Wednesday, July 31, 2013
Lake Twenty-Two, July 27, 2013
LAKE TWENTY-TWO (Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest)
Some trails just never get old; Lake Twenty-Two is one of them. Many an experienced hiker chose Lake 22 as their first hike; the hike is popular and has gotten a lot of press over the years in hiking guidebooks, through word of mouth and the media.
There’s an old saying that if a hikers’ first hike is unpleasant they may never hike again. Since it’s almost impossible to turn this trail into an unpleasant experience it’s a good trail for novice hikers (or any hiker for that matter). It’s also a good trail to revisit as it can be hiked (or snowshoed) most of the year and the ambience of the trail changes with each season; we like to experience them all.
We’ve asked ourselves - what is it that draws us back to this trail? It’s not solitude for that’s hard to come by on this busy trail unless it’s a cold, rainy day in November. Is it the poignant song of the hidden varied thrush or the shine of skunk cabbage in the spring? Is it the colorful collar of wildflowers around the lake or the snowy cliffs and house-sized boulders at the far end of the lake? Or is it a chance for guys to spot pretty girls in bikinis at lakes’ edge on a hot day as happened to one of our friends? (We will tease him forever; once he spotted the mountain nymphs we found it very hard to get his attention again). Or is it a solitary niche by the lake where the berries hang low and the views are beyond this hikers’ description? Whatever your motivation get an early start if you seek solitude or would enjoy sampling the salmonberries that border certain stretches of the trail.
Now about those waterfalls; how many are there? That depends on your definition of a waterfall; several can be seen (or heard) along the trail but avoid the temptation to leave the main trail for better views. Though you can see spurs where others have done so the terrain can be steep and slippery. Don’t risk an injury.
Before you hit the trail take time to read the large, brown sign designating the area as a Research Natural Area (RNA) at the start of the trail. The Lake Twenty-Two Research Area was established in 1947, the purpose to study the effects of a forest in its natural state compared to similar settings in which forests have been logged.
The trail is in good condition from start to finish with old-growth trees towering over the trail. Look for Pacific Silver Fir, Western Red Cedar, Douglas firs and hemlocks. At higher elevations you’ll also find Alaska cedars with their definitive shaggy bark. Between the giants the ground-cover is a thick carpet of moss, ferns and shrubs with ripening berries. All your senses will come into play along this trail with bird-calls, the gurgle of rivulets, the happy prattle of a child on the next switchback, the scolding jay you cannot spot in the trees no matter how hard you look.
Ferns border the trail; oak ferns, deer ferns, lady ferns, licorice ferns, sword ferns and bracken. Bead lily and Canadian dogwood are abundant in summer (in spring look for trilliums and stream violets). In summer Devil’s Club is tall and topped with a spathe of red berries. Huckleberries and blueberries are beginning to ripen and on our recent hike most of the biting bugs were gone other than small, weird clouds of gnats hovering around monkey-flowers at the lake. Take bug juice anyway – some hikers are more attractive to bugs than others.
We also recommend wearing sturdy boots as stretches of the trail are rocky and “rooty”.
Note how Western Red Cedars clutch the earth with their knotty roots that resemble the arthritic fingers and knuckles of a giant – the roots sometimes form a latticework near the base of the tree or spread across the trail. Feel the creak of old puncheon under your feet where water runs down the trail during the rainy seasons.
In about ¾ mile you’ll cross Twenty-Two Creek on a footbridge with views upstream and down, a great spot to cool off on a hot day. In about 1.5 miles the trail breaks out of the forest and switchbacks across a talus field lined with ferns and hellebore though open enough for views of Three Fingers and Liberty peaks. Relish those pockets of shade at the ends of the sunny switchbacks if in need of a rest.
After negotiating the talus slope the trail returns to the forest and gets a little steeper before it reaches the lake. Lake Twenty-Two sits in a steep cirque, bounded by cliffs. You’d never know that Heather Lake was just a ridge away. The cliffs at the far end of the lake are in shadow for much of the day; hence, even in July the gullies still held snow; earlier in the year you may see (or hear) avalanches. Avoid the far end of the lake when there is significant snow.
Once you reach the lake you can hike around the lake (1.2 miles) in either direction with no significant gain or hazards during summer. Spurs lead to potential picnic spots; on our recent hike, we were passed by a cheerful group of local teenage boys on a “football bonding” hike who were shouting with joy (or shock) as they jumped into the icy water of the lake, none of them stayed in for long.
The far end of the lake is an intriguing mix of meadow, wildflowers and towering boulders daubed with lichen. Here we found mounds of marsh marigolds, sedges, heathers and monkey-flowers; if the bugs are not biting linger awhile and enjoy the beauty everywhere you look.
As we continued around the lake we marveled at how it changed colors as the sunlight and clouds shifted direction, lengthening the shadows on the steep snowfields above the lake and silhouetting the fringes of evergreens topping the knolls between the lake and the cliffs.
While not considered a wildflower hike we saw several including monkey-flowers, columbine, lupine, marsh marigolds, hellebore, Canadian dogwood, bead lily, mountain ash and more. There are so many reasons to love this trail that we’ve lost count. Enjoy!
Getting there: From Granite Falls drive east on the Mountain Loop Highway – in about 11 miles you’ll see the Verlot Public Service Center (left); stop in for trail conditions and/or to purchase a pass or map if needed. Stop by anyway to view their displays; including one displaying a slice from an old-growth tree, each ring representing a year of growth. From there it’s another two miles to the designated Lake Twenty-two trailhead (right) and facility. A Northwest Forest Pass is required. Don’t leave valuables behind as this trailhead has experienced car break-ins.
Additional Information: Maps: Green Trails No. 109 Granite Falls, Green Trails No 110 Silverton. Questions? Call Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Verlot Public Service Center at 360-691-7791 or visit their website: www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs .
To view photos of Lake 22 click on the link below, scroll down to second set.
www.flickr.com/photos/karenseyes/ .
Karen Sykes
Lake Twenty-Two Trail
LAKE TWENTY-TWO (Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest)
Some trails just never get old; Lake Twenty-Two is one of them. Many an experienced hiker chose Lake 22 as their first hike; the hike is popular and has gotten a lot of press over the years in hiking guidebooks, through word of mouth and the media.
There’s an old saying that if a hikers’ first hike is unpleasant they may never hike again. Since it’s almost impossible to turn this trail into an unpleasant experience it’s a good trail for novice hikers (or any hiker for that matter). It’s also a good trail to revisit as it can be hiked (or snowshoed) most of the year and the ambience of the trail changes with each season; we like to experience them all.
We’ve asked ourselves - what is it that draws us back to this trail? It’s not solitude for that’s hard to come by on this busy trail unless it’s a cold, rainy day in November. Is it the poignant song of the hidden varied thrush or the shine of skunk cabbage in the spring? Is it the colorful collar of wildflowers around the lake or the snowy cliffs and house-sized boulders at the far end of the lake? Or is it a chance for guys to spot pretty girls in bikinis at lakes’ edge on a hot day as happened to one of our friends? (We will tease him forever; once he spotted the mountain nymphs we found it very hard to get his attention again). Or is it a solitary niche by the lake where the berries hang low and the views are beyond this hikers’ description? Whatever your motivation get an early start if you seek solitude or would enjoy sampling the salmonberries that border certain stretches of the trail.
Now about those waterfalls; how many are there? That depends on your definition of a waterfall; several can be seen (or heard) along the trail but avoid the temptation to leave the main trail for better views. Though you can see spurs where others have done so the terrain can be steep and slippery. Don’t risk an injury.
Before you hit the trail take time to read the large, brown sign designating the area as a Research Natural Area (RNA) at the start of the trail. The Lake Twenty-Two Research Area was established in 1947, the purpose to study the effects of a forest in its natural state compared to similar settings in which forests have been logged.
The trail is in good condition from start to finish with old-growth trees towering over the trail. Look for Pacific Silver Fir, Western Red Cedar, Douglas firs and hemlocks. At higher elevations you’ll also find Alaska cedars with their definitive shaggy bark. Between the giants the ground-cover is a thick carpet of moss, ferns and shrubs with ripening berries. All your senses will come into play along this trail with bird-calls, the gurgle of rivulets, the happy prattle of a child on the next switchback, the scolding jay you cannot spot in the trees no matter how hard you look.
Ferns border the trail; oak ferns, deer ferns, lady ferns, licorice ferns, sword ferns and bracken. Bead lily and Canadian dogwood are abundant in summer (in spring look for trilliums and stream violets). In summer Devil’s Club is tall and topped with a spathe of red berries. Huckleberries and blueberries are beginning to ripen and on our recent hike most of the biting bugs were gone other than small, weird clouds of gnats hovering around monkey-flowers at the lake. Take bug juice anyway – some hikers are more attractive to bugs than others.
We also recommend wearing sturdy boots as stretches of the trail are rocky and “rooty”.
