ve got the “up” out of the way and you can take your time heading down (or, if you’re feeling spunky you can continue to Mount Si). Take a field guide and take a look at the variety of moss and lichen on this trail (you don’t see as much on the regular trail). The upper Talus Loop trail descends briefly to cross a small creek followed by a short easy climb through silent forest to the namesake of this trail; a large, open triangular-shaped talus field with views out to North Bend and nearby foothills. The talus field is the obvious spot for a break as it is usually in the sun until later in the day. It’s a pleasant place to stop any time of the year; on a sunny day the rocks are warm, even on a winter day (unless it’s raining). The trail has been engineered so there are several spots to “settle” for a while. After the trail traverses the talus field it makes a series of long, descending switchbacks through the forest again where in late fall/early winter you’ll find a variety of mushrooms, fungi, lichen and moss. The trail crosses the bottom of the talus slope again where vine maples are taking root and in fall, providing fall-color displays. Overall the trail has more of a natural feel/ambience as fewer hikers use the trail and less vegetation has been disturbed. You may experience a bit of culture shock when the lower end of the Talus Loop deposits you back onto the thronged Mount Si trail but by that time you’ll be just as cheery as the folks you meet coming and going. To get there: From Seattle head east on I-90 and get off I-90 at Exit No. 32 signed 436th Avenue SE. Go left (over the interstate) and continue ½ mile to North Bend Way and turn left. Continue about ¼ of a mile (toward North Bend) and turn right onto Mount Si Road. Continue 2.5 miles to the designated trailhead/parking lot (left). A Discovery Pass is required. Additional Information: The Talus Loop hike is 3.7 miles round-trip with 1,750 feet elevation gain. The suggested map is Green Trails No. 206S (Mount Si NRCA). For additional information on this trail and others in the Mount Si Natural Resources Conservation Area (Department of Natural Resources): www.dnr.wa.gov Karen Sykes

Tipsoo Lake to Deer Creek Falls via the Eastside Trail

From Tipsoo Lake to Deer Creek Falls via the Eastside Trail (A hike with a car shuttle) Do you like to gamble? Then roll the weather dice on this “iffy” one-way gorgeous hike that involves a car shuttle. If you can’t work out a car shuttle you can still enjoy the best of the high-country by hiking the short stretch of the Eastside trail from Deer Creek toward Chinook Pass (or vice versa) and turn around if/when you get into snow (be prepared for rain or snow with good boots, gaiters and trekking poles). We started at Tipsoo Lake just below Chinook Pass (you can hike this trail either way). WSDOT does it’s best to keep State Route 410 open through Thanksgiving though significant snow can cause an earlier closure. Be sure to check WSDOT for updates on mountain passes and carry chains in case weather changes. From November 1 through May 1 you are required to carry chains in your car in Mount Rainier National Park and use them where required. Any hike that begins from Tipsoo Lake at Chinook Pass is going to be beautiful, with or without snow. Late fall is a poignant time to visit Tipsoo Lake whether you are just driving over Chinook Pass or planning a short hike. Here the seasons mingle; a couple weeks ago the vegetation was a swirl of Halloween colors sprinkled with the bold reds and crimsons of blueberry shrubs. The Eastside Trail begins on the south side of State Route 410 across from the Tipsoo Lake parking area (below Chinook Pass). If there is too much snow to follow the trail from Chinook Pass unless you are familiar with the route you can also start at the Deer Creek trailhead on Highway 123 and continue as far as conditions/energy allow. There is no fixed date for the closure of Highway 123; however significant snowfall will close Highway 123 as well as Chinook Pass. If you hike from Tipsoo Lake down to Deer Creek Falls it is 5.36 miles one-way with a short uphill stretch back to Highway 123 (if you have left a car at Highway 123); otherwise it will be uphill all the way back to Tipsoo Lake so budget time and energy accordingly. . The most scenic route is to hike from Tipsoo Lake to the Deer Creek trailhead – a good reason to leave another car at the Deer Creek trailhead on Highway 123 so you can continue to Deer Creek Falls. Strong hikers can continue down to the new bridge