Note how Western Red Cedars clutch the earth with their knotty roots that resemble the arthritic fingers and knuckles of a giant – the roots sometimes form a latticework near the base of the tree or spread across the trail. Feel the creak of old puncheon under your feet where water runs down the trail during the rainy seasons.
In about ¾ mile you’ll cross Twenty-Two Creek on a footbridge with views upstream and down, a great spot to cool off on a hot day. In about 1.5 miles the trail breaks out of the forest and switchbacks across a talus field lined with ferns and hellebore though open enough for views of Three Fingers and Liberty peaks. Relish those pockets of shade at the ends of the sunny switchbacks if in need of a rest.
After negotiating the talus slope the trail returns to the forest and gets a little steeper before it reaches the lake. Lake Twenty-Two sits in a steep cirque, bounded by cliffs. You’d never know that Heather Lake was just a ridge away. The cliffs at the far end of the lake are in shadow for much of the day; hence, even in July the gullies still held snow; earlier in the year you may see (or hear) avalanches. Avoid the far end of the lake when there is significant snow.
Once you reach the lake you can hike around the lake (1.2 miles) in either direction with no significant gain or hazards during summer. Spurs lead to potential picnic spots; on our recent hike, we were passed by a cheerful group of local teenage boys on a “football bonding” hike who were shouting with joy (or shock) as they jumped into the icy water of the lake, none of them stayed in for long.
The far end of the lake is an intriguing mix of meadow, wildflowers and towering boulders daubed with lichen. Here we found mounds of marsh marigolds, sedges, heathers and monkey-flowers; if the bugs are not biting linger awhile and enjoy the beauty everywhere you look.
As we continued around the lake we marveled at how it changed colors as the sunlight and clouds shifted direction, lengthening the shadows on the steep snowfields above the lake and silhouetting the fringes of evergreens topping the knolls between the lake and the cliffs.
While not considered a wildflower hike we saw several including monkey-flowers, columbine, lupine, marsh marigolds, hellebore, Canadian dogwood, bead lily, mountain ash and more. There are so many reasons to love this trail that we’ve lost count. Enjoy!
Getting there: From Granite Falls drive east on the Mountain Loop Highway – in about 11 miles you’ll see the Verlot Public Service Center (left); stop in for trail conditions and/or to purchase a pass or map if needed. Stop by anyway to view their displays; including one displaying a slice from an old-growth tree, each ring representing a year of growth. From there it’s another two miles to the designated Lake Twenty-two trailhead (right) and facility. A Northwest Forest Pass is required. Don’t leave valuables behind as this trailhead has experienced car break-ins.
Additional Information: Maps: Green Trails No. 109 Granite Falls, Green Trails No 110 Silverton. Questions? Call Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Verlot Public Service Center at 360-691-7791 or visit their website: www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs .
To view photos of Lake 22 click on the link below, scroll down to second set.
www.flickr.com/photos/karenseyes/ .
Karen Sykes
Lake Twenty-Two, July 27, 2013
To view photos of Lake 22 click on the link below, scroll down to second set.
www.flickr.com/photos/karenseyes/ .
Thursday, July 4, 2013
Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument, July 4, 2013
MOUNT ST. HELENS NATIONAL VOLCANIC MONUMENT
You’ll just barely scratch the surface of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument if you only have a day to visit but what a stunning surface it is! For the peak experience we recommend camping or seeking lodging nearby. If that’s not possible you can still pack a lot of grandeur into a day with many points of interest; overlooks with nature trails, visitor centers and viewpoints; the piece de-resistance, of course, is the Johnston Ridge Observatory.
Before the eruption of Mount St. Helens in 1980 Highway 504 from Castle Rock was the main route to Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake (today it is called the Spirit Lake Memorial Highway). This majestic highway is just one example of how this region bounced back and recovered after the eruption.
Here is our itinerary for a days’ visit starting from Castle Rock:
The Mount St Helens Visitor Center at Silver Lake: View displays inside (a $5 entry fee for adults); outside you can hike the ½ mile interpretive Wetlands Trail. The visitor center is also a good place to buy the handy “Road Guide to Mount St. Helens”. On a clear day there is also a good view of Mount St. Helens from the terrace outside the visitor center.
Next you’ll cross the Toutle River on a highway bridge built to replace the bridge destroyed during the 1980 eruption. The mudflow resulting from the eruption destroyed about 200 homes before cresting at Castle Rock.
Though mudflows are destructive life quietly returns. As soon as the area re-opened we hiked a trail at Mount Saint Helens; alders and pearly everlasting had already established a foothold. To learn how mammals, birds, insects and vegetation survived and adapted to the eruption you can learn more about their survival strategies at the visitor centers.
Our next stop was the Hoffstadt Bluffs Visitor Center. Here a short path leads to the Memorial Grove, a tranquil, forested setting established to honor those who lost their lives during the eruption – a plaque lists their names. Here you can also make arrangements for helicopter tours of the region (see additional information).
The next point of interest is the Forest Learning Center; (no entry fee) created/managed by The Weyerhaeuser Company, the Washington State Department of Transportation (WSDOT) and the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation. Learn more about how the surrounding area recovered with hands-on and visual aids. There is also a sweeping view of the valley where the volcanic debris flowed – peer through a telescope for closer views. Today elk graze in the valley below.
We stopped at the Elk Rock overlook to take in the views of surrounding peaks including Mount Margaret, Coldwater Peak, Mount Adams and the pumice plain below created by the eruption.
The Coldwater Science and Learning Center was closed and stopped at the Loowit Viewpoint. Here look into the crater of the mountain and walk a short stretch of the Boundary Trail with jaw-dropping overlooks. Well-placed signs remind visitors to stay on designated trails; otherwise risk a $100-300 fine. You won’t need to leave the trail to be blown away by views of Mount St. Helens and masses of wildflowers blooming nearby. From the Loowit Viewpoint visitors can hike or drive 0.8 mile to the Johnson Ridge Observatory.
The highway ends at a parking area with a concession stand. From there it’s only a few paces uphill to the Johnston Ridge Observatory so named to honor David Johnston, the geologist who made the last measurements of the mountain before the 1980 eruption and was killed. There is an $8 entry fee (see additional information) to hike the trails or view interpretive displays inside the Observatory. After paying your fee or using an acceptable pass park rangers will attach a pink wrist-band around your wrist so you can come and go throughout the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument.
Inside the observatory we could not resist seeing how much of a blip we made on the seismograph that monitors the movements of the mountain. To measure your impact: jump onto the platform to see the resulting spike you make on the seismograph. You can also experience the daily blips made by the mountains’ vibrations by standing on another platform where you will feel the minor but constant vibrations and shudders of the volcano.
The story of Mount St. Helens is lavishly illustrated and explained through interpretive signs, hands-on displays, historic photographs and ranger-given talks. Don’t miss the walk on the short Eruption Trail (one mile round-trip, 100 feet gain). Prepare to be wowed by close-up views of Mount St. Helens and wildflower displays.
On your way to or from the Johnston Ridge Observatory take a side-trip to Coldwater Lake; the lake was formed by an avalanche during the 1980 eruption. The lake is only a short distance off the highway to a parking area with paths to the lake; restroom, boat launch (electric motors only) and trails (don’t throw away that wrist-band!). You will need them as proof that you’ve paid to visit or hike the trails inside the Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument. There are also hiking trails around Coldwater Lake and access into the Lake Margaret Backcountry (an advance permit is required to camp, see additional information).
Coldwater Lake provides a tranquil ending to a long and scenic experience through a violent landscape.
Getting there: From Seattle head south on I-5 and turn off at Exit No. 49 onto State Route 504 (east). Allow about 3.5 hours’ drive time one-way from Seattle.
Additional information: The maps are Green Trails No. 332 (Spirit Lake), Green Trails No. 364 (Mount St. Helens) and Green Trails No. 364S (Mount Saint Helens Northwest).
Helicopter Tours (Hillsboro Aviation): For prices and/or to make a reservation www.mtsthelenshelicoptertours.com or call 360-274-5200.
www.fs.usda.gov/mountsthelens Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument (360-449-7800)
Johnston Ridge Observatory: 360-274-2140
Mount St. Helens Learning and Science Center at Coldwater: www.mshslc.org
360-274-2144
Mount St. Helens Visitor Center at Silver Lake: http://parks.wa.gov/stewardship/mountsthelens/
Eruption Trail No. 201 – easy, 1 mile, 100 feet gain. The trail starts at the Johnston Ridge Observatory.
Mount St. Helens Visitor Center at Silver Lake: located 5 miles east of I-5, operated year-round by Washington State Parks. Fees: $5.00 per adult, $2.50 youth, $15 per family. Open 9 to 5 pm daily, May 16-Sept 15. Phone: 360-274-0962
Johnston Ridge Observatory: open mid-May through October (10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily). Pets are not allowed at viewpoints or on trails. A Monument Pass (wrist band) is required and available at the Observatory.
Coldwater Lake or Johnston Ridge Observatory are inside the Mount St. Helens National Monument and require an Interagency Pass or Northwest Forest Pass. Otherwise $8.00 per person (16 years and older). A Senior Northwest Forest Pass enables free entry to pass-holders otherwise a Northwest Forest Pass will allow one person entry to Johnston Ridge or Coldwater Lake.
The Lakes Trail (Coldwater Lake) is six miles round-trip, elevation gain 500 feet. The Eruption Trail at the Johnston Ridge Observatory is one mile round-trip with 100 feet of gain.
Camping at Mount Margaret Backcountry from Coldwater Lake: Permits are by advance registration only. Apply early – applications accepted by mail, FAX or in person or at the Johnston Ridge Observatory or the Cowlitz Valley Ranger Station. Maximum party size is four – no fires, no pets, no stock. For additional information visit: www.fs.usda.gov/goto/backcountry . The phone number for the Cowlitz Valley Ranger Station is 360-497-1100.
To view photos of Mount St. Helens click on the link below, scroll down to second set. www.flickr.com/photos/karenseyes/ .
Karen Sykes
Thursday, June 6, 2013
Easton Ridge Trail No. 1212, May 31, 2013
EASTON RIDGE TRAIL No. 1212
The trails along Easton Ridge live up to their reputation as being the “go to” place when it’s cool and rainy on the west side of Snoqualmie Pass. At the worst you might experience drizzle or a rain shower as opposed to the deluges on the west side.
The Easton Ridge trail is poignantly beautiful in June with sprinkles of dainty Calypso orchids in shady areas and in sunnier spots you’d almost expect the upside-down bell-shaped chocolate lilies to tinkle in the breeze. On our early June hike vanilla leaf was off to a good start and at higher elevations Indian Paintbrush and Bracted Lousewort were also getting started. Golden glacier lilies danced in the breeze and chunks of colorful stone-crop adorned the bony ridge-crest.
You’ll also see penstemon, serviceberry, lomatiums; dainty spring-beauties carpet the path as it weaves between shady forest and sunny openings with views of the Stuart Range, Lake Easton and Lake Kachess. You might even get buzzed by a hummingbird if you’re wearing red. On a clear day before haze develops you can also see Mount Rainier. In the forest you’ll find Calypso orchids, low enough to the ground that you have to look for them; getting them to hold still for a photograph is challenging.
The Easton Ridge Trail No. 1212 shares the trailhead with the Kachess Ridge Trail and Domerie Divide trails. From the trailhead bear right a short distance and cross bustling Silver Creek on a footbridge. After crossing Silver Creek the trail switchbacks steeply uphill through the forest to a gravel road. Turn left, continue to the next switchback on the road and spot the trail heading uphill.
At about 3,500 feet you’ll come to a three-way signed trail junction, the first sign you will encounter after leaving the trailhead. The middle trail (soft right) is the Easton Ridge Trail (the faint path to the right dead-ends) and the trail (left) climbs to Domerie Divide and other enticing destinations such as Thomas Mountain and Mount Baldy.
From the junction the Easton Ridge trail makes short work of climbing to the ridge-crest with increasingly spectacular views of Lake Easton, Kachess Lake, the outskirts of Easton, a quarry and across the ribbon of I-90 the foothills and peaks of the Taneum area some refer to as the land between the lakes.
The path grows airy and narrow in places along the ridge with serviceberry and other shrubs hugging the trail, sharing the territory with phlox (spreading and cushion), bracted-lousewort, glacier lilies, yellow bells and tufts of penstemon like Tibetan prayer flags fluttering from rock outcrops. The Ponderosa pines are tall and handsome, some bedecked with the glow of moss that can only be described as psychedelic. A few silver snags claw at the sky.
As you continue you’ll pass a “No Trespassing” sign which we interpret as being off the trail where a private land-owner has purchased a sizable chunk of real estate. To the best of our knowledge and also according to the Cle Elum Ranger District it is OK to continue but play it safe and stay on the trail (the private property appears to be on the north side of the ridge).
We continued along the path to the high point, a rocky-outcrop only a rock climber would venture to the top like one of our companions. The rest of us were content to stop at the base. The high point is the site of a fire tower that was destroyed in 1948 – a sheet of crumpled metal near the base of the high point may be an indication that there was also a beacon at this location in the past.
From the base of the high point (4,500 feet) the views of Thomas Mountain, Mount Stuart and the Stuart Range are compelling. There are also views to the north - look down on Cle Elum Lake and Mount Baldy, another high-country hard-earned treasure.
The only fly in the ointment so to speak is that these trails are in tick country, especially spring to mid-summer. Despite the threat of picking up a tick after a long winter followed by a chilly spring we could not get enough of the sun and were in no hurry to leave. We also took our time hiking back, stopping several times for yet another attempt to photograph the wily Calypso orchid.
Between us we picked up two ticks but found them before they settled down to feast on us. While we loathe ticks we don’t let them keep us away – take precautions and be on the alert.
To get there: From Seattle head east on I-90 over Snoqualmie Pass on I-90, get off at Easton (Exit No. 70), go over the freeway, turn left on the frontage road and then right on Kachess Dam Road No. 4818. In about 1.5 miles you’ll come to an unsigned road junction and a tree with an orange diamond reflector; turn right. Continue about a mile to the trailhead/parking area, no facility. A Northwest Forest Pass is required.
Stats: The hike is about 7.15 miles round-trip with 2,485 feet of elevation gain.
Additional Information: Call the Cle Elum Ranger District for current road and trail conditions at 509-852-1100. The maps are Green Trails No. 240 Easton and Green Trails No. 208 Kachess Lake.
For photos of this hike visit my Flickr site at www.flickr.com/photos/karenseyes/
Addendum: About Ticks:
Starting in late-April hiking related websites generate chat about ticks: where they have been encountered, how to get one out should it get embedded, how to avoid them in the first place. There are horror stories and remedies, not all the remedies are cheap or always effective. Ticks can carry diseases and they are hard to detect. Nature has designed them very well – you won’t feel them crawling on your body once they find you. They inject a type of painkiller into your skin so they can explore the trails of your body unimpeded as they search for a site to begin feeding. They prefer wet, moist places like scalp or bodily parts you can’t see in a mirror.
We know people who have been – or still are – ill from the effects of a tick-bite (a friend of ours got Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever from a tick in Montana; “our” ticks can carry Lyme Disease. You can also get an infection from the tick if they regurgitate while feasting or you don’t remove the entire body once it embeds. Be on the lookout for a circular rash around the site of the bite after removing the tick. The good news (if any) is that ticks are finicky and will crawl around on your skin, clothing or pack for about 8-12 hours before they pick an all-you-can restaurant (you!). Apparently ticks go through three life cycles – initially they are about the size of a period and when they are mature they are about 1/8 inch in size and bigger after a blood meal. Twice I’ve had to take antibiotics because I didn’t detect the tick in time.
People have tried many ways to remove a tick – the best method is pulling them out with tweezers. Not much else works very well. We know. We’ve tried Vaseline, flames from a match, nail-polish and nail-polish remover. It’s best to find them before they set up shop and before you get into your car. Once I tried to kill a tick with a rock (the tick was on another rock heading toward me) and couldn’t kill it. We tried to burn it; that didn’t work either, it kept coming at me; we moved to another site.
I am not an expert on the effects of global warming though it appears ticks are creeping ever closer westward. It used to be you’d find them most often on the east side of the mountain passes but now they can be found in the Olympics, Deception Pass (since the early 1980s), Snoquera Palisades and other rocky areas off State Route 410. Ticks may drop off once they feed; that’s why it’s important to find them before they dig in. Twice – I’ve had to go on antibiotics as a result of tick-bites. Once was a preventative measure; the second time a bulls-eye rash had developed around the site of the bite, indicating possible infection.
What’s the solution? Your dog has a better chance of evading a tick than you as Advantage works on pets to keep ticks away. Hikers are advised to wear light colors to spot them. We also recommend wearing long pants, gaiters and long-sleeved light-weight shirts. Evolutionarily speaking ticks are practically bomb-proof. Some hikers believe Vitamin B1 helps keep them away or DEET (a pesticide); others swear by bug-repellent clothing. For additional information about hiking in tick country Washington Trails Association has recently published an excellent article on that subject. Visit their website at www.wta.org .
Karen Sykes
Thursday, May 2, 2013
Photos for Hike of the Week, Ebey's Landing
To see photos of Ebey’s Landing visit my photo site on Flickr and you’ll find a set for Ebey’s Landing on the First Page.
www.flickr.com/photos/karenseyes/
Ebey's Landing Preserve National Historic Preserve, April 26, 2013
EBEY’S LANDING PRESERVE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PRESERVE (Whidbey Island)
Mention “Ebey’s” and hikers ears perk up; it is a year-round favorite. Hike as little or as far as you wish, clockwise or counterclockwise, view Perego’s Lagoon from the bluffs or the shore, (consult a tide-table before hiking the beach). Dawdle; daydream, watch ships come and go where water seemingly meets sky. Enjoy a Rip Van Winkle nap in a sheltered spot out of the salty breeze.