overlooking Ohanapecosh Falls where we’d turned around on a long, summer day. Then we’d hiked from the Ohanapecosh Campground to Ohanapecosh Falls and back the way we came (the Ohanapecosh Campground is closed for the season). Since our recent October hike snow has come and gone from Chinook Pass. On our hike (starting at Tipsoo Lake) it was cold enough that a recent dusting of snow covered the ground, not enough to obscure the trail. However if there is much snow or ice on the trail we recommend traction devices and trekking poles. You also might want to hike in rain-gear even if it’s not raining or snowing; in places the trail was narrow and we got thoroughly soaked by moisture-laden vegetation. On a clear day there are good views of Mount Rainier and Governors Ridge just a few paces from the Tipsoo Lake trailhead. A short descent leads to a pretty tarn (5,185 feet) between the Tipsoo Lake trailhead and Highway 123 across from the Deer Creek trailhead. Paper-thin ice bordered the shoreline. Here, ancient flower stalks lie on the ground with pale, yellowed leaves adding a cheerful touch to the mostly black and white day. Shortly past the tarn the trail continues its descent and comes out on Highway 123. Cross the highway to pick up the Deer Creek Trail and continue as far as energy and conditions warrant (the trail sign is not obvious from the highway). From this point the trail is mostly in the forest; the trail is steep but in good condition. Watch for signs of wildlife – we saw elk tracks and where a bear had shredded the bark of a tree. We stopped to marvel at an enormous display of Chicken Of The Woods (Polyporus Sulphureus), fastened to a fallen tree (the red-orange fungus was growing all along the length of the tree). At five miles we came to the bridge at Chinook Creek. The heavy fall rains had not yet arrived so the stream level was low and the waterfall modest. Stream levels will be rising rapidly given recent rainfall and the trickles we saw will likely be roaring cascades. From there with map in hand we followed trail signs back to Highway 123. The steepest stretch of the trail back to the car is just below the Deer Creek Falls trailhead. Please remember you hike at your own risk so do not rely on cell phones (there isn’t any cell phone reception outside of Greenwater on State Route 410). To get to the Deer Creek trailhead: From Enumclaw drive east on State Route 410 to Cayuse Pass (the junction with Highway 123); turn right onto Highway 123. The trailhead is on the right side of Highway 123 about 4.5 miles from Cayuse Pass. To get to the Tipsoo Lake trailhead on State Route 410: Instead of turning onto Highway 123 at Cayuse Pass continue straight to the first trailhead parking for Tipsoo Lake (left). Walk across State Route 410 and find the marked Eastside Trail a few feet above the highway. Statistics: The hike from Tipsoo Lake to Deer Creek Falls is 5.36 miles one-way (with a car shuttle). The elevation gain from Deer Creek Falls back to the Deer Creek Falls trailhead on Highway 123 is 440 feet elevation gain. If you start at Tipsoo Lake and hike down to Deer Creek Falls the elevation loss is 2,530 feet. The high point of the hike is Tipsoo Lake at 5,350 feet elevation. Additional information: The recommended map is Green Trails No. 269S (Mount Rainier Wonderland). Chains are required from November 1 to May 1 inside Mount Rainier National Park. A Northwest Forest Pass is required at trailheads within the park. For road closures, weather and trail conditions call Mount Rainier National Park at 360-569-2211 or visit their website: www.nps.gov/mora/index.htm - you can also check road conditions by visiting the WSDOT website at: www.wsdot.com Karen Sykes

Mildred Point, Mount Rainier National Park

MILDRED POINT (MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK) We’ve been like chipmunks dashing about on last-minute errands these last golden days of fall. Like them we are also driven by shorter days and a dwindling supply of high-country delights. We lose a little over three minutes of daylight a day this time of year so put a hike to Mildred Point on your calendar before winter sets in. The Comet Falls trail used to be the most popular approach to Mildred Point but the Comet Falls trail is closed about 1.6 miles due to trail damage. Fortunately you can still hike to Mildred Point from Longmire by starting out on The Wonderland Trail. The trail system is well signed and the park has placed signs indicating where trails to Comet Falls/Van Trump Park are closed. The