The scenery alone will sate your appetite for beauty but there’s more – there are interpretive signs featuring early explorations of the region and the Native Americans who lived on Ebey’s Prairie before settlers arrived. You can also hike from the bluffs to Sunnyside Cemetery, a pioneer burial ground, one of the most beautiful, poignant cemeteries we’ve ever visited.
Ebey’s Landing is not only protected by the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountain range it is also protected by land-management agencies including The Nature Conservancy, the United States Department of Fish and Wildlife, Washington State Parks. The reserve is also home to rare plants including golden paintbrush, a rare Indian paintbrush known to exist in only a few places. Be on the watch for gray whales, eagles and a variety of seabirds including harlequin ducks near Parego’s Lagoon.
We suggest hiking a 3.5-mile loop (our favorite) starting at the bluffs with views of Perego’s Lagoon, the Olympic Peninsula, the Straight of Juan de Fuca, even Mount Rainier on a clear day. The trail skirts the edge of lowland forest as it parallels the beach. From the bluff trail you can also enjoy a short, easy walk to the Sunnyside Cemetery (the junction is signed). Unless tides prohibit, don’t miss out on the beach-walk.
On our recent visit we noted that a couple of our favorite, wind-gnarled Douglas firs along the bluffs had fallen - no surprise given that such bluffs are prone to erosion in a silent, endless war between land and water. Past the lagoon you’ll come to a steep, obvious trail that drops down to the beach. Over the years feet have beaten shortcuts down to the beach; stay on the main trail - not only is it safer, it is gentler on the terrain.
There are several ways to hike the beach; if you’re agile you can dance along the driftwood, otherwise along the beach when tides are low or a trail that skirts the lagoon. Notice the different shapes of driftwood - let your imagination go and conjure fearsome or magical shapes cast up by the sea. Root-balls have floated from afar and come to rest at the edge of the lagoon – hikers often decorate these root monsters with stones and pretty shells.
On cloudy, rainy days it is often hard to tell where fog ends and water begins – in such conditions your other senses sharpen and you’ll hear the mournful wail of foghorns and the colors of rocks and seaweed will jump out at you in psychedelic shades. Don’t overlook the colorful views at your feet.
Though it was a spring day we didn’t see many wildflowers along the bluffs; however, the beach was another story presenting a kaleidoscope of seaweed, driftwood, kelp, pebbles and stones of every shape, size and color imaginable. We marveled at their intricate markings, some so smooth they felt polished others rough conglomerates glinting with minerals and agate striations. Other rocks were black as obsidian with a white blaze running through them like a bolt of lightning, no two alike. In contrast yellow coils of kelp glistened on the damp sand like ropes, knotted and twisted by eternal moon-pulled tides.
Since Time was fleeting we drove to the Sunnyside cemetery rather than hike the trail. Sunnyside is a pioneer cemetery dating back to the mid-1800s. Native American tribes lived on the prairie for thousands of years and established the burial ground. According to their custom, they usually interred their dead by burying them in chests or canoes up in trees but that custom was abandoned within a decade after white settlers arrived.
Headstones date back to the 1850s, including that of Isaac Ebey, an early settler. Ebey chose the prairie as a homestead for its beautiful setting overlooking Admiralty Inlet and the Olympic Mountains. During the Indian Wars of the 1850s, Ebey was killed by Haida Indians in retaliation for an ambush of their people by whites. The Haidas needed to kill a “white chief” to avenge their loss of one of their chiefs. The historic Davis Blockhouse can also be found at Sunnyside; one of many such structures built as a refuge in the event of attack.
Getting there from Mukilteo-Clinton ferry: take Highway 525 north -- it eventually becomes State Route 20. Continue through Coupeville on State Route 20 and take the first left after the pedestrian overpass onto Ebey Road. Continue straight – do not take the curve to the left. Go straight toward the water and as you approach the water the road descends right to trailhead parking and restroom. A Discover Pass is required.
To drive around from Seattle: go north on I-5 to Exit No. 230 (State Route 20), past Mount Vernon. Get off there, turn left at the stoplight and continue on SR 20 for about 15 miles. Near Anacortes turn left at the sign for “Oak Harbor, Whidbey Island, Deception Pass” and continue on SR 20 (about 20 miles). As you approach Coupeville turn right on Ebey Road – if you get to the overpass you’ve gone a bit too far.
Trail data: Ebeys Landing Loop, 3.5 miles, about 200 feet gain.
Additional information: For additional information visit the website for Washington State Parks at www.parks.wa.gov/ .
For additional human and natural history of the region here’s some interesting websites: The Nature Conservancy at http://nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/washington/preserves , the National Park Service at www.nps.gov/ebla/ , or Sunnyside Cemetery at www.sunnysidecemetary.org/ .
Karen Sykes
Thursday, April 4, 2013
Photographs to accompany Hike of the Week, Oyster Dome
Here is a link to my photographs of Oyster Dome - for unknown reasons I am not able to download photos onto this website. I think it is probably a lack of intelligence on my part, though. Meanwhile, here is the link. After getting onto Flickr click on the first set of photographs entitled "Hike of the Week".
Here is the link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/karenseyes/
Oyster Dome, Chuckanut Mountains, March 2013
OYSTER DOME (Chuckanut Mountains)
If I could count the number of times we’ve hiked to Oyster Dome in the Chuckanut Mountains it would be in the double digits. Though we especially relish hiking trails we haven’t hiked before this trail is an exception to my rule. There are reasons for frequent visits: you can hike the trail year-round, snow is seldom a concern and the views from Oyster Dome are terrific.
However, those in search of solitude might want to avoid the trail on a warm, sunny weekend or be prepared to share the sunny outcroppings with other hikers. On our recent visit we shared the sunny overlook with a cheerful family, including a 10 year old boy who still had enough energy to climb a nearby tree and perform acrobatics on the branches. As for us, we were ready for a rest!
If that’s not enough to whet your appetite for year-round scenery you can include a visit to the Tulip Festival at Roozengaarde in Skagit County (open April 1-April 30). On a sunny day there are not only daffodils and tulips to admire, there are also stunning views of Mount Baker.
The hike to Oyster Dome is about 5.7 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 1,800 feet. If you don’t want to work that hard you can instead hike up to Samish Overlook from the same trailhead – that’s only 4 miles round trip with 1,100 feet gain. At Samish Overlook you’ll enjoy views of Samish Bay and the Olympics on a clear day (bring a map to identify the islands). When there’s a stiff breeze this is also a take-off point for paragliders. Once aloft they look like giant butterflies in the sky.
The trailhead is off Chuckanut Drive (State Route 11) with parking along the road. The hike begins on the Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT) with a large rock marker displaying the PNT mileages between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Coast.
The trail starts off climbing in long switchbacks to a couple viewpoints of Samish Bay (one with a bench) before meeting the signed junction for Samish Overlook and Oyster Dome. Go right (uphill) to Samish Overlook or continue straight to Oyster Dome.
Though it was a little too early for wildflowers the flowering shrubs were beginning to unfurl their leaves and it was a pleasure to hike through this heady mix of evergreens, deciduous trees, shrubs and ferns in dappled light.
After gaining most of the elevation we negotiated a couple of minor creek crossings and muddy areas where balancing on rocks and slick roots required some agility and just plain luck. Hence we advise sturdy hiking boots; in spring consider gaiters as well. There are also a couple of steep stretches that require a bit of maneuvering but nothing that could be considered dangerous.
As the trail gradually ascends toward Oyster Dome you’ll pass large outcroppings interspersed through the forest and a small sign for the Ice Age Trail (left). Hikers familiar with the trail system sometimes descend a short distance to the boulder field known by some as the bat caves; do not enter the caves as they provide a habitation for bats. Plus, these are not actual caves but rather a large jumble of boulders. In short, it’s a good place to twist your ankle so exercise care.
Most trail junctions to Oyster Dome are signed though not far from Oyster Dome you’ll encounter an unsigned junction; here, stay left, head uphill. From there the main trail is easy to follow (you will also be encountering other hikers) though there are socially engineered side-paths that run hither and yon; none lead to better views.
After a short, steep climb the main trail opens out onto a long, broad rock outcropping with what could only be described as “sudden” views, the kind of views that make a first-time visitor exclaim “WOW!” Oyster Dome sits above the boulder field with plenty of sitting room, even on a busy day. Here enjoy unobstructed views of Samish Bay, the Olympics and an array of scattered islands. Keep away from the edge of the outcropping and keep track of your children and/or dogs.
Additional Information: The hike to Oyster Dome and Samish Overlook is 7.7 miles round trip with 2,300 feet gain. Samish Overlook by itself is 4 miles round trip with 1,100 feet gain. Oyster Dome by itself is about 5.7 miles round trip with roughly 1,800 feet gain.
Driving directions: From Seattle head north on I-5 and get off at exit 231 signed Chuckanut Drive, State Route 11. After negotiating two roundabouts continue west about 18 miles to the trailhead. Parking is limited to the left hand shoulder (don’t park where signs prohibit such). For additional information on visiting Roozengaarde visit their website: www.Tulips.com
Karen Sykes
Thursday, February 28, 2013
View, Boulder Garden Trail
Here is a photo of the Boulder Garden Trail, the approach to the Old Mount Si Trail. The snow is much higher on the mountain but the Boulder Garden Trail is beautiful in a different way.
Winter lace, Old Si Trail
Here, finally, is a photograph of our recent hike to Mount Si via the Old Big Si Trail
Old Big Si Trail, February 27, 2013
Mount Si via the Old Mount Si Trail (North Bend, Washington)
Maybe you need to be just a little bit nuts to hike up the Old Mount Si trail in wind, rain and snow. Or maybe you’re just trying to stay (or get) into shape. However, it’s not often you’ll find Mount Si as lonesome as it was Wednesday, February 27.
Whatever your motivation, whether its for exercise or solitude, winter is a great time to hike up this oft-crowded trail where you stretch your facial muscles saying “Howdy” to other hikers coming or going more than your legs. No matter which trail you take to the base of Mount Si, it’s about an 9-mile hike with 3,300 feet of elevation gain.
We parked at the Little Si trailhead, opting for the Old Si trail via the Boulder Garden Loop trail as that is a more scenic approach. We weren’t sure how far we’d get given marginal weather and more rain in the forecast so we started out agreeing to turn around when either of us were ready to do so. We’d both gone on runs the previous day so weren’t sure what kind of shape we’d find ourselves in so paced ourselves accordingly with a measured but steady pace.
The hike begins with a short, steep pitch directly from the parking lot – take advantage of a couple of thank-heavens views from mossy outcroppings of the upper Snoqualmie Valley and on a clear day, Rattlesnake Ledge. After that abrupt huff-and-puff the trail levels out for a bit to the east end of the Boulder Loop Trail (it is signed) where we turned right, uphill. This is a slightly gentler climb than from the west trailhead and scenic with mossy cottonwoods, sparkling-with-rain lichen festooned branches of shrubs on an old road turned trail.
You’ll pass moss-slathered cliffs, boulders and side-trails to mossy overlooks (try to avoid walking on the moss and keep in mind the rocks are slick on a wet day). For a challenge take the map/compass/GPS and see if you can find Foundation Rock before you turn off onto the (presently unsigned) trail hikers know as the Old Si Trail. Though it is not an official route you’ll recognize this site as climbers occasionally practice on the cliffs below (we spotted hardware). Watch turns, unsigned junctions and side-trails of which there are many.
You will need to watch for the turn (uphill, right) where the Old Mount Si Trail begins (as of this writing the trail was not signed). Find it about it at about 800 feet elevation the start of the Boulder Loop Trail.
Once on the Old Si Trail you’ll notice the steepness of the grade; pace yourself, it seldom relents. On a hot summer day with high humidity you might opt to give up hiking; we prefer hiking Si by either route in the fall, winter and spring.
The trail is easy to follow with a few, slippery stretches over rocks slimed with mud or wet vegetation. After one particularly steep stretch the trail relents a bit as it continues with well-defined switchbacks with a more reasonable pitch. There is even a short, level stretch on an old road before the trail spurts insanely upward again with shorter and steeper switchbacks.
Not far from the old road we began to hit short stretches of snow and mud. We’d brought traction devices with us so we were prepared. Indeed, we met one climber coming down who said he’d made it to Haystack Basin but that he had used traction devices further up the trail and also mentioned there were good steps to follow in the deeper snow above. We soon stopped to put on our traction devices for conditions we’d be facing.
Once we got to the unsigned junction where the Old Si Trail provides a link to the Mount Si trail the snow deepened quickly, almost enough to warrant snowshoes. This old stretch of the Old Si Trail is short and steep but it’s also one of the prettier sections, especially with trees and shrubs festooned with fresh snow, like walking into a Christmas card.
With an eye on time (you should keep an eye on time too!) we agreed to continue to at least the set of rocky steps below Haystack Basin. Given the conditions I stopped a little shy of the snow-encrusted rocks, my companion carried on a little further for a better view of Mount Si though it was late and cold enough she didn’t linger. Though she is agile and prepared for such conditions I watched her descend the rocky steps with my heart in my throat since we appeared to be the last people up there.
We made a quick descent; it took us about two hours from the rocky outcroppings to the Little Si trailhead. En route we’d only met one couple on the Boulder Garden Loop and there was only one other car at the trailhead. Though we’d scampered down quickly it was challenging to keep scampering; not because we were tired but because the scenery was so beautiful (there was not enough time for photography).
By the time reached North Bend the heavy rain arrived with darkness on its heels.
Getting there: To get there: From Seattle head east on I-90 and get off I-90 at Exit No. 32 signed 436th Avenue SE. Go left (over the interstate) and continue ½ mile to North Bend Way and turn left. Continue about ¼ of a mile (toward North Bend) and turn right onto Mount Si Road. Continue to the designated trailhead/parking lot (left) shortly after crossing the Middle Fork Snoqualmie River. A Discovery Pass is required for the Little Si Trailhead and the Mount Si trailhead.
Additional Information: Map Green Trails No. 206S (Side A) Mount Si Natural Resources Conservation Area (NRCA). The land management agency is DNR (Washington Department of Natural Resources). On my Green Trails map (2002) the trail is called the Old Big Si Trail. The hike is about 9 miles round trip (including mileages on the Little Si Trail/Boulder Garden Trail). An interesting read about Mount Si is the out-of-print “Guide to Mount Si” by Robert E. DeGraw. Though some of the trail numbers/road numbers may be out of date this book is the most-researched guide to Mount Si I’ve ever had the privilege to read and dream. For current trail/road conditions the most up-to-date resource is Washington Trails Association www.wta.org .
Karen Sykes
Thursday, January 31, 2013
Gold Creek Basin Snowshoe
GOLD CREEK BASIN SNOWSHOE
Gold Creek Pond and/or Gold Creek Trail (East of Snoqualmie Pass)
If you’re seeking an easy, scenic snowshoe tour Gold Creek Basin meets all those requirements and more. The shortest snowshoe (or cross-country ski tour) would be the 1-mile loop around Gold Creek Pond. Snowshoers wanting more of a work-out or solitude can go further up into the basin to Heli Pond or even the Gold Creek Trail. The scenic basin is bordered by Rampart Ridge, Chikamin Ridge and other Snoqualmie peaks.
Gold Creek Pond is especially popular on weekends as it is suitable for all ages, ranging from senior citizens to families with small children, some with dogs. If this is your first snowshoe or cross-country ski-trip the pond is ideal for a first-time snowshoe experience. You will need an early start (especially on a weekend) as this is a popular place and a Sno-Park permit to park at the trailhead. We enjoy Gold Pond year-round but there is always an air of festivity in winter.
From the trailhead/portable toilet go uphill onto the forest service road to the junction where a spur (left) leads to Gold Pond. Experienced snowshoers can bypass Gold Pond and continue on the forest service road to the Gold Creek trailhead past privately owned cabins – the Gold Creek trailhead is about ¾ mile from Gold Pond.
At the pond we snowshoed (counterclockwise) onto the path that borders Gold Pond (in summer the path is barrier-free). On a clear day take time to enjoy the views to the head of Gold Creek valley. Bring the map to identify the peaks that enclose the valley –Chikamin Peak, Alta Mountain and Snoqualmie Peak to mention a few. That bulky ridge that rises on the right-hand (east) side of the valley is Rampart Ridge.
Rather than completing the loop we left Gold Pond at the trail junction (1/4 mile from the Gold Pond trailhead) for the Gold Creek trail. This short spur connects back to the forest service road and passes several cabins and homes (foot traffic is OK). Before you get to the Gold Creek trailhead you’ll pass Heli’s Pond (left) with a scenic, curved bridge. The pond originally belonged to Burlington-Northern Railroad and later was purchased by private land-owners (it is public land today). The pond was named Heli’s Pond to honor a previous property owner. It makes a nice side-trip.
Past Heli’s Pond (about 3/4 mile from Gold Pond) you’ll come to the Gold Creek Trail at the end of the road (the sign may be buried so look for tracks where others have gone). In summer the trail crosses Gold Creek (a potentially hazardous crossing – no bridge) and strong hikers often continue on fading paths to Alaska or Joe Lake. The Gold Creek Trail also offers more opportunities for solitude; though this is a beautiful trail year-round it is not as visited as often as other trails along the I-90 corridor.
In winter most snowshoers turn around at the first avalanche chute where the Gold Creek Trail breaks out of the trees where you may see avalanche paths (in summer look for waterfalls tumbling down the cliffs of Rampart Ridge after the snow melts). The first avalanche chute is about a mile from the beginning of the Gold Creek trail and is a good turnaround.