Wonderland Trail at Longmire crosses the Nisqually-Paradise road in about ½ mile and begins to climb through the forest. The trail is in good condition, even a prehistoric stretch of puncheon that crosses a boggy area below the junction with the Rampart Ridge Trail. At the next junction we left the Wonderland Trail, turning right onto the Van Trump Park trail which continues to Mildred Point. As we hiked bright-eyed Canadian jays (often called camp robbers – guess why!) darted from tree to tree, their eyes sparkling as they perched on trees above us in an obvious bid for hand-outs. Eventually the forest transitions to parklands where fall is making a dramatic entrance as blueberry/huckleberry shrubs turn every hue of orange and red imaginable. We were surprised to see many gentians still in bloom in these quiet meadows where subalpine evergreens have quietly taken root as if to anchor the meadows in place. At 4.5 miles we came to the last junction signed Van Trump Park, another Comet Falls trail closure sign and a second sign pointing toward Mildred Point. The trail crosses meadows as it makes its way toward Mildred Point but make no mistake, this is a steep trail. Take a break and look to the west for a view of Pyramid Peak. Though few hikers visit Mildred Point the trail has been hiked often enough that the trail is deeply embedded in the meadow, in places a knee-high ditch which tempts hikers to hike beside the trail rather than in the ditch (this is never a good idea as over time hikers create a “new” trail to avoid the ditch). That first view of Mount Rainier when it breaks out of the forest never fails to incite awe. Though there was no wind where we’d stopped to look at The Mountain we watched lenticular clouds racing toward the summit, like ships without captains. The trail is out in the open and the last stretch is dusty and steep (carry plenty of water, this is a dry trail). If not for the haze from forest fires there are great views of Mount Adams and Mount Saint Helens to the south (we could barely make out Mount Adams through the haze). The trail ends at the edge of an abrupt cliff where a sign warns hikers they’ve reached the end of the maintained trail (as if there could be any doubt). This is one of the most scenic vistas inside the park but don’t get too close to the edge. We were spellbound by a series of waterfalls plunging from the Kautz glacier – in such a setting it is hard to decide where to draw the line between creation and destruction as Mount Rainier goes about her geologic business. You can explore a little further on game-trails that contour the ridge-top – we followed one through a few small, subalpine trees where we were startled by the sight of a mountain goat’s head peeking at us over the lip of the void. Before we could say “camera” he’d dropped out of sight. We spotted more goats in the distance as they traversed an almost vertical meadow. Turnaround time always comes too soon and soon we were back in the forest, grateful for the occasional cool breeze that wafted our way. Additional Information: the hike is 10 miles round trip with 3,750 feet elevation gain. For updates on fees, rules and regulations, current conditions, and weather, call Mount Rainier National Park (360-569-2211) or visit their website at www.nps.gov/mora/ . Map: Green Trails (Mount Rainier Wonderland Map 269S). . Karen Sykes

Summerland, Mount Rainier National Park, August 26, 2012

Summerland (Mount Rainier National Park) Summerland is one of the most popular hikes inside Mount Rainier National Park and suffice it to say you will know why this is a popular destination once you get there. Here are a few reasons of our reasons this hike is a favorite - first off, the views. For starters: views of the Fryingpan Glacier, the Emmons Glacier, Little Tahoma, Mount Rainier and Panhandle Gap. Add to that a herd of 30 (we counted) mountain goats and scads of wildflowers still blooming at Summerland – these are just a few delights you’ll experience on this trail. Get an early start (the trailhead is not large enough to accommodate many vehicles). Also add an extra layer to your pack - it’s getting to be that time of the year when mornings are chilly though it will feel like summer as the day progresses. The trail gets off to a mellow start as it climbs through sheltered forest the first couple of miles before coming to a switchback with a view of Fryingpan Creek where the creek drops through a gorge. A little further are more switchbacks with even better views of the creek. In the