Getting there: From Seattle take I-90 east over Snoqualmie Pass and get off at the Hyak-Gold Creek (Exit No. 54, about two miles from Snoqualmie Pass). Go left under I-90, turn right onto the Gold Creek frontage Road and in about a mile find parking near the end of the frontage road where it is gated. Do not park under I-90 – parking is prohibited there and you are apt to be towed. If there’s no room to park at the end of the frontage road turn around and drive back along the frontage road until you find one. A Sno-Park pass is required.
Additional information: The Gold Creek Pond (Trail No. 1250) is about a one-mile loop with minimal gain. From Gold Creek Pond it is about 3/4 mile further on the forest service road to the Gold Creek trailhead (Trail No. 1314) with little gain. Your mileage will depend on how far you venture up into Gold Creek Basin). Map: Green Trails No. 207 Snoqualmie Pass (trail and road numbers may not match older maps). If you are going beyond Gold Pond get an avalanche forecast before venturing beyond Gold Pond - visit the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center website at www.nwac.noaa.gov/ or call their Avalanche Information Hotline at 206-526-6677. For information on where to obtain a Sno-Park permit visit the Washington State Parks website at www.parks.wa.gov for trail conditions call the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest in North Bend at 425-888-1421.
Karen Sykes
Monday, December 31, 2012
Mount Washington, The Owl Spot
THE OWL SPOT (MOUNT WASHINGTON)
There are two types of snowshoers in the Pacific Northwest – those who are so enthusiastic about snowshoeing they put their snowshoes at the first sight of snow. Others, like us, consider snowshoes a tool only to be used when necessary and hold out until they are actually needed. You might be able to leave your snowshoes in the trunk of your car if the Owl Spot on the Mount Washington trail is your destination. On December 22 we bare-booted it to the Owl Spot though more snow has fallen since.
The trail to Mount Washington is the kind of trail you won’t know what the conditions are like until you get there. A look at the Green Trails map shows several routes to Mount Washington but getting to that summit is a steep, strenuous hike or snowshoe no matter how you approach it.
If you don’t want to work that hard consider what old-timers referred to (including Harvey Manning and The Mountaineers), the Owl Spot about 2.25 miles from the trailhead.
The Mountaineers dubbed this then-unobstructed viewpoint the Owl Spot in the 1970s/80s. Then, the organization offered “owl” hikes, trails that could be hiked in the summer after work. The Owl Spot hike provided enough exercise to “count” and the views from the Owl Spot (when Rattlesnake Mountain and North Bend first come into view) were well worth it as were the sunsets that often necessitated hiking back to the car by headlamp.
Though the trail to Mount Washington is not signed it’s hard to miss once you’re on the Iron Horse Trail. The hike begins at the trailhead (Olallie State Park) as a short path next to the restroom that climbs to a roadbed leading to the Iron Horse Trail; here, turn right. In a few hundred yards look for an obvious trail (left) that ducks into the forest; that’s the trail.
The trail is an old logging road and is rocky, especially near the beginning. Years ago some hikers claimed you could find a wrecked car hidden in the trees near the trailhead though we never found it. Hikers a little long in the tooth may also recall hearing about the legendary Dirty Harry, a gyppo logger who bludgeoned logging roads into the foothills (this road might have been one of Harry’s). When you hike or snowshoe this road (or other old roads near North Bend) picture Dirty Harry barreling down a rocky incline in a beat-up logging truck, brakes smoking, a crazy grin, a cigarette clenched in his teeth.
The road-trail (shown as a jeep track on old maps) climbs at a steady grade through the forest engineering a tricky route between cliff bands and overhangs. Our favorite time to go is in winter when icicles form on the cliffs that parallel the road-trail in places and make for good photography (don’t stand under the icicles, the reason should be obvious).
In about one mile you’ll come to a large overhanging cliff (right) that is akin to a cave. You can climb a short, rocky path into the cave as it provides a weather-proof spot for lunch or a break. Look to the ceiling for the glint of hardware climbers use to practice fancy climbing maneuvers. Near the entrance splotches of bright yellow and green lichen create Jackson Pollock-like splotches on the reddish boulders and be thankful graffiti-artists have not found this place. It is a cool and restful sanctuary on a hot, summer day and a refuge on wet days.
Past the cave the trail continues a steady climb through corridors of alders and evergreens; interspersed with cliff-bands often festooned with icicles in winter. En route you might notice a small hand-made sign with a directional sign for Mount Washington at about 1.5 miles though the way is obvious. There is no sign for the Owl Spot but you’ll know it when you see it.
The Owl Spot is where the trail curves around a rocky face with views of Rattlesnake Mountain, North Bend, Mount Si and its adjacent foothills. The view has shrunk over time as trees have grown taller but it still lives up to its name. The bench under the overhanging cliffs was buried in snow when we were there and most of the hikers had adopted snowshoes by then.
We hiked back the way we came but were not ready to go home. The skies had cleared and yearning for more views we drove further east on the frontage road to exits further east on I-90 though the best views of Mount Teneriffe and Si were between Tanner and North Bend on the frontage road.
Other options from Exit No. 38 include hiking, skiing or snowshoeing the Iron Horse trail in either direction. You can also reach Twin Falls by heading west (right) on the Iron Horse trail as well as Cedar Butte and Rattlesnake Lake (study the Green Trails map for details).
Getting there: From Seattle head east on I-90 and get off at Exit No. 38. Turn right after making the exit and then make another right turn at the spur to the trailhead signed “Olallie State Park”. Passenger cars may need to park along the road rather than the trailhead as the spur to the trailhead is steep and may not be plowed. If you do park along the road you can also walk up the gated road (a little above the road to the trailhead) and that will also take you to the Iron Horse Trail. Don’t forget your Discover Pass – it’s required.
Additional Information: The hike to the Owl Spot is 4.25 miles (round-trip) with 1,900 feet elevation gain. Refer to Green Trails Map No. 206S Mount Si NRCA, Side B for more detailed information and other options. .
Karen Sykes
Thursday, December 6, 2012
Talus Loop, Mount Si Natural ResourcesConservation Area
Usually when hikers talk about Mount Si that’s where they end up going. Mount Si is a great conditioner year-round except, perhaps, when trails get icy in winter. If navigating ice in winter isn’t your cup of hot cider, there are other options for hikers at the Mount Si Natural Resources Conservation Area, managed by the Washington Department of Natural Resources (DNR).
The Talus Loop trail is a sweet compromise between an easy hike and a strenuous work-out. Plus, the loop provides a measure of solitude for hikers who prefer solitude. If you are a genuine misanthrope you should be prepared to share the first stretch of the Mount Si trail with other hikers, runners and mountain climbers with weights in their pack as they train for loftier ambitions than Mount Si.
Display your Discover Pass at the Mount Si trailhead and start up the forested trail. You can start from the lower Talus Loop at .7 miles and climb to the upper end of the Talus Loop at 1.7 miles (where the trail meets the Mount Si trail). Both the upper and lower junctions of the Talus Loop are signed. That makes a nice loop.
We prefer starting from the upper trail junction at Snag Flats to make the loop and re-connect with the Mount Si trail at the lower junction on our way out. That way you’ve got the “up” out of the way and you can take your time heading down (or, if you’re feeling spunky you can continue to Mount Si). Take a field guide and take a look at the variety of moss and lichen on this trail (you don’t see as much on the regular trail).
The upper Talus Loop trail descends briefly to cross a small creek followed by a short easy climb through silent forest to the namesake of this trail; a large, open triangular-shaped talus field with views out to North Bend and nearby foothills. The talus field is the obvious spot for a break as it is usually in the sun until later in the day. It’s a pleasant place to stop any time of the year; on a sunny day the rocks are warm, even on a winter day (unless it’s raining). The trail has been engineered so there are several spots to “settle” for a while.
After the trail traverses the talus field it makes a series of long, descending switchbacks through the forest again where in late fall/early winter you’ll find a variety of mushrooms, fungi, lichen and moss. The trail crosses the bottom of the talus slope again where vine maples are taking root and in fall, providing fall-color displays.
Overall the trail has more of a natural feel/ambience as fewer hikers use the trail and less vegetation has been disturbed. You may experience a bit of culture shock when the lower end of the Talus Loop deposits you back onto the thronged Mount Si trail but by that time you’ll be just as cheery as the folks you meet coming and going.
To get there: From Seattle head east on I-90 and get off I-90 at Exit No. 32 signed 436th Avenue SE. Go left (over the interstate) and continue ½ mile to North Bend Way and turn left. Continue about ¼ of a mile (toward North Bend) and turn right onto Mount Si Road. Continue 2.5 miles to the designated trailhead/parking lot (left). A Discovery Pass is required.
Additional Information: The Talus Loop hike is 3.7 miles round-trip with 1,750 feet elevation gain. The suggested map is Green Trails No. 206S (Mount Si NRCA). For additional information on this trail and others in the Mount Si Natural Resources Conservation Area (Department of Natural Resources): www.dnr.wa.gov
Karen Sykes
Wednesday, October 31, 2012
Tipsoo Lake to Deer Creek Falls via the Eastside Trail
From Tipsoo Lake to Deer Creek Falls via the Eastside Trail (A hike with a car shuttle)
Do you like to gamble? Then roll the weather dice on this “iffy” one-way gorgeous hike that involves a car shuttle. If you can’t work out a car shuttle you can still enjoy the best of the high-country by hiking the short stretch of the Eastside trail from Deer Creek toward Chinook Pass (or vice versa) and turn around if/when you get into snow (be prepared for rain or snow with good boots, gaiters and trekking poles). We started at Tipsoo Lake just below Chinook Pass (you can hike this trail either way). WSDOT does it’s best to keep State Route 410 open through Thanksgiving though significant snow can cause an earlier closure. Be sure to check WSDOT for updates on mountain passes and carry chains in case weather changes. From November 1 through May 1 you are required to carry chains in your car in Mount Rainier National Park and use them where required.
Any hike that begins from Tipsoo Lake at Chinook Pass is going to be beautiful, with or without snow. Late fall is a poignant time to visit Tipsoo Lake whether you are just driving over Chinook Pass or planning a short hike. Here the seasons mingle; a couple weeks ago the vegetation was a swirl of Halloween colors sprinkled with the bold reds and crimsons of blueberry shrubs.
The Eastside Trail begins on the south side of State Route 410 across from the Tipsoo Lake parking area (below Chinook Pass). If there is too much snow to follow the trail from Chinook Pass unless you are familiar with the route you can also start at the Deer Creek trailhead on Highway 123 and continue as far as conditions/energy allow. There is no fixed date for the closure of Highway 123; however significant snowfall will close Highway 123 as well as Chinook Pass.
If you hike from Tipsoo Lake down to Deer Creek Falls it is 5.36 miles one-way with a short uphill stretch back to Highway 123 (if you have left a car at Highway 123); otherwise it will be uphill all the way back to Tipsoo Lake so budget time and energy accordingly.
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The most scenic route is to hike from Tipsoo Lake to the Deer Creek trailhead – a good reason to leave another car at the Deer Creek trailhead on Highway 123 so you can continue to Deer Creek Falls. Strong hikers can continue down to the new bridge overlooking Ohanapecosh Falls where we’d turned around on a long, summer day. Then we’d hiked from the Ohanapecosh Campground to Ohanapecosh Falls and back the way we came (the Ohanapecosh Campground is closed for the season).
Since our recent October hike snow has come and gone from Chinook Pass. On our hike (starting at Tipsoo Lake) it was cold enough that a recent dusting of snow covered the ground, not enough to obscure the trail. However if there is much snow or ice on the trail we recommend traction devices and trekking poles. You also might want to hike in rain-gear even if it’s not raining or snowing; in places the trail was narrow and we got thoroughly soaked by moisture-laden vegetation.
On a clear day there are good views of Mount Rainier and Governors Ridge just a few paces from the Tipsoo Lake trailhead. A short descent leads to a pretty tarn (5,185 feet) between the Tipsoo Lake trailhead and Highway 123 across from the Deer Creek trailhead. Paper-thin ice bordered the shoreline. Here, ancient flower stalks lie on the ground with pale, yellowed leaves adding a cheerful touch to the mostly black and white day.
Shortly past the tarn the trail continues its descent and comes out on Highway 123. Cross the highway to pick up the Deer Creek Trail and continue as far as energy and conditions warrant (the trail sign is not obvious from the highway). From this point the trail is mostly in the forest; the trail is steep but in good condition.
Watch for signs of wildlife – we saw elk tracks and where a bear had shredded the bark of a tree. We stopped to marvel at an enormous display of Chicken Of The Woods (Polyporus Sulphureus), fastened to a fallen tree (the red-orange fungus was growing all along the length of the tree).
At five miles we came to the bridge at Chinook Creek. The heavy fall rains had not yet arrived so the stream level was low and the waterfall modest. Stream levels will be rising rapidly given recent rainfall and the trickles we saw will likely be roaring cascades. From there with map in hand we followed trail signs back to Highway 123. The steepest stretch of the trail back to the car is just below the Deer Creek Falls trailhead. Please remember you hike at your own risk so do not rely on cell phones (there isn’t any cell phone reception outside of Greenwater on State Route 410).
To get to the Deer Creek trailhead: From Enumclaw drive east on State Route 410 to Cayuse Pass (the junction with Highway 123); turn right onto Highway 123. The trailhead is on the right side of Highway 123 about 4.5 miles from Cayuse Pass. To get to the Tipsoo Lake trailhead on State Route 410: Instead of turning onto Highway 123 at Cayuse Pass continue straight to the first trailhead parking for Tipsoo Lake (left). Walk across State Route 410 and find the marked Eastside Trail a few feet above the highway.
Statistics: The hike from Tipsoo Lake to Deer Creek Falls is 5.36 miles one-way (with a car shuttle). The elevation gain from Deer Creek Falls back to the Deer Creek Falls trailhead on Highway 123 is 440 feet elevation gain. If you start at Tipsoo Lake and hike down to Deer Creek Falls the elevation loss is 2,530 feet. The high point of the hike is Tipsoo Lake at 5,350 feet elevation.
Additional information: The recommended map is Green Trails No. 269S (Mount Rainier Wonderland). Chains are required from November 1 to May 1 inside Mount Rainier National Park. A Northwest Forest Pass is required at trailheads within the park. For road closures, weather and trail conditions call Mount Rainier National Park at 360-569-2211 or visit their website: www.nps.gov/mora/index.htm - you can also check road conditions by visiting the WSDOT website at: www.wsdot.com
Karen Sykes
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Mildred Point, Mount Rainier National Park
MILDRED POINT (MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK)
We’ve been like chipmunks dashing about on last-minute errands these last golden days of fall. Like them we are also driven by shorter days and a dwindling supply of high-country delights. We lose a little over three minutes of daylight a day this time of year so put a hike to Mildred Point on your calendar before winter sets in.
The Comet Falls trail used to be the most popular approach to Mildred Point but the Comet Falls trail is closed about 1.6 miles due to trail damage. Fortunately you can still hike to Mildred Point from Longmire by starting out on The Wonderland Trail. The trail system is well signed and the park has placed signs indicating where trails to Comet Falls/Van Trump Park are closed.
The Wonderland Trail at Longmire crosses the Nisqually-Paradise road in about ½ mile and begins to climb through the forest. The trail is in good condition, even a prehistoric stretch of puncheon that crosses a boggy area below the junction with the Rampart Ridge Trail.
At the next junction we left the Wonderland Trail, turning right onto the Van Trump Park trail which continues to Mildred Point. As we hiked bright-eyed Canadian jays (often called camp robbers – guess why!) darted from tree to tree, their eyes sparkling as they perched on trees above us in an obvious bid for hand-outs.
Eventually the forest transitions to parklands where fall is making a dramatic entrance as blueberry/huckleberry shrubs turn every hue of orange and red imaginable. We were surprised to see many gentians still in bloom in these quiet meadows where subalpine evergreens have quietly taken root as if to anchor the meadows in place.
At 4.5 miles we came to the last junction signed Van Trump Park, another Comet Falls trail closure sign and a second sign pointing toward Mildred Point. The trail crosses meadows as it makes its way toward Mildred Point but make no mistake, this is a steep trail. Take a break and look to the west for a view of Pyramid Peak.
Though few hikers visit Mildred Point the trail has been hiked often enough that the trail is deeply embedded in the meadow, in places a knee-high ditch which tempts hikers to hike beside the trail rather than in the ditch (this is never a good idea as over time hikers create a “new” trail to avoid the ditch).
That first view of Mount Rainier when it breaks out of the forest never fails to incite awe. Though there was no wind where we’d stopped to look at The Mountain we watched lenticular clouds racing toward the summit, like ships without captains.
The trail is out in the open and the last stretch is dusty and steep (carry plenty of water, this is a dry trail). If not for the haze from forest fires there are great views of Mount Adams and Mount Saint Helens to the south (we could barely make out Mount Adams through the haze).
The trail ends at the edge of an abrupt cliff where a sign warns hikers they’ve reached the end of the maintained trail (as if there could be any doubt). This is one of the most scenic vistas inside the park but don’t get too close to the edge. We were spellbound by a series of waterfalls plunging from the Kautz glacier – in such a setting it is hard to decide where to draw the line between creation and destruction as Mount Rainier goes about her geologic business.
You can explore a little further on game-trails that contour the ridge-top – we followed one through a few small, subalpine trees where we were startled by the sight of a mountain goat’s head peeking at us over the lip of the void. Before we could say “camera” he’d dropped out of sight. We spotted more goats in the distance as they traversed an almost vertical meadow.
Turnaround time always comes too soon and soon we were back in the forest, grateful for the occasional cool breeze that wafted our way.
Additional Information: the hike is 10 miles round trip with 3,750 feet elevation gain. For updates on fees, rules and regulations, current conditions, and weather, call Mount Rainier National Park (360-569-2211) or visit their website at www.nps.gov/mora/ . Map: Green Trails (Mount Rainier Wonderland Map 269S). .