morning these switchbacks are usually in the sun and are good places to stop for a drink or a snack before continuing to Summerland. Next you’ll cross a couple of streams and as you approach Fryingpan Creek late-summer wildflowers make their appearance including fireweed, asters, mountain daisies and pearly everlasting. After crossing Fryingpan Creek on a sturdy bridge with a railing the trail meanders through meadows that in late August are a purple haze of asters and fireweed before the trail commences its climb to Summerland on a series of steep switchbacks. There are still enough wildflower displays to stop you in your tracks, especially the closer you get to Summerland. Between pockets of forest the hillsides are covered with wildflowers. Between Fryingpan Creek and Summerland we saw lousewort, lupine, asters, mountain daisies, magenta paintbrush, bistort, valerian and we couldn’t help but notice the swirled leaves of hellebore were already threaded with strands of gold. When you get to Summerland take time to check out the shelter; also an outdoor toilet (signed) is located uphill from the shelter should you need one. Hikers are not allowed to camp inside the shelter but it’s a great place to hang out if you’re backpacking and would prefer to prepare your meal under a roof rather than a dripping tarp. Summerland is far enough for many hikers though strong hikers (or backpackers) can continue on to Panhandle Gap – even beyond. An ice axe or poles will come in handy if you are climbing to Panhandle Gap as there is still snow up there. Mornings are getting cold and that means the potential for hard, steep snow. Though wildflowers are fading between Fryingpan Creek and Summerland from Summerland on up toward Panhandle Gap the wildflowers are still going strong, especially pink and yellow monkeyflowers. If you don’t want to hike as far as Panhandle Gap another option is to continue on the trail until you come to two tarns below the gap (right) that are ideal for a turnaround or a leisurely lunch. Here there are even better views of Panhandle Gap (as of August 27 there was still a cornice at Panhandle Gap) as well as close-up views of wildflowers and the abstract shapes of melting ice in the tarns. The flowers at these higher elevations included Elmera, Tolmie’s saxifrage and Alpine buckwheat. Note that the flowers at these elevations are small and grow close to the ground, their adaptation to inclement weather. At the higher tarn where we stopped to eat we were at first puzzled (then amazed) to spot a herd of mountain goats descending a snow-field toward the tarn just below “our” tarn. They were far enough away that at first we couldn’t figure out what we were seeing but when they got off the snow and onto the dark moraine we could see they were mountain goats. Seeing mountain goats is always a bonus but never have we seen so many. We extended our lunch time just for the pleasure of watching them before they headed back up the mountain. On our way back to Summerland we noted views of the Emmons Glacier that we’d missed hiking up as the glacier was behind us then – the view was almost disquieting, the crevasses so close together that it was hard to tell where one ended and another began. Just above Fryingpan Creek we met a hiker who said a bear had gotten into her backpack when she’d left the trail briefly for a “party separation”. Be extra vigilant when it comes to bears – if you venture off trail for any reason don’t set your pack down, take it with you (if you are camping hang your food). We didn’t see the resident bear but just after crossing Fryingpan Creek we did see blue gentians beside the trail. We call gentians the “goodbye flower” because they herald the end of summer. While we enjoy these poignantly-beautiful flowers we don’t look forward to the end of another summer, especially after this summer got off to such a late start. To get there: From the White River entrance of Mount Rainier National Park (via State Route 410) continue about three miles to the trailhead on the Sunrise Road – the trailhead is on the right-hand side just past the Fryingpan Creek road bridge. No facilities. A pass or a fee is required to enter the park – for details refer call 360-569-2211 (Park Headquarters) or 360-569-6575 (Park Information). Additional Information: The hike to Summerland is 7.25 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 2,100 feet. Map: Green Trails No. 269S, Mount Rainier Wonderland. Add mileage and gain accordingly if you venture beyond Summerland. Karen Sykes