Karen Sykes
Tuesday, August 28, 2012
Summerland, Mount Rainier National Park, August 26, 2012
Summerland (Mount Rainier National Park)
Summerland is one of the most popular hikes inside Mount Rainier National Park and suffice it to say you will know why this is a popular destination once you get there. Here are a few reasons of our reasons this hike is a favorite - first off, the views. For starters: views of the Fryingpan Glacier, the Emmons Glacier, Little Tahoma, Mount Rainier and Panhandle Gap. Add to that a herd of 30 (we counted) mountain goats and scads of wildflowers still blooming at Summerland – these are just a few delights you’ll experience on this trail.
Get an early start (the trailhead is not large enough to accommodate many vehicles). Also add an extra layer to your pack - it’s getting to be that time of the year when mornings are chilly though it will feel like summer as the day progresses.
The trail gets off to a mellow start as it climbs through sheltered forest the first couple of miles before coming to a switchback with a view of Fryingpan Creek where the creek drops through a gorge. A little further are more switchbacks with even better views of the creek. In the morning these switchbacks are usually in the sun and are good places to stop for a drink or a snack before continuing to Summerland. Next you’ll cross a couple of streams and as you approach Fryingpan Creek late-summer wildflowers make their appearance including fireweed, asters, mountain daisies and pearly everlasting.
After crossing Fryingpan Creek on a sturdy bridge with a railing the trail meanders through meadows that in late August are a purple haze of asters and fireweed before the trail commences its climb to Summerland on a series of steep switchbacks. There are still enough wildflower displays to stop you in your tracks, especially the closer you get to Summerland. Between pockets of forest the hillsides are covered with wildflowers. Between Fryingpan Creek and Summerland we saw lousewort, lupine, asters, mountain daisies, magenta paintbrush, bistort, valerian and we couldn’t help but notice the swirled leaves of hellebore were already threaded with strands of gold.
When you get to Summerland take time to check out the shelter; also an outdoor toilet (signed) is located uphill from the shelter should you need one. Hikers are not allowed to camp inside the shelter but it’s a great place to hang out if you’re backpacking and would prefer to prepare your meal under a roof rather than a dripping tarp.
Summerland is far enough for many hikers though strong hikers (or backpackers) can continue on to Panhandle Gap – even beyond. An ice axe or poles will come in handy if you are climbing to Panhandle Gap as there is still snow up there. Mornings are getting cold and that means the potential for hard, steep snow.
Though wildflowers are fading between Fryingpan Creek and Summerland from Summerland on up toward Panhandle Gap the wildflowers are still going strong, especially pink and yellow monkeyflowers.
If you don’t want to hike as far as Panhandle Gap another option is to continue on the trail until you come to two tarns below the gap (right) that are ideal for a turnaround or a leisurely lunch. Here there are even better views of Panhandle Gap (as of August 27 there was still a cornice at Panhandle Gap) as well as close-up views of wildflowers and the abstract shapes of melting ice in the tarns. The flowers at these higher elevations included Elmera, Tolmie’s saxifrage and Alpine buckwheat. Note that the flowers at these elevations are small and grow close to the ground, their adaptation to inclement weather.
At the higher tarn where we stopped to eat we were at first puzzled (then amazed) to spot a herd of mountain goats descending a snow-field toward the tarn just below “our” tarn. They were far enough away that at first we couldn’t figure out what we were seeing but when they got off the snow and onto the dark moraine we could see they were mountain goats. Seeing mountain goats is always a bonus but never have we seen so many. We extended our lunch time just for the pleasure of watching them before they headed back up the mountain.
On our way back to Summerland we noted views of the Emmons Glacier that we’d missed hiking up as the glacier was behind us then – the view was almost disquieting, the crevasses so close together that it was hard to tell where one ended and another began.
Just above Fryingpan Creek we met a hiker who said a bear had gotten into her backpack when she’d left the trail briefly for a “party separation”. Be extra vigilant when it comes to bears – if you venture off trail for any reason don’t set your pack down, take it with you (if you are camping hang your food).
We didn’t see the resident bear but just after crossing Fryingpan Creek we did see blue gentians beside the trail. We call gentians the “goodbye flower” because they herald the end of summer. While we enjoy these poignantly-beautiful flowers we don’t look forward to the end of another summer, especially after this summer got off to such a late start.
To get there: From the White River entrance of Mount Rainier National Park (via State Route 410) continue about three miles to the trailhead on the Sunrise Road – the trailhead is on the right-hand side just past the Fryingpan Creek road bridge. No facilities. A pass or a fee is required to enter the park – for details refer call 360-569-2211 (Park Headquarters) or 360-569-6575 (Park Information).
Additional Information: The hike to Summerland is 7.25 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 2,100 feet. Map: Green Trails No. 269S, Mount Rainier Wonderland. Add mileage and gain accordingly if you venture beyond Summerland.
Karen Sykes
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
Covel Creek Falls Trail No. 228, South Cascades
COVEL CREEK FALLS (Trail No. 228/228A - Gifford-Pinchot National Forest, South Cascades)
Any hiker who has hiked this trail will tell you it’s a spectacular hike but ask someone how to spell Covel Falls you might get different answers. Nobody seems to agree on how to spell “Covel” including land-management agencies. No matter: though the map, trail signs and hiking guides can’t seem to come to an agreement all peevishness will come to an end once you reach the waterfall. For that matter you can even refer to this waterfall as Curtain Falls or Phantom Falls, two other monikers for this 75-foot high waterfall.
Covel Creek is one three waterfalls in the Covel Creek drainage (Covel Creek drains into the Cispus River which then drains into the Cowlitz River). Covel Falls is the smallest of the three waterfalls. The other two waterfalls are Angel Falls and Bridal Veil Falls. Covel Creek Falls felt akin to Tunnel Creek Falls in the Columbia Gorge, another hike where the trail goes behind a waterfall.
We parked at the Cispus Learning Center in Randle and stopped in at their office to pick up a trail map which caused us some confusion finding the trail – plus, the trail is not as well-signed as it could be as several unmarked paths wind in and out of the grounds. Per the advice of a person in the office we started out on the 0.6-mile Braille Trail (Trail for the Blind), a unique, one-of-a-kind trail that enables those with impaired vision to experience the forest through touch and other senses.
The Braille Trail is not only interesting on its own; it is also the easiest place to find the trail to Covel Falls. Hike clockwise on the Braille Trail until you come to the “Forest Loop” sign. Walk up the broad, smooth trail to the left of the sign and continue to Covel Creek which you will cross on a footbridge. Past the creek the trail continues to climb at a moderate grade as the trail parallels the rambunctious creek and skirts several small waterfalls (some of those also seemed worthy of names).
After a mile or so you’ll come to a signed junction (1,800 feet) where the Covel Creek Falls (Trail No. 228A) continues (right) and the Burley Mountain (Trail No. 256) goes left and becomes part of the Angel Falls Loop (you can hike the loop in either direction from this junction).
We opted for Covel Creek Falls as that makes a scenic turnaround for hikers who don’t have time or energy for the loop. After a short drop the trail goes behind Covel Creek Falls – now you know why many call this waterfall Curtain Falls.
Some hikers decry the safety rope that parallels that stretch of the trail behind the falls as it detracts from the splendor of the waterfall but you might as well take advantage of the rope, it was put there for a reason by the Forest Service. Since spray from the waterfall can render the trail muddy and slick it is not a place you’d want to fall. From Covel Falls you can continue on the next stretch of trail which is quite steep to Angel Falls to complete the 4.5-mile loop or hike back to the Cispus Learning Center the way you came.
Since we didn’t have time to continue to Angel Falls we hiked back to the junction at 1,800 feet and hiked about a quarter of a mile of the trail (left) toward its junction with the Burley Mountain Trail (No. 256). Geologists as well as photographers will especially enjoy this stretch – it’s exciting and unique with vine maple reaching for the sky and growing wherever it can between tall, bulging cliffs tinted with different colors from lichen. Though the trail is narrow in spots it is not dangerous as long as you watch your step and avoid hiking under the cliffs in winter when there is some danger of falling chunks of ice or rocks. The cliffs have eroded in such a way that caves have formed under the rock where the cliffs overhang the trail.
Though we didn’t have time to finish the loop (we had other commitments) we can attest after looking at photographs of Angel Falls that it would be worth your time to do so, especially if you are camping or lodging in/near Randle. If so you should have plenty of time to complete the Angel Falls loop. The Angel Falls loop is 4.5 miles round trip – the high point being Angel Falls at 1,950 feet.
Getting there: From Randle on US 12 head south to State Route 131(Forest Service Road No. 25) for about one mile then turn left onto Forest Service Road No. 23. Continue about 10 miles then turn right onto Forest Service Road No. 28. In less than a mile turn right onto Forest Service Road No. 76 to the Cispus Learning Center.
For additional information call Gifford Pinchot National Forest (Cowlitz Ranger District Station at 360-497-1100). The map is Green Trails No. 333 (McCoy Peak).
Karen Sykes
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